NotePapa

Furthermore, this is what AI has to say; I am aware that it isn't perfect, but... A GPF charge state of 1 indicates that your filter is in excellent condition and is completely normal. Implications of This Minimal Soot Accumulation: The filter has collected a negligible amount of soot. There is no specific high-RPM driving or regeneration cycle that you must execute. As is typical for most vehicles on the road, the reading will swing between zero and three while you drive from day to day.

You were absolutely correct; I ran it for another fucking forty miles, reduced the charge state to zero, and the warning light went out. Unfortunately, I will be purchasing my last Sportage after four consecutive years due to the excruciating pain that is the GPF issue.

I appreciate it, but I think my warning should have gone off earlier. I might try again tomorrow. 👍

An employee from the service department called me; he informed me that my vehicle does not need any software updates and that I should disregard the nonsense posted on online forums. From our "rubbish" forum, I have just sent this via email. For certain Kia models, such as the NQ5e (Kia Sportage) and NQ5e MHEV (Mild Hybrid Electric Vehicle), there is a software update called the 230S23 (Revised) recall. This update improves the operation of the Gasoline Particulate Filter (GPF) warning lamp. [1] In addition, he mentioned that the filter needs to be blocked even though the Charge State 1 reading is negative.

A little twist on the widely discussed problems with the GPF. Today was the umpteenth occurrence of my warning light going off. I followed the steps in these forums by plugging in my odb reader and then driving to the closest highway. Starting out, the GPF charge state was 4. I managed to reduce it to 1, but the alert light stayed on. Whenever the charge state dropped below 2, it has previously gone off during regen runs. From what I can gather, the GPF is crystal clear at charge state 1, which is quite frustrating. I had to schedule an appointment at my Kia garage since I couldn't locate or clear the warning using the odb reader. Please do not force a restart or otherwise damage the engine; instead, I would like them to remove the warning and install the software update that should fix the GPF problems. I'll make sure to update everyone.

Retailers of tires and wheels must be thrilled with the state of our roadways at the moment. Kerching! £££

Technicians can complete the task in minutes, and components were not costly during my tenure at Kia; however, I would recommend cleaning them initially, as various washer fluids may coagulate when combined.

I would insert a hose into the washer reservoir to flush it thoroughly and refill it with a quality additive, consistently using the same product. Residue can be removed from the jets using a mixture of hot water and vinegar. While the jets are detached, I would also circulate clean water through the pipes to guarantee that the nozzles are also clean.

The e9x series experienced a battery cable defect; I had mine replaced in an e92 335d, accompanied by a recall letter. Therefore, I presume the issue has been resolved in the f series, as I have not encountered reports of it. Perhaps consult Jason at BWChiptune; you can find them online.

Greetings, my 2019 Kia Ceed First Edition was taken to Shelly Motors Kia for warranty repairs addressing engine and gearbox malfunctions in May 2025 (I apologise for my uncertainty regarding the specific repairs conducted). I am a low mileage driver, having accumulated approximately 25,000 miles since the vehicle's purchase in November 2018. However, since May, I have only driven around 600 miles, and everything functioned properly until last Saturday when identical issues reemerged: the automatic gearbox retained a gear at excessively high revolutions before shifting, and at or near motorway speeds, I experienced an intermittent low-level rumble, coupled with inadequate acceleration. Additionally, there was at least one instance of the engine management light flashing orange before extinguishing. I am concerned because the initial repair was conducted under warranty, but the seven-year overall warranty expired in mid-November, prior to the recurrence of the issue. I contacted Shelly Motors to schedule another appointment, as they were the initial dealer who resolved the issue. I attempted to convey this information to them, but I will likely need to reiterate it during my in-person visit. Could anyone provide guidance on the following matter? Does the repair conducted under the original warranty own its own warranty, ensuring coverage for any recurrence of the fault, even after the overall warranty of the vehicle has expired, thereby exempting me from charges for the work? The indications of the issues from May are identical to my recent experiences, and I hope any diagnostics conducted by the garage would confirm this.

At this juncture, I believe it is unnecessary to adopt a combative stance. Allow the dealer the opportunity to astonish you. He will be well informed of the SOGA exposure he possesses. Best of luck, and kindly inform us of the outcome.

I have been searching for some time without success: I wish to take my family on a week-long trip to Southeast UK this October, and I desire to go in style, namely by utilising a Classic Range Rover. Originating from Germany, I have possessed multiple Range Rovers throughout my life (e.g., Sport, Evoque), however the Classic remains a boyhood aspiration. I utilised Turo in the US for private car rentals; however, their offerings in the UK appear to be somewhat restricted, mostly featuring just relatively recent vehicles. Other rental companies offer classic automobiles for films, weddings, and similar events at exorbitant fees. Does anyone have suggestions for renting a historic Rolls Royce for self-driving at a reasonable rate, rather than an inexpensive one? Thank you very much!

