Mututing

Do you possess a towbar?

Thank you; the swap has already been checked and is not the issue. The infotainment system lacks electricity; but, after removing and reinserting the fuse, it resumes operation, allowing me to toggle it on and off using the power switch.

Greetings to everybody! Occasionally, my radio-satellite navigation equipment fails to activate. After I interrupt a circuit (by removing and reinserting the fuse or disconnecting the battery for charging), functionality is restored; but, after a few days of use, the issue reoccurs. Has anybody had a similar issue? What may be defective and need replacement?

Thank you. Are there any indicators, apart from a chilly rattle, that suggest a chain is deteriorating?

Hello everyone, I just acquired a 2012 320d with 100,000 miles and want to go on a vacation throughout Europe in the next weeks, covering around 4,000 kilometres. Whenever I research the 320ds, particularly the N47 model, I encounter discussions on the timing chain issue. I am contemplating if it is advisable to address this concern before to my purchase or whether it is overstated.

I own a glass roof in my Honda CR-V, and some companies declined to provide insurance; nevertheless, mine (Admiral) did so without any complications. It is reportedly a costly replacement, however all Honda 'EX' models of the CR-V come equipped with this glass roof as standard. This was the first time I encountered this problem.

The only regulatory restriction seems to be 1.5mm; nevertheless, by that point, it is too late to operate the vehicle. I think it is an implicit guideline that most garages will alert you when the brake pads go below 3mm. In my situation, they would have secured the work anyway, since the garage next is far more economical than the Kia dealer, and, as I said, it would not result in the vehicle being out of service. I have no objection to the needed task. It is only the situation. If I had been driving even average mileage, it would not have survived until this MOT, and I may be facing rotor damage as well. In response to your comment on Advisories, if they maintain it at 1.5mm, they will undoubtedly secure the job, since it becomes undriveable.

I have owned the automobile from its purchase. I also acquired a three-year service package deal from the only Kia agent on the island. They are unable to provide a reduced MOT fee. The distance is a 50-mile round trip, and my local garage is adjacent. No issues requiring care were identified at the most recent service, which occurred within a week of the previous MOT. It is scheduled for its fourth service next week, and I will have a brief discussion with the manager to enquire whether he has encountered this issue before. In my previous post, I expressed my confusion at the MOT Tester’s failure to provide an advise last year, despite the fact that just 4,500 miles had elapsed, which may have averted my car's unavailability during the most severe weather week we have seen in some time.

It seems I will be relying on my own two feet for the week. It was quite unexpected that my 2021 Kia Sportage 1.6 AWD T-GDI did not pass its MOT. The mileage is 24,000 miles. Rear brake pads are less than 1.5mm. Refrain from driving. I was quite irritated with the MOT Tester. It was the same individual as the previous year. I would want to understand the reason for not receiving an Advisory last year (3mm). I find it hard to comprehend that it has decreased from almost 3mm to below 1.5mm in less than 4500 kilometres. Had I been aware, I could have arranged for their replacement at my leisure, so preventing the automobile from being out of service. I found it quite peculiar that the rear brakes had deteriorated more rapidly than the front ones. This has never occurred to me before. He was excessively occupied to attend the Reception. I must stop doing handbrake turns. 😂 Could Forum Members elucidate the reasons behind the accelerated wear of the rear brakes compared to the front brakes? Is it a characteristic of the model? The granddaughter is displeased about having to go home from school in the wind and rain.

I have no objection to paying £80 for two upgrades; it is much more convenient for the vehicle to do the updates autonomously rather than for me to manually download them.

I own a 2023 Sorento and I was required to do a manual upgrade, which thereafter activates the OTA.

Group strap? The starter motor may be defective.

A such incident occurred before as well. It became inoperative, and the recovery technician was unable to restart it. The vehicle was transported to the prior dealership, where it started upon inspection. They were unable to ascertain the defect since they did not do a test drive and concluded that a throttle body replacement was necessary based on diagnostics. This did not resolve the issue, and the same problem recurred. Uncertain if the second dealership can provide an appropriate diagnostic. I have informed them of all the predictions about several possibilities, including issues with the auxiliary battery, starting motor, and battery alternator. Only God comprehends the issue at hand.

Regrettably, the vehicle has halted once again. The battery jumpstart was ineffective. It fails to initiate regardless of the circumstances. The incident occurred when the auto start-stop feature was engaged. Strangely, the automobile started operation the next morning. However, I had over my limit by that time, so I arranged for it to be hauled to another dealership.

That is impressive. I will complete it tomorrow throughout the day.

I retrieved my automobile from the dealership and disabled the auto stop-start feature, subsequently driving for an hour in congested urban and freeway traffic. The vehicle did not experience a single stall. I now have a strong suspicion about a problem with the auxiliary battery that operates the stop-start feature. Enquiring if this feature may be permanently deactivated. This deactivating option is only accessible on new Defender models, as discovered on YouTube.

