SushySosa

Contemplate the potential cost reduction; it would be delightful to hear of such savings.

That appears to be a rather costly repair or enhancement. I was also surprised that pin 10 was not powered by default, even with non-genuine wiring kits.

I received my wiring kit today (MZ178DX), and it is functioning properly. The trailer is acknowledged, and the towing mode is engaged. Pin 10 is now powered as anticipated.

I conducted independent research on various model-specific 13-pin towing wire kits and obtained information from ECS Electronics indicating that their kit MZ178DX is compatible with towing mode. The specified version is intended for left-hand drive (LHD), while MZ17813U is designated for right-hand drive (RHD) models. I am currently awaiting the installation of the kit and will share my experience here in two weeks.

Hello, I am considering installing a towing bar on my CX-60 and would like to know if it is feasible to activate the towing mode using a non-genuine Mazda towing bar and wiring kit. I comprehend that towing mode is selectable when the trailer is electrically attached. Does the installation of genuine towing require activation through software as well? What is the mechanism behind the detection process?

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The original poster seems rather exasperated due to issues with his vehicle. DPFs function well when all associated components operate properly. That is the problem!

Why would you inform the vehicle that it has a fresh DPF while using a DPF that is 400% blocked?

If you purchased a sensor for 15 pounds on eBay, then best of luck. My experience with merc sensors. Purchase non-genuine items, and you will be repeating the task. The Gen Merc sensor weighs 80 pounds. An faulty differential pressure sensor will generate its own error code. Faulty differential pressure sensor out of range.

One should direct compressed air into the pipe leading to the DPF and the DPF cleaning. A malfunctioning sensor will result in a sensor fault. Upon replacing the sensor, it is necessary to recalibrate it using your diagnostic tools. Merely deleting the error code will be inadequate.

I'm old-school and like to see a car before putting down a penny. That said, I did ring Kismis Transport about a listing. Very polite and transparent on the phone, explained how their refund system works if the car turns up and isn’t as advertised. That kind of policy gives me a bit more faith, sounds like they stand behind what they sell.

I’ve just seen a Skoda Karoq SE L listed by Calkill Transport on eBay. The price looked suspiciously low so I nearly skipped it then I came across this thread, after reading everyone’s experiences here I think I’ll give them a call. Cheers to everyone for sharing, you’ve probably helped a lot of people out.

I suppose it is only one screw. Disconnect the electrical connection and attach it to the new motor. Ensure you get the appropriate replacement motor type.

The assistance provided is subpar; Hyundai has a very poor community.

I previously drove a VW Passat in the same manner, without using the pedal or paddle shifters; the ride was very smooth, and acceleration was effortless (140 kW, 190 HP, 2.0 diesel engine). No, I did not engage the paddle shifters. The Hyundai gearbox seems to lack the sophistication and smoothness of the Volkswagen DSG.

Recently purchased a new 2024 1.6-liter petrol hybrid variant equipped with an automatic transmission. During rapid acceleration, the engine rpm increase without the vehicle changing gears. I perceive a loud noise emanating from the engine. It seems as if the automobile will remain in the same gear indefinitely. The vehicle swaps gears only when I remove my foot from the pedal. This is rather frustrating as it disrupts my driving smoothness; I must constantly lift my foot to adjust gears. Ecological mode. Should I contact the dealer about this issue?

It will be rather challenging if I ever need to replace the bulb.

The festoon bulb is standard; however, the lens is not detachable as indicated in the manual. The whole assembly requires some effort to remove, causing the wire connection to fall into the hollow. The wiring may be accessed via the panel for the 12-volt battery. The bulb was functional, so I am uncertain as to why it did not operate; nonetheless, the issue has been resolved today.

After three years of ownership of my 2020 Niro PHEV, I have only learnt that there is a light in the baggage area, however I have never seen it illuminated. It is said to activate when the tailboard is opened; are there any more requirements, or is that all? How can I determine if it is a replacement bulb or an LED that requires dealer intervention under warranty? Thank you in advance

I disagree with the statement. I have transported three individuals in the rear seats for a duration of two hours, and all of them endured the journey without harm. Having two individuals seated in the rear is OK, unless they possess a considerable height. In my opinion, the main concern is the limited storage capacity in the vehicle if you have a family of four. For longer holidays or travels, you would need to rely on the roof rack to accommodate all your belongings.

https://www.biggred.co.uk/catalogue/brm-master-cylinder-kits

I would personally undertake the task of refurbishing it, since it is not a difficult endeavour. As said before, biggred may own the item or information that you want.

In fact, I believe that due to the naturally aspirated engine, the power only becomes significant at higher RPMs. Therefore, this approach encourages reaching the maximum engine speed before changing gears, especially when the objective is to achieve rapid acceleration. Although I have yet to use launch control on my vehicle, I believe it will enable each gear to reach the maximum engine speed before changing. Personally, I use little pressure on the accelerator while shifting into 1st gear, and I avoid using excessive force when accelerating after making a bend. I have no desire to be included in a video that showcases the failure of Cars n Coffee events.LOL (laugh out loud): I will shift into 2nd gear and rev the engine to 6-7k RPM. I refrain from pushing my automobile to its maximum speed.

I also replaced the tailboard struts. This task, like many others, could be completed much more quickly if one were to do it again. It is peculiar that despite owning many high-quality vehicles, including a new 911 Turbo via our company, I find myself really enthusiastic about driving the Mercedes. Even my wife, who owns a Tiguan, likes the Mercedes for lengthy trips, which we have taken on several occasions. Dogs also like it. Despite being over 17 years old, the vehicle operates flawlessly. I like the convenience of being able to repair it in my own workshop, saving both time and money compared to bringing it to a professional.

I am uncertain about the exact origin of the black smoke initially. My first hypothesis was that the PCV valve had malfunctioned, leading to oil being expelled into the turbocharger. This assumption was based on the presence of oil surrounding the turbocharger intake. However, when inspecting the PCV valve, I found it to be in good condition. Possibly, the fuel pressure sensor may have resulted in excessive fuel supply, leading to the emission of black smoke, which then caused the malfunction of the oxygen (O2) sensor. Perhaps the malfunctioning air inlet batwing component was causing the Engine Control Unit (ECU) to get abnormal readings from the Mass Airflow (MAF) sensors, resulting in excessive fuel injection. I am uncertain, but it is now functioning well. I am astonished by the substantial and sturdy sensation of this vehicle. It is really remarkable. I invested £500 on the automobile, mostly for the purpose of replacing or already replaced components. The PCV valve was likely the original part.