CrawlerTagz

Apologies, but I am unable to provide assistance since the situation does not seem favourable. Hopefully Johnny will promptly provide the solution. Collision.

I highly value your advice and expertise. I intend to implement your suggestions once the inclement weather in the north east subsides. Regarding the thermostat housing, am I correct in assuming that if it is stuck in the closed position, it would prevent coolant from circulating throughout the entire engine? Furthermore, if I were to directly apply a 12-volt current to the housing while the car is completely turned off, would this enable the flow of coolant?

This is an unusual situation. I am knowledgeable about the functioning of the car, and I can confirm that all components were working properly. The fan operated as expected, there were no issues with overheating, and the tensioner pulley for the water pump was functioning correctly. Therefore, everything seemed to be in order. However, my problem arose when I decided to change the water pump, which I believed was a simple task. The replacement went smoothly, but subsequently, a new issue emerged. Currently, the coolant fan fails to activate when the engine reaches the appropriate temperature. Interestingly, if I remove the engine temperature sensor, the fan switches on as it should. Initially, I suspected that the fan relay might be the cause of this problem. However, I have thoroughly inspected all relevant components and everything appears to be in good working condition. (Could there possibly be another fuse that I am unaware of?) If the coolant housing is in a closed position that cannot be moved, it is most likely that this is the correct explanation for the issue at hand.

Thank you for your response. I had completely removed the coolant from the system using compressed air. My intention was to refill the system with a minimum of 5 litres of coolant to ensure that I had about the proper quantity. I was only able to introduce around 3 litres into the system, and the coolant was flowing out of the bleed screw. My hypothesis is that the thermostat housing is currently stuck in the closed position and fails to open when the 12v power supply is connected. I have attempted to manually open the thermostat by applying 12v directly from the battery, but I am unsure whether the thermostat is supposed to be open or closed when the engine is off. Ideally, I would expect it to be closed, but I am observing a 12v reading at the housing when only the ignition is turned on. My plan is to test the functionality of the new housing by supplying it with a 12-volt power source. I will observe if it opens or not. After removing the previous housing, I will repeat the same process. If it opens, I will be in a difficult situation. If it remains closed, I will know that the housing is damaged.

Greetings, gentlemen. I own a 2011 R5T LCI engine and recently replaced the water pump without any issues. However, when I attempted to refill the coolant, I encountered a problem. I was unable to fully replenish the coolant, which amounts to approximately 5.2 litres. I tried various methods, such as squeezing hoses, using the bleed screw, raising the car, and raising the expansion tank. It is worth noting that my car is an LCI model with a slightly different thermostat housing. Unlike other models, the temperature sensor is not located on the housing but rather in the hose connected to the expansion tank. I have been informed that there are three types of thermostat housings available. Consequently, I began to question why this issue occurred. Could it be due to a failure in the housing? Am I performing the bleeding process incorrectly? Although the heater is generating some warmth, it is not sufficient, and the engine is becoming excessively hot too quickly. Is the housing itself in good condition? I purchased the wire harness for the housing and used the existing harness to establish a connection between the power supply and the housing. However, despite this, there was no response from the thermostat, which I expected to open upon receiving power. It is possible that the thermostat is now locked in the closed position, so preventing the flow of coolant. However, because the housing is regulated by the electronic control unit (ECU), is it activated when the housing is at a low or high temperature? However, when I measured the voltage from the harness, it was found to provide 12 volts to the housing while the automobile engine is cold. Does anybody know the expected operation of this system? Idiotic miniature, Here's a helpful tip, gentlemen: while purchasing car components, consider searching for Citroen or Peugeot brands, since these parts tend to be more affordable.

What is your current location? The dealer in my vicinity, located in Northampton, is seeing a similar issue with the acquisition of automobiles. My preference is mobility, thus I entrusted it to RAC. They examined it and resolved the problem, informing me that I could retrieve it. The application indicated that the battery was not undergoing the process of recharging, prompting the individuals to retain it and thereafter get a replacement component. Previously, this dealer has shown exceptional performance. However, it is possible that the current issue might be attributed to a shortage of skilled technicians. Excessive dependence on computer diagnostics - I cannot say for certain, but you are not the only one facing this issue.