That is beneficial; thank you! The dealership is denying reimbursement of $3,000 for the prior repair, claiming that they resolved the fault identified during diagnostics at that time. I have obtained quotations from independent technicians for the starter motor, which are clearly less than half the prices indicated by the dealer. I have rejected the dealer's diagnosis and requested a second assessment, which I must get independently. I will retrieve my automobile later.

I own a 2018 RR Sport HDV 6 HSE (225KW) that I have owned from its factory release. Five weeks ago, I saw that after halting at a crossroads or traffic signal, the engine refused to restart when releasing the brake and would just switch off. I have to reset the start button to activate it. It occurred sporadically, and in two instances, it failed to initiate despite pressing the start button, only commencing after many tries. I scheduled the diagnostics for the following day; however, the vehicle stuck at a congested intersection that same day and would not restart. It was necessary to tow it to the dealership. There were no issues in the dashboard code. The technician identified a throttle body issue based on an error code I did not see while the vehicle was in my possession. Although I was doubtful of this diagnosis, believing it to be an auxiliary battery problem impacting the auto shut-down and restart functionality, I ultimately spent $3,000 to have it fixed. After two weeks, the vehicle began to exhibit the same issue as before. Upon application of the brakes, the engine will shut down automatically as anticipated; nevertheless, it fails to restart when the brakes are released. This occurrence was becoming more regular, prompting me to return the vehicle to the dealership. They have recommended acquiring a new starter motor, relay, and doing retesting. I am really dubious about this diagnosis. They are once again billing me over $3,000 for this matter. I am aware that a non-dealer technician may replace the starter motor at a lower cost; yet, I remain unconvinced that this is the true issue. Do you have any ideas or suggestions?

Greetings everyone, I am experiencing an occasional problem with my MK5 Mondeo. Intermittent juddering, irregular idling, and engine stalling under load; often occurring shortly after a warm start, accompanied by the appearance of the spanner symbol on the dashboard, along with a "see manual" warning. Subsequent to the problem, the engine restarts without problems, and there is no engine management light on. The vehicle is undergoing a seat belt repair, and I requested about diagnostics concurrently. Quoted £132 for diagnostics. It seems quite costly to connect a device. I want opinions on how to do this more economically. Can a local garage read the same diagnostic codes as a large dealer? I downloaded Forscan onto a laptop when my MK3 had problems, but I never used it. Any insights or recommendations would be appreciated. 👍

Marginally tardy... Heads was B14. We will shortly ascertain. 🤣

The B14s are reportedly adjustable from both resellers and the official site; nonetheless, I first believed otherwise, though I cannot recall the source or rationale for that belief. I want to toss a coin about B14's or BC and thereafter report on their quality, dependability, and usability for everyday usage in poorly maintained road conditions. This information may assist others facing similar dilemmas in making informed decisions.

It is unfortunate to hear, since they seemed to be the more secure choice. I suppose I will have to make an uncertain choice between them or the BC Racing options.

Bilstein is subpar. What is the reason?

Greetings, everyone! My springs and shocks are deteriorated, and I want to repair them shortly. I have also recognised that this may be an opportune moment to upgrade, since I wish to reduce body roll and slightly lower the ride height. The problem is in my inability to ascertain if it is a detrimental concept. Despite doing some research, my confusion just intensifies with each further inquiry. Primarily due to my daily use of this vehicle and the genuinely deplorable road conditions in my vicinity, I frequently encounter extensive poorly constructed speed bumps with excessively steep and abrupt inclines, as well as substantial potholes that are unavoidable, necessitating a reduction to a crawl. Consequently, the recent wear on my springs and shocks has been particularly vexing, as I must navigate these obstacles slowly to prevent scraping the undertray, rendering me slower than other drivers encountering the same adverse conditions. The initial intention was to get the BC Racing BR RA coilover kit and maintain it at maximum ride height, which would still be over an inch lower than the factory setting and is expected to be of great quality. However, it was later noted that this setup may be too rigid for regions with many speed bumps and potholes. I have more confidence in the Bilstein B14 coilover kit, however my understanding of its performance is limited to forum discussions. I have the same uncertainty with the BC Racing coilover about their suitability for the bumps and potholes in my vicinity. I have seen many individuals reference H&R springs in conjunction with Koni shocks; but, after experiencing a friend's 3 Series with that configuration, I found it unsatisfactory, leading to a prompt replacement. While this may be an isolated incident, it has deterred me from using them myself. Am I too concerned about the views of random commentators, and are the BC Racing and Bilstein alternatives acceptable if I maintain mild dampening and a high ride height for regular driving? If not, should I settle for a simple replacement rather than an upgrade, or are there other choices available? Thank you for your attention!