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If your vehicle resembles other Kias, there should be a steering wheel button that controls Lane Keep Assist and Lane Follow Assist, shown as a car between two lines.(perhaps left-hand buttons). Momentary push buttons Activating and deactivating Lane Follow Assist requires a simple toggle, whereas a prolonged push toggles Lane Keep Assist.

Access Settings and go to Apps on your Android smartphone. Choose the KIA Connect application and its details. An [Update] option should be shown there.

Indeed, it seems to be just Android. I verified my status after version 2.1.22, and it is absent.

It resembles any automobile. If it has not been maintained, then go. Numerous options exist, making it easy to locate a suitable example. If there are aftermarket modifications, I would personally avoid it; but, it does not imply it is a poor vehicle or owner. Numerous modifications are made by enthusiasts who are passionate about their vehicles; yet, once altered, it becomes more difficult to evaluate them objectively.

The 4 series has a broader chassis with a reduced centre of gravity. The 3 Series is more sportier; yet, it is considerably more forgiving, allowing me to navigate a turn at 60 mph, while the 1 Series we previously had would need a reduction to 45 or 50 mph. My mother has a 4 Series electric vehicle with remarkable acceleration. I personally see the rear vision as inadequate; yet, the vehicle is generally commendable.

I replaced mine at 186,000 miles (2009 E90 320d), and it was at the threshold. I have completed an additional 20,000, although my use is diminishing since I mostly work from home. This is my second 3 Series, and I am extremely delighted with it. The first vehicle (2004) was a business automobile that I purchased upon my departure from the firm. I purchased the current vehicle when it was five years old, with 45,000 miles on the odometer. Examine the service intervals; many individuals adhere to condition-based maintenance but allow their vehicles to operate 1,000 to 2,000 miles above the recommended limits. If you want to retain it for an extended period, disregard the condition-based maintenance and do an oil change at a minimum of every 10,000 miles (I conduct mine every 6,000 miles).

Examine the coolant level to see if a leak exists. I purchased a pressure tester, however the neck of the pressure cap on the Mini is deep. Unlike a radiator cap, the pressure tester was unable to exert sufficient pressure to effectively identify any leaks.

Several films on this topic are available on YouTube, focussing on the bulkhead located to the right of the engine, as seen from the driver's seat.

I have searched extensively for the power button on the radio. Is it really a matter of muting it with the steering wheel, or is there a dedicated on/off button?

Hello, I am disassembling my engine to replace the head gasket due to coolant contamination in the oil. Discovered a freeze plug next to the timing chain? Is there anybody who can identify the origin of this?

While there may not be a definitive answer, I have always ensured that I install software updates for both the engine electronic control unit (ECU) and the gearbox control unit (TCU) as they become available, with the exception of the 'Dieselgate' scandal. Brooklands, the dealer, invoiced me £60 for this particular service.

Inspect the wiring of the fan controller at the controller side to see whether there is any corrosion present.

There is apparent sparking occurring on at least 3 cylinders of the left hand bank. I have not attempted to start the engine several times, but I need assistance from another person to turn the key while I inspect both sides of the engine. I will endeavour to get video footage of my current observations, but unfortunately, this will not be possible until a few weeks from now, since I will be on vacation starting tomorrow. It is a fly-by-wire (FBW) system, but I also tested it when cranking and there was no wide open throttle (WOT) occurrence at that time. It might be a misleading clue, so I will not prioritise it. If I were able to briefly operate it by injecting gasoline directly into the intake ports using a syringe, that would be a notable achievement. However, the engine just produces backfires instead. Although I acknowledge that my technique is not particularly scientific, I believed it was worth attempting.

The tank was emptied before to storage and only high-quality, newly-purchased gasoline was utilised.

Prior to being stored, the automobile was functioning well. I apologise for any misunderstanding about the chain. Although it seems to be in excellent condition, it is undoubtedly the original. I possess absolute certainty that I am the only one who has conducted an examination of the engine, including the removal of injectors and rail, intake manifold, throttle actuator, rocker covers, and other components. Upon inspecting the engine last night, I saw that with the intake manifold removed and the Throttle actuator attached, the throttle does not open beyond around 15% even when the accelerator is completely pushed. The mechanism is not obstructed and can be manually moved without any difficulty. However, it seems to be malfunctioning, indicating a need to inspect the signal being sent to it. Additionally, testing the throttle position sensor is advisable, despite the absence of any error messages on the STAR system.

