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Hi there, The keyless entry features of my P300e MY21 do not work when I try to open or close it automatically. To open and close the doors, I still have to use the button on the handle. The Remote app only reminds me to close them if I forget, and if I hit the button twice while closing, I can lock them from the inside. Has this been available on the P270e since MY23, or is it brand new?

Rather than using approach unlock, I consistently employ walk away locking. Been using it for over two years with no problems. Under typical circumstances, it works perfectly fine. However, if you do something strange, like leave the hood up for an hour while you wash the car, it might fail. Checking sure the handles are flush as you leave is always a good idea.

I recently purchased a brand new Tribeca Blue P270e Edition. Similar to my previous experience with an EPace P300e. The last vehicle I drove had a keyless entry system that let me lock and unlock the doors with the touch of a finger. In an odd quirk, the Evoque's door handle retracts when you click the button to double-lock the door. Does the approach unlocking/walk away locking method work? I haven't tried it yet. I'm worried that I won't notice if the car doesn't lock!

There isn't much juice left in high-demand scenarios when the voltage is 11.7 volts, which is less than 30% charged. I can see how it may be low enough to cause problems; it did on mine when I was at a comparable voltage. Also, my automobile usually started the first time, but eventually it stopped. I had to get a new one because it was probably around fifteen years old.

The voltage of 11.7 volts is not low enough to produce these problems on its own. While a dead battery may theoretically lead to ABS/ESP/BAS/TPMS error signals, the voltage you recorded isn't high enough to be the culprit. Usually it's the clock spring (Steering Wheel Position Sensor) or a wheel speed sensor that I wager on, rather than the battery. Having said that, it's likely worth replacing a battery that measures 11.7v overnight before it starts creating trouble.

If I were in charge, I'd check the alternator charging rate against the battery. Unacceptably low at 11.9 volts. Typically, the terminals of the battery will bear the date of manufacture.

My 2013 c180 has been intermittently displaying warnings on the dashboard regarding problems with the ABS and ESP systems, as well as the TPMS system. I expected the battery to be higher after only 15 hours of not driving the car, so I checked it using this site and found that it was 11.9 volts. After that, I purchased a Kingbolen OBD2 module, performed diagnostic tests, and the results are attached to this report. I cleared the codes and ran the test again, but the problems persisted. Based on this, I'm considering that the issues could be caused by the battery, with or without the exception of the wheel speed sensor, which likely needs replacing. I have already tested the actuation tests for the steering column, wipers, etc., and they all worked without faults. I have never replaced the battery in a vehicle less than two years ago, so I have no idea how old this one is. Since the car is stop-start, I am also unsure about which battery to get and whether or not it requires coding.

Thank you. I tried that and even had the two lines connected for 15 minutes to clean the system, but now the malfunction light is back...I don't think there are any bugs in the system, so I might try it again.

Disconnecting the battery at both ends allowed the circuits to discharge completely before reconnecting them on my 2005 S211 with full Airmatic.

Currently, I'm receptive to any and all suggestions, m80! The malfunction light has returned after I cleared the codes and finished the full diagnostic—I'm back to square one!

Totally off base, but I accidentally replugged the gearstick console the other day after taking it out. The choice of sport or comfort was impacted by that.

Thanks for getting back to me. The suspension is functional, but it only works in sport mode; I can't get it to switch to comfort or manual. I get that when something goes wrong, as with the damping sensor, the system will automatically switch to sport mode to prevent further damage. Maybe Icarsoft just doesn't have what it takes to remove the error code, therefore I'll run the diagnostics again.

It is not historic, and Icarsoft is not genuinely removing it, if it continues reappearing. In all likelihood, STAR/Xentry would be necessary to do a reset on an AIRmatic.

Here we have a little paradox. There must be something wrong with it if it won't get out of Sport mode?

Hey there, I am to the point where I am tearing my hair out. The Airmatic suspension is functioning well, but it remains stuck in Sport mode and displays a historic damper solenoid error on Icarsoft. Despite deleting it, the fault keeps reappearing. Can I clear all my data and start over?

Potentially a pyro fuse in the red distribution block.

Okay, so there was absolutely no electricity there. Zero. None.

If anything, it is a valid point up there. Lights everything; locks.

Is the vehicle still functional? Is it possible for you to check for error codes and remove them?

They are not replaceable but can be accessed by unclipping the red plastic from the battery's distribution board.

Alright, so we can inject some serious learning into this thread by pretending it didn't reanimate in the same way it did. The large fuses that I thought were stored behind the white box in the engine compartment are nowhere to be seen. And here I was thinking there were some on that item about the battery distribution cap?

Magical.

I got lucky, therefore it doesn't matter. The vehicle started up immediately after I reconnected the negative battery post.