NotePapa

Greetings, everyone. During the recent period of very low temperatures (ranging from 0 to -5 degrees Celsius last week), my 2012 Mercedes-Benz C250 CDI S204 model had a pronounced and disruptive squeaking sound originating from the front right suspension. This noise was particularly noticeable while making turns, whether when driving, manoeuvring out of intersections, or even when stationary and twisting the steering wheel from left to right. Based on my extensive study on YouTube, it seems that the source of the noise is likely a worn ball joint, since there are other videos documenting the same issue. With the increase in temperature by 5-6 degrees Celsius, the issue has fully disappeared. Complete absence of sound. Do you believe these are the first indications of a deteriorating ball joint, and do you anticipate that the situation will deteriorate further? Alternatively, what other possibilities may exist? It was really unfavourable. I have scheduled an appointment with my nearby expert, but they are unable to examine the automobile until many weeks from now. However, I am contemplating if they will be unable to detect any issues because the noise has ceased. I would like for them to identify a possible problem and rectify it before it escalates into a real one. The vehicle is a 2012 model with 128,000 km on the odometer and comes with a complete record of all maintenance and repairs. What are your opinions and recommendations?

The bulb is likely an HIR2, which stands for 'halogen infra red 2'. Alternatively referred to as a 9012. Utilised in some models of Vauxhall Insignias and Amperas. Additionally, there are a few compact Toyotas available, such as the Yaris. It is rather uncommon. If I recall correctly, Halfords did not have these in store until around 5 years ago. The ECP pricing seems to be on the higher side. If you can endure the delay, I would recommend making the purchase online. I would get a pair since they often malfunction in rapid succession, and the "brighter" ones (regardless of the brand) have a much shorter lifespan. The initial equipment mostly consisted of Philips, with Toshiba being a secondary option. Philips manufactures many sorts of products with varying intensities. If your items are authentic, they will most likely be labelled as Philips LL. I understand this to imply an extended lifespan (with typical magnitude). The Optibrite bulbs, manufactured by Philips, are supplied by Toyota dealers. However, it is worth noting that these bulbs have a stated life expectancy of just 500 hours. It is likely that you have discovered that a single bulb is responsible for both high and low beams, achieved by a mechanism including a solenoid-driven mechanical shutter. Therefore, the malfunctioning of a single blown bulb has resulted in the failure of both beams in that headlamp. If both lights fail simultaneously (based on personal experience!), it may be rather unpleasant.

Obtaining a guarantee for a battery from my motor supplier was a straightforward process. Last year, when I charged the battery in my wife's motor, it became apparent that one of the cells had malfunctioned.I presented the invoice and had no difficulties in exchanging it.

The original poster (OP) is now active on this platform, reading this content. Observe the action I performed.

I had the exhaust manifolds rebuilt on my Vito, which has the OM642 V6 engine. This required removing the engine and transmission. However, I wondered whether there might be easier access in a GL model. The manifolds possess a steel liner that may undergo delamination, resulting in the release of metal fragments into the turbocharger, necessitating the replacement of the turbocharger as well. Prior to this, I was unaware of any instances where manifolds have been reported to break, as described by the original poster (OP).

Thank you for sharing the information. To be honest, I was unaware of it.

I appreciate your response. I anticipated that would be the response. Currently, I am not experiencing the troublesome countdown problem. I have implemented a de-crystallising agent to address the issue. Additionally, I have contemplated removing the AD Blue system, but I am not well-informed about the potential consequences in terms of passing the MOT test, maintaining resale value, and complying with legal regulations.

Many individuals have reported encountering problems with the engine management light, specifically the inability to read the AD Blue fluid level. I am experiencing this issue as well, although occasionally the correct reading does appear. For instance, it initially showed 8600 miles remaining, but has now decreased to 8300 miles. Despite the car functioning properly, the engine management light remains illuminated, causing concern. Additionally, the inability to consistently read the fluid level persists intermittently. The diagnostic check conducted by my local garage revealed that there is a defect with the AD Blue system. The garage believes that the issue is due to overfilling, and they suggested that the problem will resolve itself when the level of AD Blue reduces. However, further investigation indicates that it is not possible to repair only the level sensor, but rather the whole tank has to be replaced. The user's text consists of four pound signs (££££).