The camshaft and crankshaft timing are perfectly aligned, ensuring that there are no issues with the valves coming into contact with the pistons or any compression difficulties. The electronic timing is significantly inaccurate, causing the spark to be delivered to the cylinders at an incorrect moment. I will thoroughly investigate the wiring to see if there are any issues and conduct a continuity test on all components. The vehicle was stored, but, there is no indication of any rodent-related damage present, even under the dashboard.

I own a STAR diagnostic tool, which is now indicating the absence of any engine codes. I have attempted to use three different crank sensors and have tested each one on another m113, all of which functioned well. I have even removed the CPS connector to see whether STAR detects it, and it does, so I cannot identify that as the problem. As you said, the essential components for starting an engine are spark, gasoline, air, and proper compression. However, in the case of my automobile, if I can see sparks from the intake ports, it indicates that the timing is incorrect. I will capture a video and upload it for you to see the same visual experience as mine. Thank you for your contribution. 👍

The vehicle has been stationary for a few years and is now unresponsive when attempting to start it. Three of the original injectors were experiencing leakage, therefore I have replaced all of them with new Bosch injectors. I have also performed the same action with all of the typical suspects. The engine emits intermittent bursts of exhaust and ignition failure, but fails to operate. I have inspected the exhaust system for any obstructions, and it seems to be in proper working condition. I own a STAR diagnostic tool which indicates that there are no error codes for the engine, and the drive access is now displaying "start enabled". There are no apparent problems with the wiring, such as damage caused by rodents or water. However, I have not yet tested the continuity of all the cables and connections of the electronic control unit (ECU). I am enquiring if the electronic control unit (ECU) has been compromised in any way. Thank you once again for your valuable contribution. 👍

Thank you and I completely agree. The coil LT connectors/loom can only be installed in one certain orientation on the m113, hence it is unlikely that they may have been the origin of the issue. Given the precise static time, it is perplexing how the coils manage to transmit their electrical charge to the spark plugs while the intake valves are open. I am attempting to get a pin out diagram for the electronic control unit (ECU) in order to do a comprehensive assessment of the wiring for any potential problems. I had previously performed a comparable task on my 94 SL600 by completely rewiring the engine, however it seems that the task at hand is somewhat easy to do. Perhaps I am searching in the incorrect locations. 😁👍

Greetings, gentlemen. I am experiencing a failure to start with my 1998 SL500, which has 65,000 miles on it. I would appreciate any insights or suggestions you may have on this issue. First, let's provide some contextual information on the issue. The engine is functioning well, as shown by the ignition system producing a strong spark, the fuel pressure measuring at 55psi, and the compression levels of all cylinders averaging at 185psi. The IRRC is functioning well and DAS2b is shown as being in a start-enabled state on STAR. The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) is indicating that it is functioning properly and there are no error codes detected. The automobile is equipped with recently installed components including a new crank position sensor, cam sensor, fuel pump relay, spark plugs, fuel injectors, fuel pump, and filter. All components are either genuine Mercedes Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) parts or Bosch parts. Thorough inspection of the coil packs on my 2004 M112 350sl revealed no problems. Since the automobile did not come equipped with an Aux air pump from the manufacturer, I can safely rule it out as a potential cause. I have conducted an examination to identify any potential hoover leaks, and I can confirm that none are currently detected. The car's backfiring has caused significant damage to the original intake manifold, resulting in its physical explosion due to the ignition of unburnt gasoline inside it. After removing the manifold, I can easily see the presence of a spark while revving the engine and examining the intake port. The cam timing has been verified and found to be precisely set at 40 degrees, in accordance with the specified specifications, while using the locking tool. The engine has remained intact till I inspected the timing in order to rule out any inept craftsmanship. The timing chain seems to be in pristine condition and is properly tensioned. The crank sensor trigger ring seems to be in excellent condition based on my observation. I am having difficulty understanding how to visually see a discernible spark via the intake valves while the crank is in motion. How can the timing be so inaccurate? Is it probable that the problem is related to the ECU? Does anybody have any suggestions for doing ECU testing? Sorry for the long message, but I am having difficulty with this issue. Greetings

Resembles synthetic leather, also known as pleather.

If you want to determine the optimal shift locations with precision, the most straightforward approach would be activating Dynamic Mode in your vehicle, selecting the Automatic gearbox setting, accelerating vigorously, and observing the computer-controlled shifts. The computer is programmed to optimise the optimal shift spots in each gear during Wide Open Throttle (WOT).

https://xseries-forum.com/forum/index.php/board,8.0.html

Have you explored this website? It has several X owners and a wealth of valuable information.

The price for my previous F31 330d xDrive was £30 per litre. I chose to go with BMW since there were too many factors to consider.