Ledgerciao

Indeed, it is capable of doing that, but the crucial inquiry is to the velocity at which it transitions into 7th gear. Specifically, does this occur when the vehicle reaches a speed of 70 miles per hour?

One may argue that if both vehicles use the same odometer, then this would not impact the disparity, since the precision or imprecision in the mileage measurement will remain consistent. Regarding the statement "metres fuel more accurately," it is indeed true, but it is not the only deciding factor. While the pump itself may be precise, the process of calculating whether a tank is completely filled may introduce inaccuracies.

I am uncertain about the precision of the onboard computer's computation of miles per gallon (mpg). Similarly, I am unconvinced that the accuracy of the 'brim-to-brim' method has been definitively established. Is the filing station and the pump the same? Was the nozzle placed in a consistent manner and activated simultaneously? Undoubtedly, the ambient temperature might also have an impact. Allow me to explain that I am not asserting with certainty which of the two approaches - onboard computer or brim-tothebrim - is more dependable. My point is simply that I fail to comprehend why individuals presume that brim-to-brim is a precise gauge. EDIT: I will search on Google to see whether anybody has conducted an experiment to establish it...

If the low fuel usage problem arose subsequent to the Dieselgate software upgrade, then pursuing other explanations may be futile. Furthermore, does your vehicle own an automatic gearbox? Based on my comprehension, the update is responsible for forcing the gearbox to change gears at faster engine revolutions compared to its previous behaviour. This alteration may account for the subpar fuel efficiency. Does the automobile engage its highest gear (7th) while maintaining a speed of 70mph?

Has somebody left the ESL unit in an unsecured state? Although my steering has not malfunctioned so far, I am contemplating if it is advantageous to only unlock the steering using the key, detach the battery, unhook the Electronic Steering Lock (ESL), and substitute it with a programmed emulation. The option to reconnect the Electronic Steering Lock (ESL) is available to prevent a small penalty for a malfunctioning steering lock during the MOT test. I am capable of fabricating a patch lead to facilitate the process of reconnecting. Due to its bistable nature, the ESL remains securely unlocked even in the absence of electricity.

Upon reading this topic, I saw the need of inspecting my backup key. Although I have no personal experience with it, I am curious about the current status of the battery. However, I am certain that the primary key is still there on the original battery as well, which is rather remarkable considering its age of 10 years.

OP, it is not uncommon for a Mercedes-Benz (MB) to render its own battery useless within a very short period of time, often ranging from 3 to 5 years. However, because your vehicle does not have a stop/start feature, it would be advisable to thoroughly examine the charging system and investigate the possibility of a parasitic drain before investing in a new battery.

The establishment of AGM dates back to the 1980s. The primary purpose is military use.

It seems to be a typographical error. Have you checked the licence plates using the MOT checker?

Have you threaded the camera cable through the tailboard wiring harness?

M156 https://www.pistonheads.com/news/mercedes/c63-black-series-the-perfect-road-car/25975

Other opinions??????????🫠

Is it necessary to programme the accelerator pedal sensor when it is installed, or may I use a different service provider for this repair?

Perhaps it would be advisable to reach out and inform them about the issue after the recall. Perhaps you have already done so...

C0242 - Signal Range/Performance Issue with Engine Torque Request Potential factors: Malfunctioning Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) The harness is either open or shorted. Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) Faulty electrical connection in the circuit Malfunctioning Engine Control Unit (ECU).

It would have been interesting to provide the precise error code(s).

What specific kind of problems are you referring to? Can you provide more precise details?

I agree that acquiring the collection would have required a substantial amount of money. Fortunately, the wait time is not extensive.

I purchased a Mercedes E350 Bluetec Cabriolet from Mercland a few months ago after my CLS55 was completely destroyed. I really like it. The V6 engine exhibits seamless performance and enough torque, allowing for impressive acceleration. I conducted a test on an E220 vehicle, and the results were really unsatisfactory. Underpowered and lacking in torque, the four-cylinder engine is unrefined and lacks power. Winter driving with the convertible top down is enjoyable thanks to the Airscarf, Aircap, and heated seats. Experience driving one and assess your preference.

