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Hey everyone, I’m on looking for a first car for my daughter's birthday and noticed a 2022 Fiat 500 on FB Marketplace posted by Lamsam Logistics. At first blush I thought I was dealing with a private seller, but it turns out I’ve stumbled upon a Belfast based transport company that’s also in the business of selling repossessed vehicles. They’ve thrown their hat in the ring with home delivery to Somerset, promising it’ll be on your doorstep in a week to ten days. That all sounds like pie in the sky but I’m feeling a bit like a cat on a hot tin roof about shelling out cash before laying my eyes on the car. Has anyone walked this road before? Or did you actually bite the bullet and buy from them? I’m all ears to get the lowdown on the process, payment, and vehicle details. Your thoughts would be worth their weight in gold.

Parts that were altered began in July of 2010. Thankfully, my 1.5-liter diesel engine, which was manufactured in March of 2010 and never equipped with a DPF, began to get one installed in July. At least for notes manufactured in Europe, this might be relevant to other Note variants starting in July 2010. I have the floorboards, the storage tray for the passenger's belongings under the seat and the spare tyre and wheel; later models had the goop that was sprayed into a ruptured tyre.

It does resemble the circular vent on my E12.

If no one objects, I would appreciate some advice or assistance. In 2010, I drove a Nissan Note E11 Visia. I now realised that the technical data seems to indicate something different than what the specification for mine suggests. According to Visia, the magic sliding back seat is not present. I am grateful to have it. Also, I have dual boot boards, but they aren't working. Ugh. Since my vehicle had what I believe to be the E11 facelift, I was curious if the E12 design brief was a component of that refresh. The fact that my passenger side air vent is lacking a flap is the only reason I've just started to consider it. This has been an eyesore for a long time, but I now want to get rid of it. The flap is all I need; I have no intention of disassembling the dashboard to install a new vent. That the flaps snap into place, most likely without tools. I thought that would solve my problem. However, after perusing eBay, I've seen that the E12 flaps match mine, whereas the E11 flaps don't. I am not willing to spend about £20 on the entire unit if I can just get the one flap for £8 because I only need it. I am therefore looking for a less expensive approach. Now that we know all that, it's a Renault or Nissan. Is anyone among you thinking that this would work as a flap replacement for mine? Other Nissan cars with comparable prices have extremely similar styling. The slightly increased costs of the notes are something I'm simply curious about. If their sizes and styles are identical It would be reasonable to do so on any manufacturing run.

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That renovation or repair seems like it would cost a significant penny. Also surprising to me was the fact that, by default, pin 10 was not powered (this applies to both authentic and counterfeit wiring kits).

That is great. Pin 10 does not have any electricity, even though I am using the original towbar with connector. The repair cost was 500 Euros, according to the workshop.

Today I received my wiring kit (MZ178DX) and it is functioning properly. Thankfully, the trailer has been detected and the towing mode has been engaged. Also, pin 10 is now energised as it should be.

Make sure it's a specialised wiring harness; towing mode capabilities are activated by a single pin. Consult the installer prior to making a purchase. It is fully functional with my Brink plugin, which has the same circuitry.

Hi there, Will it damage my CX-60 if I try to attach a towing bar that isn't OEM? I'm interested in getting the towing mode to function with it. From what I gather, you can choose to tow when you have an electrical connection to a caravan. Is it necessary to activate it through SW as well if I add real towing? What is the true mechanism of detection? Warm regards

Hi there, Is it possible to install a towing bar on my CX-60 that isn't a genuine Mazda part? I'm interested in getting the towing mode to function with it. From what I gather, you can choose to tow when you have an electrical connection to a caravan. Do I also need to activate it via SW if I add genuine towing? What is the true mechanism of detection? Best regards

Yes. This was a problem for both our 2004 and 2005 CX-90s. Things are looking up now, however the problem still manifests just as you described it. Leaving the CX-90 while clutching your keys

Much obliged for the assistance.

