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Screw that, I'll build a bespoke manifold, attach two T66s, and mount the intercooler on the top of the car.

Thereafter, he can attach a larger turbo.

If I hadn't gone on a whole Scrooge rant, that is what I would have proposed.

Swapping out the engine with the 30lt is less expensive and simpler.

Buying that automobile would be the worst financial mistake you could make. Do Get something reasonable to spend your money on; you'll be doing yourself a service. I won't be nasty, impolite, or pissy if I say this, but it's astonishing that you're investing in a 21-year-old automobile that may explode under increased acceleration (because you have no idea what the inside is like) instead of using that money toward your education.

Are you going to watch this to see whether they make 230? I'm not sure, but I will.

I am considering upgrading my 95k-mile, mostly stock M47 with a hybrid turbo, downpipe, fmic, etc. in order to obtain 230 hp at the wheels. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on getting the most out of the M47's power upgrade? How was it? How bad was it? What was the mistake? Which further modifications are required? Is there anything you would have like to have known before you did it yourself? Because it's a significant amount of money, particularly for a student, I would really appreciate any type of response that would help me comprehend it and decide whether to commit.

Good day, Leaving it unlocked will cause some of the modules to be active, which will gradually deplete the battery. The battery was practically dead by the time I finished cleaning the car one day since I left it unlocked for much of the time while washing and waxing, etc.

It is an MHEV, and the battery is only three months old.

Under the passenger seat of an L551 vehicle you should find a 48v mild hybrid battery. It uses a dc/dc converter to change the 48v into 12v. If you hear a fan-like noise coming from that direction, it might mean that it has failed and the 12v battery isn't charging. If your 12v battery is original and old, it's possible that leaving the car "awake" has flattened it. To be honest, I have a strong preference.

Up until this point, did you have any 'Battery Low' warnings?

I had the RAC come out and jump start the car after I had left it on our trip for two days, and now it's operating well. The rac guy claims that the battery must have drained, but I have no clue whence that drain came from. On the other hand, I did realise that I had left the car unsecured for two days—my wife was not impressed—so I wonder whether it contributed.I switched off the heater fan and went for a run, but the engine on the passenger side still sounded like it was spinning.

🙃

I appreciate the recommendation. although the vehicle is empty

Is there more than one phone that you use while driving? It will connect to their phone instead of yours if they reach within range first.

It had suddenly stopped being possible to pair my phone with my automobile using Bluetooth. Things began to function properly again once I reconnected the car and phone. Once I figured out what was causing the connection to be broken, fixing it was rather easy, but I still don't know why it happened.

Before attempting to re-establish the connection, consider removing the automobile from both the iPhone's Bluetooth settings and CarPlay settings (hidden under General!). However, I would begin by restarting the phone. Wishing you the best of luck.

My experience is similar, although it's with an Android phone made by Motorola. After exploring the Media options, I noticed that Android Auto and Carplay were both marked as greyed out. This being the situation, further action is futile. Is it possible to get around this? Everything else, including the ability to transmit Waze routes from my phone, appears to be functioning normally, and I have also paid for the OTA upgrades. Even if they are in the car, they are worthless without AA because I can't charge them. I am not very tech savvy, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I also experienced this issue after switching to the latest iOS version; however, after rebooting my phone, it was resolved.

My EV3 GT line S is fourteen months old, and my iPhone is the fifteenth generation Pro Max from Apple. Since I've paid for the over-the-air upgrades, I can see that the phone and automobile are both running the most recent software versions. It just stopped working after I used carplay so much. I have tried re-pairing both the phone and the automobile by deleting them from each other. At first, they recognise each other, and I am given the choice to begin the phone's download to the car. After what seems like an eternity, I receive a notice stating that the download failed. I would really appreciate any insight you have on the cause of this issue and any solutions.

While working on engines of all kinds, I've noticed that cars that adhere to the manufacturer-recommended oil changes for too long tend to have value stem seal problems. I've seen engines with over 200k miles on the clock that had oil changes every 6,000 miles and the cylinder heads, cams, and springs still looked brand new. If the seals appear scorched, as in the picture, I'd be surprised if the rest of the head running gear looked the same.

That's to be expected; you'll usually see greater wear on their exhaust side.

Holy cow, I couldn't believe the unexpected symptoms weren't worse. It never crossed my mind to compare the old with the new when I was working nonstop. With 183k, I'm assuming these were either originally installed or replaced earlier?

Here is a picture of a new valve stem seal (right) next to an old one (left) for those who have never seen them before. On the previous one, the hole is substantially larger. It amazes me that the symptoms weren't worse when I saw them. Engine has over 183,000 miles.