Mututing

That is impressive. I will complete it tomorrow throughout the day.

I retrieved my automobile from the dealership and disabled the auto stop-start feature, subsequently driving for an hour in congested urban and freeway traffic. The vehicle did not experience a single stall. I now have a strong suspicion about a problem with the auxiliary battery that operates the stop-start feature. Enquiring if this feature may be permanently deactivated. This deactivating option is only accessible on new Defender models, as discovered on YouTube.

That is beneficial; thank you! The dealership is denying reimbursement of $3,000 for the prior repair, claiming that they resolved the fault identified during diagnostics at that time. I have obtained quotations from independent technicians for the starter motor, which are clearly less than half the prices indicated by the dealer. I have rejected the dealer's diagnosis and requested a second assessment, which I must get independently. I will retrieve my automobile later.

I own a 2018 RR Sport HDV 6 HSE (225KW) that I have owned from its factory release. Five weeks ago, I saw that after halting at a crossroads or traffic signal, the engine refused to restart when releasing the brake and would just switch off. I have to reset the start button to activate it. It occurred sporadically, and in two instances, it failed to initiate despite pressing the start button, only commencing after many tries. I scheduled the diagnostics for the following day; however, the vehicle stuck at a congested intersection that same day and would not restart. It was necessary to tow it to the dealership. There were no issues in the dashboard code. The technician identified a throttle body issue based on an error code I did not see while the vehicle was in my possession. Although I was doubtful of this diagnosis, believing it to be an auxiliary battery problem impacting the auto shut-down and restart functionality, I ultimately spent $3,000 to have it fixed. After two weeks, the vehicle began to exhibit the same issue as before. Upon application of the brakes, the engine will shut down automatically as anticipated; nevertheless, it fails to restart when the brakes are released. This occurrence was becoming more regular, prompting me to return the vehicle to the dealership. They have recommended acquiring a new starter motor, relay, and doing retesting. I am really dubious about this diagnosis. They are once again billing me over $3,000 for this matter. I am aware that a non-dealer technician may replace the starter motor at a lower cost; yet, I remain unconvinced that this is the true issue. Do you have any ideas or suggestions?

Greetings everyone, I am experiencing an occasional problem with my MK5 Mondeo. Intermittent juddering, irregular idling, and engine stalling under load; often occurring shortly after a warm start, accompanied by the appearance of the spanner symbol on the dashboard, along with a "see manual" warning. Subsequent to the problem, the engine restarts without problems, and there is no engine management light on. The vehicle is undergoing a seat belt repair, and I requested about diagnostics concurrently. Quoted £132 for diagnostics. It seems quite costly to connect a device. I want opinions on how to do this more economically. Can a local garage read the same diagnostic codes as a large dealer? I downloaded Forscan onto a laptop when my MK3 had problems, but I never used it. Any insights or recommendations would be appreciated. 👍

Marginally tardy... Heads was B14. We will shortly ascertain. 🤣

The B14s are reportedly adjustable from both resellers and the official site; nonetheless, I first believed otherwise, though I cannot recall the source or rationale for that belief. I want to toss a coin about B14's or BC and thereafter report on their quality, dependability, and usability for everyday usage in poorly maintained road conditions. This information may assist others facing similar dilemmas in making informed decisions.

It is unfortunate to hear, since they seemed to be the more secure choice. I suppose I will have to make an uncertain choice between them or the BC Racing options.

Bilstein is subpar. What is the reason?

Greetings, everyone! My springs and shocks are deteriorated, and I want to repair them shortly. I have also recognised that this may be an opportune moment to upgrade, since I wish to reduce body roll and slightly lower the ride height. The problem is in my inability to ascertain if it is a detrimental concept. Despite doing some research, my confusion just intensifies with each further inquiry. Primarily due to my daily use of this vehicle and the genuinely deplorable road conditions in my vicinity, I frequently encounter extensive poorly constructed speed bumps with excessively steep and abrupt inclines, as well as substantial potholes that are unavoidable, necessitating a reduction to a crawl. Consequently, the recent wear on my springs and shocks has been particularly vexing, as I must navigate these obstacles slowly to prevent scraping the undertray, rendering me slower than other drivers encountering the same adverse conditions. The initial intention was to get the BC Racing BR RA coilover kit and maintain it at maximum ride height, which would still be over an inch lower than the factory setting and is expected to be of great quality. However, it was later noted that this setup may be too rigid for regions with many speed bumps and potholes. I have more confidence in the Bilstein B14 coilover kit, however my understanding of its performance is limited to forum discussions. I have the same uncertainty with the BC Racing coilover about their suitability for the bumps and potholes in my vicinity. I have seen many individuals reference H&R springs in conjunction with Koni shocks; but, after experiencing a friend's 3 Series with that configuration, I found it unsatisfactory, leading to a prompt replacement. While this may be an isolated incident, it has deterred me from using them myself. Am I too concerned about the views of random commentators, and are the BC Racing and Bilstein alternatives acceptable if I maintain mild dampening and a high ride height for regular driving? If not, should I settle for a simple replacement rather than an upgrade, or are there other choices available? Thank you for your attention!