Oh, good!

Indeed, that was the case! By purposefully sweeping my foot below as I walked by, I was able to test your assumption, and the timing and details were spot on.

Your feet are likely being detected by the foot sweep sensor as you walk by. How near to the car are you, seriously?

My CX-90 PHEV has this strange issue where, around 30% of the time, it opens on its own whenever I pass the trunk while holding my keys in my pocket. Since none of the other buttons have ever pressed, I initially assumed it was a problem with my keys accidentally striking anything in my pocket and setting off the button. The next thing I knew, I was checking every pocket to make sure nothing could activate the trap, except for my keys. Walking horizontally past the trunk, either from left to right or right to left, is the only way for it to happen. Coming up behind the trunk does not cause it to happen. Is this something that other people have experienced? Can you tell me if you fixed it?

In terms of charging speed, I would concur. However, aside from a weeklong vacation. Everyone else's is at home. Therefore, charge your device during a dinner, coffee, or shopping break if there is no on-site charging available.

I quickly topped up the battery on the way home yesterday. It was vital. It just took ten minutes, and I could have been gone in five if I had preconditioned first (average 145 KW). Although many may not be concerned about this, it is likely the primary "deficit" of the E-Niro.

Sure thing. If we decide to change cars in the future, I will have a really hard time finding one. 4-plus FTW. Comfy seats are the greatest!

I will continue to drive my 2021 E-Niro because of this. Although I am in a position to purchase a new vehicle. The Niro is the most efficient vehicle I've ever used, yet thanks to the 4+, I have all the bells and whistles I could want.

Vehicle comparison: I've decided to sell my 21 E-Niro and lease a Skoda Elroq instead. I am quite satisfied with the E-Niro. My first electric vehicle; it bolstered my faith in EVs to an unprecedented degree; now I just cannot fathom reverting to ICE. My '2' spec E-Niro was lacking in conveniences and quickness when it came to charging, so I upgraded because I wanted a new automobile. The Elroq was offered at a steep discount for a three-year lease! less expensive than the EV3. My initial thoughts on the Elroq are that it is an exceptionally pleasant vehicle to use; on these chilly mornings, I am particularly fond of the car's heated steering wheel and seats. I did purchase the Sportsline, but the 'kit' is great overall. The consumption of "fuel" has been the sole source of disappointment. The Elroq has a larger battery, but I'm not experiencing any more range, and I could possibly be seeing a little decrease. In the summer, my E-Niro's typical electricity consumption was about 4.5 to 5.0 miles/KWh, and it consistently achieved 320 miles on a full charge. In the winter, though, it dropped to roughly 4.0 to 4.5 miles/KWh, and on long, cold highway drives, it dropped to 3.5 miles/KWh or lower. With regular winter driving, I have not been able to improve the Elroq's performance to greater than 3.5 thus yet. Okay, so the heavier larger battery won't help, the 20-inch wheels won't either (and they're worse on potholes than the Kia), and I might end up utilising the heated seats and battery pre-conditioner more often than before. In any case, I've come to understand that we ought to be really appreciative of the E-Niro efficiency and the precise range predictor.

It seems to me that the teach-in approach entails installing a new Nox sensor, teaching it the necessary parameters, and then relearn the Adblue values. Does the Adblue need to clear codes and be driven on a quality highway before it realises it's working?

It has the MB dealer history up until 2021 and the specialist history after that, although I'm not sure if the car has actually had it. What was the release date of the update?

Unlike a lambda sensor, which uses a threaded bung, this one uses a pocket. The tube nut firmly presses down on the sensor as it rests on its ridge. On occasion, they do get seized very badly. By removing the flange and replacing it with a piece of an appropriate big nut that has the correct thread, I have achieved success in the past. After you've positioned it squarely in the hole and loosely on the tube nut, you can tack weld the thin slice into place. Full welding isn't necessary because it won't seal there; instead, the ridge on the probe will do the sealing. Not easy to describe.