Without intending any disrespect, I must clarify that we are discussing air conditioning systems in automobiles that are over 15 years old. These systems differ significantly from domestic air conditioning units in that the ones you mentioned operate on electricity, while car air conditioning systems are mechanically driven by a ribbed auxiliary belt that powers a compressor. I am uncertain about your mention of mirrors in this discussion as well. Typically, mirrors are integrated seamlessly into the doors, ensuring a consistent and dependable reflection independent of the ignition status or any potential electrical or software malfunctions. Unless one wants to record ongoing events, cameras serve as a solution to a non-existent issue (except blindspot reversing cameras).

Expressing gratitude. It is somewhat frustrating when people suggest that refilling the gas tank is a simple solution to a low gas level. In reality, addressing this issue involves more complexity. Additionally, when dealing with a malfunctioning system, it is crucial to replace the seals and dryer, as well as remove any condensation. Although the original condenser may have appeared to be in acceptable condition, it had broken brackets and a leak at one of the pipe joints. Therefore, it was advisable to invest appro Furthermore, we replaced the filter/drier simultaneously, since they are often overlooked. I was particularly concerned about the air conditioning system since the previous owner did not use the vehicle during winter and always drove with the convertible top down, which led him to claim ignorance about any issues with the air conditioning. My specific concern is that some rear window demist bars are not functioning properly. The situation is rather satisfactory. However, by maintaining low humidity in the cabin via the use of the air conditioning system, we can prevent the rear windows from fogging up. After considering the option of replacing the rear glass, I came across some alarming accounts of exorbitant expenses and the potential risk of damaging the folding roof if the alignment is disturbed. Consequently, I concluded that it would be wise to avoid pursuing this course of action. I just like to get pleasure from the object, without concern for minor imperfections such as stone chips on the paint or a little scratch on the rear offside corner of the bumper, which is only a superficial abrasion on the paint. If the object were too flawless, I would constantly postpone driving it out of fear of potential harm. However, the severely damaged windscreen caught me off guard. The extent of the damage is so severe that it poses a risk of eventually causing the entire glass to crack. Currently, the damage is located just below the front driver's wiper blade, so it does not obstruct my view from the driver's seat. However, from the outside, it appears as a shiny piece of tin foil adhered to the window. Now, let me provide a matter of interest. MB provided a quotation of £242 including VAT for an authentic replacement. I have seen aftermarket alternatives being sold for a price of £400. It is difficult to comprehend.

To enhance the efficiency of an air conditioning system, it is necessary to lower the evaporation temperature, also known as the boiling point, of the refrigerant. In order to do this, it is necessary to create a vacuum in the system before introducing the new liquid. This vacuum is commonly achieved by applying a negative pressure of 2 bar. An benefit of performing this action is that during the interval between air extraction and system charge, the pressure may be monitored, and any subsequent rise would indicate the presence of a leak. Mere injection of more Freon would not suffice; it must be introduced into a system operating at a pressure lower than atmospheric. The issue with DIY top-up kits is in their lack of a pump for extracting air, resulting in insufficient pressure loss. Consequently, in a pressurised system, the refrigerant boils at a higher temperature, leading to reduced efficiency. The "mercedes specialist" who inspected my system failed to detect any leaks, despite having the car in their possession for an extended period of over a month. The second garage, while thorough in their examination of each component and replacement of various parts, did not possess the required equipment to create a vacuum. Although my system initially functioned, the excessive pressure on the high side rendered further gas injection ineffective. The air conditioning was not enough lowering the temperature to prevent the cabin from becoming foggy. Regardless, the task has been completed successfully on the third attempt. With the exception of a little stone chip in the glass, which occurred less than 10 minutes later.