Another inquiry, the response to which will indicate either a well operating cooling system or an instrument malfunction: does your heater emit hot air during this occurrence? If you are experiencing excessively hot air, it indicates that water is moving through your engine and heater matrix; this suggests a sensor issue.

I have now installed 16-inch alloy wheels, and the improvement in noise levels and comfort is significant - I am very pleased. I was rather concerned about speedometer calibration; however, while the speedometer indicates 40 mph, the satnav displays 37 mph, which I consider acceptable. At least the situation is not reversed, with the speedometer indicating a slower speed than the satnav.

Superb HeadlinesThank you for your prompt response. Did you encounter any issues with the speedometer? Does the circumference remain constant with smaller rims and larger tires?

I am thoroughly exasperated with the potholes in this area, having irreparably ruined three of my Mini's 17-inch alloy wheels in the past year. These low-profile tires possess minimal rubber between the road and the rim, making wear unavoidable. Is there an issue with accommodating 16-inch or even 15-inch wheels, as they would likely endure local road conditions better? Feedback?

I am seeking a 1 or 2 series, preferably not a 3-liter model. The most economical option is the 230i, priced at £15,000.

Indeed, it seems to be the later B48 engine used in the 230i. Vehicles begin at £15,000; I presume they are satisfactory?

Greetings everyone, I am considering a 125i equipped with the 218 hp N20 engine. There is much bad information on this engine, including oil consumption attributed to inadequate valve seals and rings, coolant leakage, and timing chain problems; hence, I am rather apprehensive. I recommend acquiring a vehicle with a comprehensive BMW history; however, such options are almost nonexistent within a £10,000 budget. Are they really so detrimental? What should one be vigilant of, among other considerations? Opinions?

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Outstanding! Extremely helpful! Thank you, Grober. You are exceptional!

I believed it may be associated with it.

The PDF link seems to be truncated and is nonfunctional for some reason. Could you please repost the link for me? Thank you once again.

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Greetings everyone, Vehicle Information Model: C-Class C180 Year: 1999 Classification: W202 Engine Model: M111.921 I acquired a C180 earlier this year. It has been functioning well for many months; nevertheless, it has just encountered a little difficulty. In recent months, when I attempt to drive with a cold engine, the automobile jerks as if it had no power at all. It exhibits no acceleration, as if it is not receiving any gasoline. The only method of operation is accelerating from 900rpm to 1500rpm, thereafter shifting to the next gear, and continuing this process until the desired road speed is attained. However, if I start the vehicle and let it to reach a temperature of 90 degrees before using it, its performance is often satisfactory. Additionally, along with the aforementioned, another difficulty occurred. While operating a vehicle on motorways, it sometimes experiences a loss of power at around 70-80 mph. The power loss is brief and may be restored within seconds by withdrawing the accelerator and thereafter pushing it down slowly and carefully. The vehicle seems to be significantly underpowered. I recognize that it is a substantial vehicle, although I strongly suspect that it is not delivering its full power potential. I originally neglected the problem since I was aware that the automobile required servicing soon. Last week, I had my father take the vehicle for servicing and its MOT at a family friend's garage. It successfully passed the MOT inspection. It was also serviced and connected to the Mercedes Star Diagnostics system. The technician informed my father that many cylinders were misfiring. He addressed it and said, "It is satisfactory now." I assume he replaced the spark plugs. As a family friend, I was paid a little fee for the services rendered, hence I have no grounds for complaint. The garage is very far, and returning incurs significant expenses for me. My uncle, an exceptionally skilled mechanic, and I convened over the weekend. He informed me that I should replace the plug leads, since the automobile exhibits signs of misfiring, and the leads seem to be the likely cause. Upon examining the engine, I was unable to locate any conventional plug leads. I returned my uncle's call and elucidated what I seen. He then recommended that I get one Ignition Coil Pack and substitute it for one of the current units. If I see a discrepancy, I should regard my issue as resolved. He said that if the issue persists, I should reinstall the original coil pack and sequentially replace each subsequent one until I locate the defective pack or packs. He said that they are rather simple to interchange. I attempted to identify the packages. I was unable to determine their location and the means of accessing them. I am not inept and have previously maintained my older vehicles with proficiency. This is my inaugural Mercedes, and I am currently out of practice. I have attached images of my engine and would appreciate any advise, instruction, or assistance you can provide. Thank you very much