MagicPod

Observed this object today while walking the dog. I have resided in the region for over 20 years and have never observed it before. Although it appears rather deteriorated externally, the interior was unexpectedly well-preserved. One can envision its aesthetic appeal with sufficient time and unlimited financial resources.

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🙂

If the vehicle operates normally under moderate acceleration but fails to downshift when the accelerator is fully depressed, it suggests that the kickdown mechanism is malfunctioning or the gearbox is unresponsive to the kickdown command. If this is your initial automobile, to clarify its operation, you must fully depress the pedal to prompt a downshift when desired. The accelerator switch should inform the gearbox control unit that a lower gear is required to accelerate beyond the typical leisurely or efficiency settings employed by most vehicles. If the detection is erroneous, the downshift will not occur, and you will proceed at the more leisurely rate you have described. To verify this, locate a level road or freeway and drive at approximately 40 mph, which should indicate that you are in the highest gear. Subsequently, press your foot into the carpet and monitor whether the revolutions increase. If the revolutions do not increase, it indicates that the kickdown is not being sensed, likely due to a malfunctioning accelerator switch. An increase in revolutions while maintaining a slow speed indicates a worn clutch pack or a failure of the gearbox to respond to the downshift request, suggesting either an internal gearbox defect or an issue with the gearbox control module. There is no need for concern regarding over-revving; the primary ECU is equipped with a rev limiter that will prevent this occurrence. However, it may appear somewhat loud if you typically operate around 2500 RPM. My Venga increases by approximately 1500 RPM when I accelerate aggressively and emits a sound indicative of engine distress; yet, it has functioned adequately throughout my 20,000 miles of usage thus far. Ensure that the oil level is enough, as using an engine at high RPMs with insufficient oil might cause harm. I believe that a main dealer or reputable garage equipped with diagnostic tools should be capable of detecting the operation of the kick-down switch and/or manually altering the gearbox on a workshop ramp to assist in identifying the issue. However, you will require a garage equipped with a sophisticated diagnostic tool, rather than a basic ELM327 OBD reader from eBay; it must be capable of communicating with all modules, not solely the engine ECU. Since it is a 2019 model, it is likely still under Kia warranty, making the main dealer a suitable initial point of contact. However, you will likely require a proximate road to demonstrate to them, as they will almost surely refuse to address issues on roads exhibiting this defect and therefore impose a diagnostic cost for a non-warranty claim.

The identical issue as this individual, although he has not responded with a solution.

Thank you for your response. The water was certainly not deep enough to reach the inlet, therefore I am 99% confident that it is not hydrolocked. The ECU in these vehicles is located underneath and may have had water damage or have compromised wiring beneath it.

Greetings to all. I am enquiring if anyone is able to assist me. I possess a 2017 Mercedes C63S, and the other evening, under inclement weather, I undertook a two-hour journey. After traversing several shallow rain puddles, I suddenly saw a red battery warning on my dashboard, accompanied by a significant decrease in vehicle power as I entered the freeway. I drive over to the side and turn off the truck. The vehicle failed to initiate or start once more. Upon returning home and recovering, I charged the battery, but it has made no impact. All the lights and other components appear to be functioning properly, yet the engine fails to start. I am seeing several warnings on the dashboard. Traction control nonfunctional, electronic rear axle differential lock inoperative, etc. I conducted a cursory examination and obtained several codes. U010031 There is a fault in the communication with the "combustion engine" control unit. The signal is absent. U010029 indicates a problem in communication with the "combustion engine" control unit. An incorrect signal exists. Has anyone experienced something analogous? Assistance is valued.

Ah! The potency of language! Few individuals engage with the news today, believing that the headlines alone suffice for their informational requirements. Large corporations invest substantial sums in sophisticated legal counsel to draft extensive terms and conditions, often spanning many foolscap pages, to safeguard the company against prospective litigation that might incur millions in costs. Consumer rights often lack clarity regarding customer expectations from business proprietors, and in disputes, few individuals possess the financial resources to confront corporate solicitors and insurance. KIA and Bluelink exemplify the extent to which they will safeguard their corporate interests, as evidenced by a thorough examination of the complete Terms and Conditions. It is undoubtedly more expedient to scroll to the conclusion and simply select the ‘Accept’ button, as I presume the majority of users do.😁

Indeed, they do not; otherwise, they would lack purpose. In a Diesel Particulate Filter, accumulated soot is incinerated during DPF regeneration, initiated when soot concentrations exceed permissible limits. This procedure involves elevating the exhaust gas temperature to about 500-600°C to transform the soot into minimal quantities of ash and gas. Soot remains contained if it is functioning correctly.

The modified component pertained to the 2.0 Red Top Engine. The Estates were obviously manufactured; my grandfather had a bogie green model that succumbed to rust after five years.

I appreciate it. 😀

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167802061576?_skw=cavalier+redtop&itmmeta=01K5VXP7P8PBAW96VYT2S9A6QR&hash=item2711c84308:g:scoAAeSwctBozRb2&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ckJzFzAaKgrk86K9aXuP2SrBKOeKmwCEBqw+6/kcMw5EI+y563ikY1N5LXBNZefb9e2/MuX+4YV3hEyR5emxR3/pGfCrBKfDICEVmgaEraToXtxjBm93RWjJbmzvvvVw7pVkZ+eGAbYzVjkO1Hvrl9p0jZhZD+1Wv4uPUYd26N050J8VFtigZTcfSsDXtXAZka7fzNbI88bOygJBvGZMz5kbUx/Oty0Tb93Ko0GnH2aW3VxQgQpaOLZfmcpQqi+b0=|tkp:Bk9SR7D72P2uZg&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X1278f5a45538517d4105669ca6e073f7&subId2=15

The dealership will provide a single spring, tailored to the VIN of your vehicle and unique to the installed extras of your individual automobile. It is often advisable to replace the rubber pad concurrently, given the little expense, while you are already engaged in the task. As previously said, it is often advisable to replace springs in pairs; however, if the failed spring is relatively fresh and its malfunction is attributed to an incident such as traversing a pothole, and the other spring is still in satisfactory condition, you may choose to replace just the defective spring. If the defective spring is under one year old and you possess a receipt, you may file a warranty claim, provided it was not damaged due to a pothole or similar circumstances. Regarding aftermarket options, I recommend Bilstein or another respected brand; however, please note that they are more generic and do not serve as precise replacements for your original springs. Consequently, it would be advisable to get a pair, since they are sometimes supplied only in pairs.

Thank you very much; both options precisely align with the pricing provided by BMW, indicating they are suitable choices. Thank you once again.

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I attempted that, and they responded with this 😂

Thank you; I will attempt it immediately

Greetings everyone, I want to replace the gearbox and differential oil in my 2015 B47 118D, manual 6-speed transmission. I want to ascertain the oils required for both. Thank you.

Did you purchase it new? To the untrained eye, something appears somewhat improvised.

You initiated it! 😁

For your knowledge, there exists a poorly described function that is beneficial. If your vehicle is equipped with a Cruise Control button on the steering wheel (I have yet to encounter an EV3), accelerate to your desired speed and then push and hold the button to activate the Speed Limiter at that speed. In contrast to Cruise Control, the Speed Limiter remains engaged unless deactivated by a brief button push, paused, or the vehicle is turned off.