2010 RR HSE Water Pump Replacement

[NotePapa]

Greetings everyone, I have reached 168,000 miles and evidently have a steady antifreeze leak that I cannot locate, but it is not affecting the cylinder heads. I am uncertain about the service history prior to 120,000 miles, leading me to suspect that the hoses and water pump are original. What is the anticipated cost for replacing a water pump? Regrettably, I lack proximity to a dealership, necessitating reliance on my local repair business, which I must approach without prior knowledge. I typically do most automotive tasks myself; but, after five minutes of inspection, I decided against proceeding with this 5.0 engine.

[JamesStv]

The cost will be elevated due to the need of navigating many obstacles to reach the destination. At this point, you may choose to contemplate the thermostat and perhaps address some of the hoses while you are engaged in this task. You want to avoid incurring labour costs again in the future.

Additionally, inspect the ancillary belts; it may be an opportune moment to address them as well.

[Nekomp]

Other than maybe the fan, there's no specific equipment required for the work thus any skilled shop should be able to undertake it. In addition to the thermostat and pump, have them repair the plastic coolant pipes coming up from beneath the front of the manifold, and the plastic rear crossover pipe. Both are prevalent failure locations in this engine. Wishing you success!

Furthermore, using authentic components wherever feasible. They will incur a premium; but, the fitting and quality are unparalleled.

[JamesStv]

Indeed, the coolant pipes! These represent one of the most significant failure sites of the vehicle's cooling system.

[Squirrrel]

In my experience, when there is suspicion or detection of coolant leakage, changing just one component often results in several repairs. Therefore, if any portion of the cooling system begins to fail, I believe it is more prudent to replace all components. You will go on an extended journey of pursuing various components at different intervals in an attempt to rectify the failures as they manifest individually. One notable aspect of these vehicles is this. If they overheat, you are finished. Conclusion. Even a little indication of cooling issues might result in significant expenses. My L322 operates at half on the gauge under standard conditions; thus, if it overheats, there is insufficient time to halt and save the system before it becomes very hot. Although this is expensive, I recommend replacing all the hoses and plastic components entirely. As I said, it is expensive, but the assurance it provides justifies the cost for me. My perspective.

[Grundysp]

It is not very challenging if your DIY abilities and expertise with other vehicles are enough, and as Atraudes said, you own the pretty standard tools.
The most challenging aspect, but still very worthwhile, is the "heater manifold" pipe (cross-over pipe) located at the rear of the engine.
If you own a store, go with it; it likely will not include the replacement of other associated components as previously said, however it will incur excessive costs nevertheless.

I understand that by browsing and searching through the most recent pages of articles, you should be able to locate several threads and posts that provide insights and accounts from others who have had similar experiences and what they discovered and faced along the process.