It had already been accomplished. I consulted a third mechanic, who specialised in electrical systems and was familiar with the second mechanic. After I expressed my concern about the lack of cooling despite the installation of various new components (including the replacement of all O rings and a new condenser/drier unit), the third mechanic demonstrated the refrigerant levels to me. It should be noted that diagnosing the issue was challenging due to the outside temperature being -3 degrees Celsius. It was discovered that despite adding refrigerant, the usage of a do-it-yourself container prevented the removal of sufficient air pressure. As a result, the refrigerant had difficulty evaporating and removing heat effectively. Furthermore, it seemed that the vent flaps were not properly synchronised.

Indeed, I must assert that the current temperature is really low, precisely in the desired location. Charming and frigid 🥶 Nevertheless, only a short distance after feeling a sense of relief that everything was functioning well and unexpected costs were no longer a concern, a BMW M3 abruptly passed by and abruptly merged in front, attempting to outperform an AMG. As a result, a loud cracking sound ensued. Irreparable stone chip. I have scheduled an appointment for a replacement screen via my insurance. If they claim to provide a like-for-like replacement, they must deliver on that promise. I am becoming more frustrated with the need to rectify errors made by automotive repair shops. The depression itself has a diameter similar to that of a 5p coin, but the fractures extend to the breadth of a 20p coin. In August, I purchased a car which subsequently underwent repairs in three different workshops for a total of 2½ months. The second workshop had to address hazardous problems caused by the first workshop. I have only driven the car approximately 12 times. During this time, I have spent £4k on replacing various components such as the water pump, radiator, air conditioning parts, coolant pipes, brake callipers, brake hoses, tyres, gearbox oil, filters, pan, differential lubricant, underseal, and the air pump for the pneumatic seat cushions. Additionally, the desired features include inside seat trim, parking sensors, and the task of polishing the headlight covers. Now it will undergo replacement with a new windscreen. This is the reincarnation of Trigger's Broom. However, at a quicker pace.

I am now experiencing an unconventional issue with my air conditioning system. The temperature was dropping significantly on the passenger side (right hand drive, UK standard), while remaining just mildly warm on the driver's side. There are several and diverse explanations provided for this often reported issue. Some individuals argue that insufficient refrigerant results in cooling just one side of the automobile, while others attribute it to misalignment of the stepper motors responsible for controlling the flaps. Now I have successfully implemented a partial solution. The make and type of my vehicle is a 2005 CLK350 SPORT. To readjust the flaps, simultaneously press and hold the FRONT window demist and recirculation buttons for about 4 seconds. Subsequently, the amber and red lights on the buttons commence alternating flashes for about 5 further seconds before to extinguishing, causing the heater flaps/motors to reset. Evidently, this is a task that should be performed during each service. The outcome is that now the air on the driver's side does get cold, however it takes a somewhat longer time to reach a fully chilled state. This was very evident when I placed the heater (with air conditioning on) on a chilly windscreen. At first, there was condensation (resulting from warm, wet air coming into contact with cold glass), but after a few seconds, the condensation mostly disappeared from the passenger side. The process of drying the air on the driver's side took around 45 seconds. At the moment, I am awaiting the arrival of a "Formula One Autocentre" to inspect and recharge the system. The system underwent recent maintenance, which included the replacement of all gaskets with authentic Mercedes provided "O"-rings, the replacement of a pipe connected to the compressor, and the installation of a new condenser with a filter/drier. The vehicle's refrigerant was replenished, but, the lack of a suitable apparatus to provide the necessary negative air pressure (-2 bar) prior to adding the refrigerant resulted in an imperfect outcome, despite the system functioning to some extent. I will notify you whether the re-gas and pressure test is successful, providing the further clarification that either it is really true that low levels lead to uneven cooling, with one side being colder than the other, or it is only a myth generating confusion.