It is an N47 engine. Shine a flashlight down the driver's side and inspect for soot around the EGR cooler flexi, the turbo region and the flexi on the DPF.

The post is unclear since the headline mentions a rattling and loose air filter, but then you discuss smoke entering the cabin. Without specifying the age or engine of the vehicle, it is unlikely that you would get many responses. Please offer additional details to receive relevant feedback.

Installing a Ghost immobiliser costing over £700 is effective, however I believe a strong visible barrier will dissuade more potential vehicle thieves.If a skilled thief targets your vehicle, chances are you will lose your automobile.

In my opinion, the two most crucial deterrents you may use are 1). An excellent steering wheel immobiliser. 2). An excellent Faraday pouch/box that comes highly recommended. I use a Stoplock Pro steering lock and two Faraday pouches, each boasting over 36,000 ratings on Amazon with an average rating of 4.5 stars.

Authorce has both characteristics.

It has two tiny chains for the camshafts. It also has two timing belts. One belt connects the crankshaft to the cams, and there is a smaller belt at the rear for the fuel pump.

I just purchased a 2016 TD6 with 68,000 miles on it. The engines have a pleasing sound and operate really well. I want to maintain the current situation to the best of my ability. I intend to change my oil every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. I am willing to pay more for my piece of mind. What kind of oil and filter do you use? Your feedback is much appreciated. I am researching the differences between 5w30 and 5w40 oils, as well as the distinctions between c1 and c2 specifications.

The most recent occasion I took a cab was in Corfu, and the metre was not a significant concern for me. My first priority was reaching my location without being involved in a massive pile-up.

Does it include the 'nudge' feature for the metre? 😄

Does this also apply to the w213 model? Is the model you are referring to the 2017 e220d? If such is the case, I will attempt to eliminate it over the next weekend and assess its accessibility. Are there any photos available, if possible?

Are there no other recommendations or ideas from anyone?

Negative, I did not extract the pump. To uninstall the pump, one must remove the tank. Uncertain about the level of difficulty involved. It ceases to function after travelling around 430-450 miles. This refers to driving inside urban areas. Typically, I don't wait for the gasoline level to drop too low. Instead, I refill the tank when it is at about half or when it is 5-6 bars below full. Over a distance of 300-350 miles, I typically use around 33-36 litres of diesel fuel. I assume the tank has a capacity of 60 litres. The tank has 26 litres, positioned on the left side. The right side becomes completely vacant. There is a problem with the gasoline not transferring from the left side to the right side. I am eager to extract the tank in order to investigate the potential issue, but I am uncertain about the level of difficulty involved in doing so on the w213 model.

Indeed, the engine undergoes the cranking process but fails to ignite. Once you have filled the tank with 5-7 litres of fuel, the engine will start functioning in its usual manner.

Thank you for your prompt response, it is really appreciated. Upon inspection with the ignition activated, a pressure of 4.7 bar is observed.

BUMP

The pump has not had a failure as it is functioning properly. The system works well, however, it only utilises gasoline from the right side of the tank, leaving the petrol on the left side untouched. Observe the picture. What is the level of complexity involved in replacing the pump?

Greetings, everyone. I have encountered another issue and would want to provide a comprehensive explanation in this topic. Pertaining to the E220 W213 Diesel model. The current issue is to the gasoline tank and pump. The display indicates the presence of three bars, indicating the level of diesel fuel in the tank. Nevertheless, the automobile is unable to initiate the ignition process. The Xentry numbers indicate that the RIGHT tank has a low fuel level, while the left tank has 22 litres of petrol. Attached is a screenshot with the corresponding values. What is the resolution to this issue and how can it be rectified?

Have you resolved this issue?