SilentSpanner

The windows, steering, lighting, and gear shift are all powered by electricity. My arm, which is gripping the window winder, moves around and around in response to an electrical signal from my brain whenever I wish the windows open. As if by some enchantment, the window descends. Similarly, when I wish to park in reverse, my brain communicates with my arms. With one hand, I shift into backward while the other controls the wheel, and I park the car. My brain alerts my right arm, which then extends forward and flips the switch to the "on" position for the headlights whenever I detect that it has become dark outside. When I wish to shift gears, my brain signals my left arm, which in turn moves the gear stick. First, I'm smart, and second, I passed the driving test, so I can do all these amazing things. These high-tech vehicles equipped with computers are perfect for those who lack intelligence and have not yet completed their driver's license exam. The mechanics at the garage, alas, lack brains. Instead of utilising their limited cognitive abilities to accurately identify the issue, they blindly follow the instructions on their computer. So, the client ends up paying a hefty sum for unnecessary services.

Oh, I see. Buying my 1983 W123 200 is the way to go. I will not be using any electronics, adblu, DPF, warning lights, wind-up windows, LEZ fees, road tax, or MOT (though I'm sure someone on this forum will renew mine tomorrow), and my insurance is £89 a year. But the problem is that I have to sell it since the sitting position is too much for my old knees.

Rather than using approach unlock, I consistently employ walk away locking. Been using it for over two years with no problems. Under typical circumstances, it works perfectly fine. However, if you do something strange, like leave the hood up for an hour while you wash the car, it might fail. Checking sure the handles are flush as you leave is always a good idea.

The shade described

without a doubt motor oil

in 2004

I discovered a significant quantity of oil in my coolant reservoir. I extracted it and substituted some coolant. I aim to ascertain the source of the leak, and many have suggested that it is an issue with the oil cooler. Nevertheless, the oil cooler I located is positioned on the front driver's side beneath the bumper. This system is fan-assisted and features two connected cooler pipes. I do not observe any coolant lines linked to the oil cooler. Where are the oil and coolant systems interconnected? Thank you

It is more probable that it is requesting you to decrease the oil level. Vehicles equipped with the OM654 engine are notoriously sensitive regarding oil levels. I often add 0.5 litres less than the quantity indicated on WIS due to complaints regarding overfilling when the specified amount is used. The electronic gauge is challenging to interpret. Typically, it requires thirty minutes of jogging to manifest, however this duration appears to be inconsistent. I prefer to observe them in the midpoint between the minimum and maximum when a reading is obtainable. Setting it to maximum will inevitably result in receiving the reduction notification at some stage.

I would examine the fusebox via a piggyback connection; this ensures it is deactivated when it is supposed to be, employing an ignition live fuse.

Ha ha...Indeed, I have been informed of the degradation of the dashboard and steering wheel rubber. Either the temperature in Vancouver is not sufficiently high, or my Solara has been well sheltered in a garage or carport, as there are no indications of tackiness or melting thus far.

Greetings, everyone. My primary vehicle is a 2004 four-cylinder Camry with 148,000 kilometres, which I purchased privately approximately three years ago after totalling my 2005 3.3 Solara in an accident. I recently purchased a 2000 3.0L Solara coupe from a used car dealership, in excellent condition, with approximately 197,000 kilometres on it, as I have a strong affection for and nostalgia for the Solara. The vehicle was acquired new and maintained consistently, as indicated by the Carfax report, at a local Toyota dealership, but the comprehensive history report commences in 2006. I contacted the dealership (West Coast Toyota) to verify the report's integrity and to ensure there were no irregularities from the auto lot, as I have encountered manipulated Carfax reports at less respectable establishments in the past. The dealership's service records extended barely four years but appeared to validate their accuracy. The vehicle appeared to have oil and filter changes annually, around every 10,000 kilometres. Upon inspecting the oil cover, I observed some muck, which is typical for the 3.0 L engine. I am considering performing an engine flush before transitioning to a high-quality synthetic lubricant. The records indicate that the gearbox oil was flushed at around 88,000 kilometres, but there is no indication of an engine flush. Do you have any opinions on the efficacy of performing a flush on a high-kilometer engine? I am enquiring regarding the timing belt, as there are no records of its replacement, save from documentation saying that the drive belts were inspected and the serpentine belt was replaced at 161,000 kilometres (June 2019). The dealership indicated that the belt was likely replaced at an independent garage due to the high costs associated with their services. The Carfax report indicated that the starter was privately replaced in 2014 at 132,000 kilometres. The automobile appears to be in superb condition. The vehicle operates efficiently, and documents demonstrate that components such as brakes and coolant have been routinely maintained. What are your opinions regarding the engine flush and timing belt? Thank you.

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Why must the turbocharger (hot side) be removed if the issue pertains to the swirl flaps (cold side)?

I share the same sentiment, which is regrettable, since it is not justifiable to invest £7-£8K on a battery replacement for a vehicle valued at about £8K. This is one of the two primary reasons I opposed adopting electric vehicles nine years ago, since I am now stuck with a 1.5L petrol car.However, it remains operational. I intend to get it diagnosed for clarity, although it is really an absurd scenario that BMW's only solution for one or two defective cells is an exorbitantly priced complete battery replacement. Replacing just the defective cells would incur a little cost.Even if they replaced simply the defective module inside the battery, it may be a cost-effective solution; but, their proposal for a whole battery replacement is too excessive. Welcome to the realm of large enterprises! Thank you.

I appreciate your prompt response and assistance.I will contact the local BMW expert to see whether they can identify the issue; but, I assume that if it pertains to a high voltage battery problem, their options may be somewhat limited. It is amusing because Cedar, the firm I contacted this morning, requires me to transport my vehicle to their location, which is sadly too far.However, they seemed rather favourable for this particular situation. As you said, without a diagnosis, we cannot ascertain the nature of the issue, thus I will attempt to schedule an appointment locally in Scotland next week.