CrawlerTagz

In my opinion, the two most crucial deterrents you may use are 1). An excellent steering wheel immobiliser. 2). An excellent Faraday pouch/box that comes highly recommended. I use a Stoplock Pro steering lock and two Faraday pouches, each boasting over 36,000 ratings on Amazon with an average rating of 4.5 stars.

Authorce has both characteristics.

It has two tiny chains for the camshafts. It also has two timing belts. One belt connects the crankshaft to the cams, and there is a smaller belt at the rear for the fuel pump.

I just purchased a 2016 TD6 with 68,000 miles on it. The engines have a pleasing sound and operate really well. I want to maintain the current situation to the best of my ability. I intend to change my oil every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. I am willing to pay more for my piece of mind. What kind of oil and filter do you use? Your feedback is much appreciated. I am researching the differences between 5w30 and 5w40 oils, as well as the distinctions between c1 and c2 specifications.

The most recent occasion I took a cab was in Corfu, and the metre was not a significant concern for me. My first priority was reaching my location without being involved in a massive pile-up.

Does it include the 'nudge' feature for the metre? 😄

Does this also apply to the w213 model? Is the model you are referring to the 2017 e220d? If such is the case, I will attempt to eliminate it over the next weekend and assess its accessibility. Are there any photos available, if possible?

Are there no other recommendations or ideas from anyone?

Negative, I did not extract the pump. To uninstall the pump, one must remove the tank. Uncertain about the level of difficulty involved. It ceases to function after travelling around 430-450 miles. This refers to driving inside urban areas. Typically, I don't wait for the gasoline level to drop too low. Instead, I refill the tank when it is at about half or when it is 5-6 bars below full. Over a distance of 300-350 miles, I typically use around 33-36 litres of diesel fuel. I assume the tank has a capacity of 60 litres. The tank has 26 litres, positioned on the left side. The right side becomes completely vacant. There is a problem with the gasoline not transferring from the left side to the right side. I am eager to extract the tank in order to investigate the potential issue, but I am uncertain about the level of difficulty involved in doing so on the w213 model.

Indeed, the engine undergoes the cranking process but fails to ignite. Once you have filled the tank with 5-7 litres of fuel, the engine will start functioning in its usual manner.

Thank you for your prompt response, it is really appreciated. Upon inspection with the ignition activated, a pressure of 4.7 bar is observed.

BUMP

The pump has not had a failure as it is functioning properly. The system works well, however, it only utilises gasoline from the right side of the tank, leaving the petrol on the left side untouched. Observe the picture. What is the level of complexity involved in replacing the pump?

Greetings, everyone. I have encountered another issue and would want to provide a comprehensive explanation in this topic. Pertaining to the E220 W213 Diesel model. The current issue is to the gasoline tank and pump. The display indicates the presence of three bars, indicating the level of diesel fuel in the tank. Nevertheless, the automobile is unable to initiate the ignition process. The Xentry numbers indicate that the RIGHT tank has a low fuel level, while the left tank has 22 litres of petrol. Attached is a screenshot with the corresponding values. What is the resolution to this issue and how can it be rectified?

Have you resolved this issue?

Authentic thermostats for MB are no longer being produced.

Wahler is the original equipment manufacturer (OEM). Gates should be in a satisfactory condition.

The situation improved when the TC was calibrated. Since the existing tyres lack the BMW star rating, I will be replacing them with Pirelli P Zero tyres this week. There were a handful of temperature-compensation (TC) mistakes preserved, so I decided to replace them as a precautionary measure.

Allow me to provide a conclusive update on this matter - the issue has been resolved. Without any potential consequences, I made the decision to attempt to abrade the transfer case in order to access the numerical markings obscured by corrosion. I reasoned that I had no potential drawbacks, as if I couldn't get the number, I would probably have to spend thousands of pounds on a replacement. By lightly sanding with wet and dry sandpaper, I began to see numerical markings. The number was indistinct when seen directly, but became plainly discernible when illuminated from below. I need the number 184. Subsequently, I brought the vehicle to my nearby and very competent BMW technician, who successfully synchronised the new actuator with the transfer case, resolved all the malfunctions, and performed recalibration. Currently, the vehicle's performance has significantly improved and is now very smooth, surpassing its previous condition before to the flood. Previously, there was a little vibration at low speeds during sharp corners. I also replaced the transfer case oil. Hopefully, this information proves beneficial to those encountering similar difficulties with an ATC450 TC.

I discovered the numerical identifier located on the transfer case, specifically next to the designation "ATC 450" on the case. However, this crucial detail was not visually evident in the photo provided above. I only became able to perceive anything after I began the process of tidying things. The numerals on the case are illegible due to corrosion. It seems absurd that BMW employs this method, considering the significance of this number in facilitating the replacement of the servo actuator. Regardless, I have spoken with the nearby BMW dealership and they are uncertain about their ability to fulfil the request. Their fee for investigating the issue amounts to £222. Subsequently, they will inform me of the cost required to rectify the problem, namely by pairing the module to the transfer case. If the need of obtaining this number is absolute and there are no other methods available, then it is reasonable to infer that the only remaining alternative is to acquire a new transfer case. I am frustrated because despite having a functional transfer case and purchasing a new control module, I have discovered that there is no feasible method to synchronise their operation. There is no need to unnecessarily complicate things to this extent. In addition, I attempted to refurbish the previous module in order to establish communication with it and maybe get the code. However, the module is entirely non-functional, and if I reinstall it, the initial malfunctions resurface. If you have similar issues, ensure that you are capable of interpreting these numerical values prior to purchasing any components to address the problem. Once I get it directly from the authorised dealer.

I have just acquired a copy of ISTA. I must confess that I am quite apprehensive about doing it, considering the many cautionary statements I have come across on the internet on the potential for rendering one's automobile inoperable. Currently, I have only installed the diagnostic component, namely Rhiengold, and not ISTA P. I will examine the case again on Wednesday night in order to search for any numerical data.

Thank you, Freelele. The transfer container is marked with ATC 450. He experimented with two tools, namely Autologic Drive Pro and a previous-generation Autologic device. Both individuals said that coding the device was not an available option and that it must be performed as a repair. They then requested the 3 or 4 digit code as mentioned before. The above screenshot was taken from the previous autologic system.