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I will attempt this upon retrieving the car on Friday and inform you of the outcome. If it fails to function, I believe it may be time to exchange it. Thank you once more.

superb In that instance, utilise the following as a step-by-step guide to assist you. One. Initiate ISTA and Establish Connection Attach your ENET or K+DCAN cable. Launch ISTA+ (Rheingold). Proceed to: Operations → Retrieve vehicle data → Full identification Allow ISTA to identify the VIN and retrieve the control unit hierarchy. Two. Conduct a Fault Memory Assessment Navigation sequence: Vehicle management → Diagnostics → Fault memory → Retrieve fault memory Authorise ISTA to scan all Electronic Control Units (oecus). Search for codes that reference: “Terminal 30 awakening” “Sleep mode inhibited” “Excessive closed-circuit current” “Elevated battery depletion while stationary” When a fault text specifies a particular ECU, take note; this typically indicates the module activating the bus. Three. Access Power Management History (the crucial step) Navigation sequence: Vehicle data → Control unit hierarchy → CAS (Car Access System) ↑ Functions → Power Management → Energy Diagnosis / Power Management History A table will now be displayed as follows: Date/Time Event Wake-up Reason Remarks 11/10 23:41 Vehicle activated TCB (Telematics) Remote call 11/11 01:03 Vehicle activated IHKA Climate request Convey it in the following manner: The “Wake-up cause” column names the control unit that kept the system alive or woke it up. If a module recurs — for instance, “TCB” or “CAS” — that is your suspect. Four. Verify Live Current Draw Navigation sequence: Vehicle management → Troubleshooting → Functional structure → Body → CAS → Test plan → Power management: Measurement of current in closed-circuit Subsequently: Secure the vehicle (simulate key extraction, terminal 15 deactivated). Allow approximately 25 to 30 minutes. Observe current draw: < 50 mA → normal sleep. > 100–200 mA → something’s awake. ISTA frequently designates this as "Vehicle not entering sleep mode." Five. Optional Guided “Energy Diagnosis” If ISTA presents you with a Test plan for Energy diagnosis or Battery discharge, please pick it. It automatically walks through: Battery history (State of Charge, State of Health) Sleep and wakefulness records Wake-up counters per module This test plan can generate a report enumerating the specific oecus responsible for wake-ups.

Thank you for the guidance, Engrol. I possess a copy of ISTA, but I am uncertain about its use; therefore, your guidance has been immensely beneficial.

A rapid assessment utilising ISTA on terminal 30 or for wake-up events will precisely identify the module responsible for the wake-up and subsequent drain. If the Indy has not accomplished that, they are more incompetent than esteemed, since they might have also requested a test plan in ISTA and asked you to return a week later, with the reason of the issue documented in a log and resolved by now. Always remember, the designation of a specialist by garages does not inherently confer expertise. I would not anticipate the auto electrician to possess ISTA readily available. Within ISTA Access the Power Management History Navigate to “Vehicle Information → Control Unit Tree.” Choose DME, CAS, FEM, or BDC according on your vehicle; typically, the F25 utilises either CAS or FEM. Access “Power Management” or “Energy Diagnosis” and select “Power Management History.” This record indicates: When the car entered a dormant state Upon awakening, which module initiated the wake-up process (e.g., “Wake-up cause: telematics control unit (TCB)” or “Wake-up cause: key request”) This is the essential function for diagnosing battery depletion. If a particular module is consistently identified as a wake-up cause, it is the primary suspect. To execute a testing protocol Execute an ISTA test plan for "Energy Diagnosis" or "Enhanced Battery Discharge." You may adhere to the on-screen guided workflow, which will display: Documented sleep/wake patterns Modules that inhibited sleep Battery charge log

My F25 has experienced battery depletion for over six months. It is presently at the garage for the third time to ascertain the cause of the issue. The initial alteration of the relay ceased the drain, resulting in a noticeable reduction in power consumption. I continue to have the issue of "increased battery usage when stationary," which occurs intermittently without a discernible pattern.The vehicle was returned to a highly regarded independent garage, which was unable to repeat the issue. It has since been referred to an auto electrician, who likewise cannot reproduce the fault. I am now considering the possibility that the automobile remains in an active state while at home, although I am uncertain as to why this occurs. Is there a possibility of Bluetooth interference affecting the system's connectivity or my home Wi-Fi? I possess two inexpensive Bluetooth battery monitors in close proximity on a camper; may these be the source of the issue? I am considering unconventional possibilities; however, what other factors could contribute to it at home? Thank you.

