Lemmand

Apologies for the paint problem. This is an issue that far too many people have with the solid red Mercedes paint, as @MuffinClaw pointed out. Surprisingly, the micro-blistering doesn't impact the vast majority of automobiles, but when it does, it seems to harm every single metal panel. If I were in your shoes, I'd try to get Mercedes-Benz to pay for a complete bare metal respray first. If they disagree, you'll have to make up your own mind about whether or not to accept their offer. I would next file a complaint with the Motor Ombudsman and hope for a positive resolution. The legal process is expected to be lengthy and expensive, as Mercedes-Benz UK is known for fiercely fighting accusations. I hope that won't be the case. Wishing you the best of success with your claim. Please keep us updated on its progress.

The hue, tell me? A cranberry?

Bearings, flex discs, link arms, bushes, mountings, and the like are all possibilities.

😁

If not, are the tires on your A35 flat? They can be extremely harsh when bumping into potholes or bumps, depending on the brand.

If you slide the strut dust cover down, you should be able to see the Transit Pucks in the suspension if MB is anything like VW Group. The blue component is the MK8 Golf. Their absence during PDI is not unheard of.

While your vehicle may not have been equipped with a dipstick, there are web vendors that offer them for your reassurance. It is essential to ensure that you have the correct one, as lengths differ. It is accessible as a workshop component; nevertheless, most dealers choose not to offer them to the public.

I would choose for 17-inch tires with standard specifications.

Therefore, it is the rear quarter panel, not the back window? In that instance, it may arise from the same problem.

I replace the ZHM fluid in my R129s biennially, to the best of my ability. With the roof retracted and the reservoir at maximum capacity, remove the spare wheel and unscrew the filler cap. Utilise a syringe to extract as much fluid as feasible, then replenish to the level mark, which should be at maximum with the roof down and all rams fully compressed. Alternatively, record the level prior to extraction and refill to the same level. A complete fluid change is never performed; but, by conducting this maintenance biennially, I encountered no issues with the roof hydraulics over the seven years and 150,000 miles of my previous SL. I acquired my current vehicle in August 2025 and will undertake the initial fluid change this summer to assess its condition. I was informed when acquiring my first SL that frequent fluid changes and consistent usage were the optimal methods to maintain the roof hydraulics in excellent condition. During my seven years of ownership, the hardtop was scarcely affixed to my vehicle; I utilised the car daily and maintained the roof in a retracted position almost every day, except during inclement weather. I even operated it with the roof down in winter conditions, provided the ambient temperature did not fall below 8 degrees Celsius, as stipulated in the manual to prevent damage to the plastic windows of the soft top.

I cannot provide commentary on the R231; but, regarding the R129, when removing the door card, one may find multiple precise adjustments for the window glass position, including vertical (up/down), horizontal (back/forward), and tilt (in/out) at each clamp securing the glass's lower edge to the window regulator mechanism. If not secured enough, the glass may become misaligned; conversely, if clamped excessively, it could fracture. The method is intricate and complex, hence it is prudent to seek assistance from an experienced individual. However, if you have already attempted to reset the closed position by pressing the keys for several seconds without success, the issue may be mechanical rather than electrical. The door glass should not impact the rear window unless water is splashing from the side window at high speed. Do the panel gaps in the various portions of your vario roof appear correct? Could an extraneous object have infiltrated the seals, creating a gap? My initial R129 was somewhat of a misfit, having approximately 13 prior owners; nonetheless, it was inexpensive, and I was unperturbed by the modifications made by previous individuals. The current vehicle I possess is a pristine, low-mileage, and unaltered model, which I aim to maintain in its original condition. It may be advisable to consult an individual with extensive knowledge of the model; in their absence, it could be worthwhile to visit the SL Shop.

I believe the CLs appear impressive and can be acquired at a low cost. It is essential to acknowledge that you are purchasing a vehicle that originally retailed for approximately $100,000; hence, all associated parts and servicing will correspond to that initial cost, rendering them expensive. I would seek a vehicle with few previous owners, an extensive service history, and simply relish the experience. I am confident it will elicit considerable joy while engaging in activities outside.

Perhaps not...

Did you detach the battery from the vehicle during the charging process?

https://www.google.com/search?q=E53+Estate+front+wheels+crabbing&client=firefox-b-d&hs=tTKU&sca_esv=8c6b6505ed11823e&sxsrf=AE3TifNoLhCc6b4yM27h_R-OP0V0-yP0mg%3A1766006239296&udm=50&fbs=AIIjpHxU7SXXniUZfeShr2fp4giZ1Y6MJ25_tmWITc7uy4KIeioyp3OhN11EY0n5qfq-zENwnGygERInUV_0g0XKeHGJ35CkzpVQYwFB9KL4yeoFMuVkzomaiWy-uSg4Gwhcn7EqzkQ_i_VRHt5MJwrPNK6I21MhKiUF-lUqvmUcZsX3NHnCGDxDUrKqmiVby4lMewkFBfj8Z3XaZwAB_i8QjdePZqgLKQ&aep=1&ntc=1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiy2MH0xcWRAxUOWkEAHUJ2GSIQ2J8OegQIExAE&biw=1354&bih=790&dpr=1.67&mstk=AUtExfB-9Dxspck_d5CFUZcn7fUEfS566lR9KREY0LOhfBDtW5fnbdAYj4PQhxhqSs0qRwT9kc-Pw55gNukhqiDwk3DfR_zAspAD8bHRKN2OMb88w-VpROur18cY_HrjkYwSmCzqJkY0F1fi2qCo4X1kKsN2gmYUnLOBvrA&csuir=1&mtid=4h1Daf3bKqCGhbIPhZyTUQ

😁

🫠

Consult the guidebook for the cluster display, which should provide the necessary information. Alternatively, as previously mentioned, a photograph would be beneficial.

This platform is free to use, and your post was made less than 24 hours ago. Individuals provide responses here at their convenience and leisure. Increased activity on the forum would reveal that numerous users are consistently engaging with others and offering precise and prompt assistance on various concerns. Your assertion that "few if any want to contribute or help" is intriguing, as a brief review of your posts reveals that they predominantly solicit assistance without any indication of your own contributions.

The forum is highly active. Do you believe that such a comment is more likely to elicit assistance?

I also owned a CLK; the trunk lock is infamous for accumulating debris over time. It is essential to use WD40 and a quality lubricant annually to maintain its functionality.

A C350e owners club exists here. They may be capable of providing assistance.

I suppose that the interior is what maintains the cohesion of the underbelly!

Some main dealers provide discounts to club members. I primarily utilise Autodoc for non-urgent items, while I source filters and other engine-related components, such as water pumps and pulleys, from the main dealer.

Have you extracted yours already? I understand that it is a challenging task on a W140, hence my inquiry. I believe it would be prudent to examine yours initially to ensure accuracy, as the LHD version I have observed is entirely dissimilar in the arrangement of the pipes and coils on the side. If that is unsuccessful, you will likely need to manipulate the pipes to achieve the desired orientation. Not an unfeasible task.