I have just driven a 2023 992 Turbo S at its maximum speed, and I must say, it is a really powerful and impressive vehicle.

The 204, as we both know, is vast, whether it is a c180 or a c63.

Indeed, it accurately retrieved exactly what I had predicted to a buddy. The video was well done, however I was somewhat surprised by the language used for the clk!

Indeed,... In the photograph shown, it is evident that the two wires inside the connection have been detached. Consequently, my father skillfully soldered the two wires onto the pins, incurring no financial expense. Upon reaching the parents, I found that the injector was there and just required the wires to be connected. I have obtained a magnifying lens and I am ready to examine the colours of the wires on the original loom. I do not have any jokes or distractions to divert my attention. I observed them nevertheless. The colours mentioned are dark green and dark brown. The colours are dark brown and black. I inspected the remaining injectors to ensure their proper functioning, as suggested by one of the individuals mentioned before. Therefore. The colours green and brown have been or are now located on the passenger side of an automobile in the UK. The colours brown and black are located on the driver's side. The car successfully started on the first attempt and is now running smoothly and evenly. There are no leaks. Everything is satisfactory. However, in my opinion, that is an unfavourable proposition coming from a prestigious vehicle manufacturer. The black death refers to the diesel fuel contamination that occurs when it seeps through the copper seal. The coat becomes stuck and obstructs the flow of electricity down the wires to the socket. I expected that they would have installed a fuel-resistant protective covering around the wires. However, everything is currently in a satisfactory state. Thank you everyone for your assistance once again. Hopefully, this information proves beneficial to someone. However, please be cautious of the wires as they tend to get fragile. Wishing you a safe and enjoyable journey. Thank you.

However, the wires on our plug have become detached and are too short to be reattached by soldering. As a temporary solution, two wires have been soldered to the pins of the plug, without following any specific colour coding. Now, when I reconnect the plug to the injector, I am uncertain about which wire should be connected to which wire on the cable loom (referred to as the wires that are supposed to be connected to the plug). I have not personally seen the automobile; all of my knowledge is derived from my father's accounts. I will be descending tomorrow, and hopefully everything will go well. In order to ensure that I am able to make updates, I will need to do certain actions. Thank you everyone / mate.

Hello,Bitxx . I obtained an image of the plug from the internet.

Hello,Bitxx . I obtained an image of the plug from the internet.

Thank you for your kind words, dodipops. The cables will be color-coded. If I recall well, the interior of the plug consists of two spade-like connections that attach to the injector. The plug itself has a D-shaped configuration. However, the wires on the plug are damaged. Therefore, I would want to know which wire corresponds to either side of the plug. Will it make a difference if I connect the wires to the plug in any orientation? Thank you, dodipops and everyone else. I will communicate with you once more.

Greetings, everyone. I hope that everything is going well. May I request a little amount of assistance, please? While removing injector number 2 from the W211 e220cdi, the wire on the plug itself snapped. Is it feasible to modify the wiring for injector number 2? Is it possible to fix or solder it back into the plug? Any assistance would be much appreciated. Thank you very much.

I just had my item repaired and received it back just yesterday. The housing of the thermostat had developed a fracture. I had seen a gradual loss of coolant, but a few weeks ago, when I encountered a significant pothole that caused a tyre to break, the coolant leaking intensified significantly. In only 10 miles, the coolant level dropped from full to the bottom of the expansion tank.

Ensure that you also obtain compensation for the decrease in value, since it is a serious issue for automobiles of this kind.

Indeed, I am uncertain about the impact of mileage on vehicles that are driven on the left side vs the right side of the road.

In my opinion, the additional problems in the second generation are related to the magnetic ride control system and the occurrence of misting in the tail lights. I am uncertain whether the AC Compressor is also a problem with Gen 2. Is my understanding accurate?