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Is there a single temperature sensor or multiple sensors on the C180 fuel model? Is it located in an accessible area? This is my initial step; I will substitute the sensor(s) with authentic Mercedes components.

Indeed, I am concerned that if this is a genuine overheating problem, it may cause damage. It is peculiar that the vehicle can operate for weeks without issues during regular driving around home, then occasionally the gauge rises unexpectedly. This has occurred while ascending a lengthy hill, though not consistently on this route. Yesterday, accelerating on the motorway triggered the issue, but when I reduced speed to 60 mph, the gauge returned to a normal and stable reading for 30 miles—no additional complications—until I increased speed back to 70 mph. Thank you very much

Thank you, that is a valid observation. The heater appears to be functioning normally. Completed an extensive motorway trip, and the heater did not exceed the normal temperature. I perceive that the engine is not overheating; nonetheless, this is merely a perception without substantiation. Thank you for the valuable suggestion. "Every seat is first class" - I concur with your assessment; I am new to this vehicle and appreciate its driving experience.

Another concern I encountered with this vehicle, for the benefit of others: Upon acquiring this pre-owned car with 79,000 miles, it exhibited a knocking sound in the back when traversing potholes. The local garage and I could not identify any issues. Their health assessment revealed no indications of bush or joint wear, yet a clunking sound persisted. Ultimately identified the issue through a process of elimination as the rear shock absorbers. No evidence of leaks; nonetheless, internal complications were present. I replaced the rear shocks with new Bilstein units, which were half the price of genuine Mercedes parts, and the vehicle now operates flawlessly.

Another inquiry, the response to which will indicate either a well operating cooling system or an instrument malfunction: does your heater emit hot air during this occurrence? If you are experiencing excessively hot air, it indicates that water is moving through your engine and heater matrix; this suggests a sensor issue.

If you maintain composure when others are losing theirs, you are evidently neglecting the seriousness of the circumstances. Engineering revolves around identifying the most efficient solution. Phil Wang ALFA Romeo: Employing outdated technology to generate future challenges in the present. I like it, such lovely aphorisms. I will include "AMG signifies All Money Gone." As an engineer, I adhere to Ockham's Razor, a problem-solving theory asserting that the simplest explanation with the least number of assumptions is the most like to be accurate. Also referred to as the principle of parsimony, it is utilised for selecting among competing theories. For instance, in the case of a headache, the more straightforward explanation of dehydration is preferred over a more intricate one such as a brain tumour. Your hypothesis regarding the water pump is rational, and I will not dismiss it. I don't think it's an airlock problem. The car is relatively new to me, yet there are no indications of any maintenance performed on the engine or cooling system. The vehicle possesses a complete service history from Mercedes; nonetheless, I will henceforth conduct all maintenance independently. I have recently acquired an xTool D8 scanner and a Picoscope Oscilloscope for comprehensive testing, however I recognise that these may not reveal any issues because the garage conducted all standard assessments. Nonetheless, I can likely conduct live monitoring during the road test with it. I have decided to opt for the more economical choice, a new temperature sender, initially; at 80,000 miles, it is likely a prudent preventative measure. I greatly appreciate your insight.

... not yet. The temperature gauge should remain stable until it reaches the appropriate temperature; thus, any fluctuations indicate considerable variance. My initial action would be to substitute the thermostat and purge the radiator. The pump presents a compelling option; perhaps an expert will arrive shortly to verify whether this is a recognised issue with the engine.

Thank you; I believed that could serve as an effective beginning point. Worth a try.

I encountered the identical issue with my ALFA 156 V6 Veloce 2.5 Busso. It required some time for me to comprehend it. Under typical driving conditions and loads, it functioned adequately; but, at elevated RPMs and loads, when attempting to circulate the water more rapidly, it overheated until I reduced speed, contrary to expectations given the airflow through the radiator at high speeds. The issue was identified as the water pump. The plastic impeller of the water pump was slipping on the shaft under load, obstructing the water flow. Upon replacing the pump, I was able to manipulate the impeller on the shaft using merely firm finger pressure. It appears to be a prevalent problem, as the new ALFA authentic replacement pump had a metal impeller affixed to the shaft by soldering. While it may not apply to your situation, I felt compelled to mention it because of the same symptoms. Have you attempted to bleed it to ascertain the presence of an airlock? Have you disassembled any components of the cooling system recently?

Replace the temperature probe? 🤔

I possess a 2013 C180 (W204) (1600 petrol) BlueEfficiency estate featuring the AMG sport package. The temperature indicator periodically reaches the red zone, seemingly when the engine is under strain, albeit not consistently—typically during prolonged inclines or at high speeds above 70 mph. The "stop engine" alert has occasionally activated. However, I do not believe the engine is genuinely overheated. The coolant is transparent, and there are no indications of head gasket issues. The gauge fluctuates, but as I decelerate, it returns to normal and may operate for hours without issue, remaining within the standard range, provided I do not exert excessive pressure. The Hi Tech Performance Garage conducted a comprehensive inspection and identified no concerns; nevertheless, I question if they performed an extensive road test, subjected it to maximum load, or utilised their rolling road. Do you have any experience with this or any recommendations?

That is a reasonable assertion; but, I wish to upgrade to a more rapid vehicle with a V8 engine. I have owned my 2007 650 for almost 14 years. It was inexpensive at the time of purchase and currently has just 60,000 miles. It requires £1,000 to £2,000 to repair engine and gearbox leaks. I may chose to undertake the repairs and retain the vehicle for an additional three years.

The N63 engine, a critical component of the 2015 650i, has demonstrated significant reliability issues. The 640i is a significantly superior option.

I have never seen mine; they snap at the tips. This is only apparent while navigating corners aggressively. My car is not driven recklessly, since I adhere to speed restrictions approximately 90% of the time.However, they failed; I have owned an E90 330d and an E92 335, and the rear components fractured when stationary in the driveway, as did the front components on the E90.I attribute the issue to speed humps; residents in areas with harsh conditions experience this problem. In my locality, some speed humps necessitate driving at 1 mph, which is detrimental to any suspension system. I consulted a garage owner with 40 years of experience, and he indicated that since the implementation of speed humps, the frequency of suspension component replacements has consistently increased.

I am not an automobile salesperson, therefore I will not be searching for a vehicle on your behalf. 😂 I would prefer to purchase a vehicle with 200,000 miles that has been well-maintained rather than a low-mileage vehicle that is leaking oil, has broken springs, and has suffered a failure of the OEM ball joint, likely due to the excessive pressure from the damaged springs, indicating that the springs have been compromised for an extended period, as most OEM suspension components typically endure 100,000 miles with proper care. Your initial post unwittingly provided the answer to your query; if you must enquire about the worthiness of a risk on a public forum, you are merely seeking validation that the risk is unwarranted. It is likely the reason it is at a Citroën dealership, following the previous owner's realisation of the costs associated with repairs at a BMW dealer, ultimately leading them to opt for a more economical, French vehicle that would be less expensive to maintain in the future.

Locate a 2015 M6 with comparable mileage at a reduced price to economise.

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Typically, broken springs would not alarm me; nevertheless, their discovery solely during the MOT stage raises questions about the vehicle's maintenance and care. £20,000 for a 2015 model 650? It may be prudent to purchase the M6 and conserve some funds. 😂 Jokes aside, the individual from whom I procure my pre-owned performance automobiles typically possesses some remarkable options in inventory, and I can personally attest from firsthand experience to his rectification of difficulties that develop post-sale. Currently in possession of a pair of substantial specification 7 and 8 series vehicles that appear to be impressive automobiles. He is undoubtedly deserving of a call, since Josh excels in procuring a diverse array of vehicles, ranging from standard automobiles to Rolls-Royce Cullinans, for his clientele, and his operation is exceptional. His automobile trading page if you wish to browse: