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The N18 has direct injection, whereas the N16 and N12 use port injection.

I own the same vehicle; which sensor did you purchase? I acquired mine from Autodoc and have had no problems with it. Have you performed a scan using an OBDII device?

I have already converted two 6 series vehicles from run-flat tires to conventional tires, resulting in an improved ride quality without any significant drawbacks, except from the potential for punctures and the necessity of using sealant and a pump. Salutations

The malfunctioning auxiliary pump will not result in insufficient heat, since its role is only for the rest mode. When the engine operates, the primary water pump pumps coolant through the matrix. Does the engine attain its operational temperature? Assuming it is an M57 engine in that vehicle, the statistics indicate a propensity for failure.

With the soul, one has the ability to choose. The cable becomes unlocked upon charging. Detach the cable by unlocking the vehicle.

Notify me if I can assist as well. Familiarise yourself well with the 107 and 129.

My father-in-law just acquired a Superb Sportline+, which features an attractive gloss carbon trim; thus, I chose that option for my S204.

If you want a high-quality wrap, then 3M 2080 is the optimal choice. It has excellent properties for heating, stretching, and healing (in case of failure) and is appropriate for both indoor and outdoor use.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/bmw-rear-wheel-hub-genuine-bmw-33416752381/id/454171

It seems to be the proper component.

I anticipate that the driveshafts, rebuilt around four years ago, are all functioning well. Consequently, I surmise that the individuals who altered the driveshafts were also responsible for striking the hub with excessive force, resulting in its deformation. Indeed, the bolts were not well secured, resulting in their dislodgment after 20 miles, necessitating a recovery call due to the disconnection of the driveshafts.

Is it necessary to detach the driveshaft from the differential?

Indeed, that is quite peculiar. I have attempted to get further images of the BMW hub and the FEBI hub; however, it is challenging to obtain corresponding photographs. Despite the FEBI website providing three perspectives, I cannot find one that aligns with the authentic OEM design. I will continue searching. I own a Sealey AK713 hub puller, however I am uncertain of its efficacy for the task. Additionally, my workplace was disposing of manual bench presses, and I acquired one; nonetheless, it caused a significant dent in the rear bumper when I removed it from the trunk.

I will be replacing one of the hubs on my E90 (2009 320D) in a few weeks and am preparing to buy the necessary components. The component number on REAL OEM is 334 1675 2381, and the part appears as follows: I accessed the FEBI website and entered the BMW component number, resulting in the following information: It seems incorrect to me - has Febi made an error?

Your comprehension is accurate. In a well operating electrical system, the power wire (typically the coloured wire, in this instance, white/blue) and the ground wire (brown) must not exhibit continuity between them. Measuring continuity between these two wires may suggest a short circuit inside the wiring harness or a defect in the fuel pump itself. Below are the further actions you may do to better identify the issue: 1. Examine the Wiring: Assess the wiring between the fuel pump connection and the fuel pump for indications of damage, including fraying, abrasion, or exposed wires that may be responsible for a short circuit. 2. Evaluate the Fuel Pump: If feasible, assess the fuel pump directly. An defective pump may exhibit internal shorting that might influence the continuity measurements. 3. Isolate the Circuit: Detach the fuel pump connection and re-evaluate the continuity between the power and ground wires at the connector. If continuity persists with the pump unplugged, the problem is probably inside the wire harness. 4. Inspect for Ground Faults: Verify that the ground connection to the chassis is clean and secure. A deficient ground connection may result in anomalous results. 5. Consult a Wiring Diagram: Refer to the wiring diagram pertinent to your unique BMW model to comprehend the intended configuration of the fuel pump circuit. 6. Examine Additional Components: If the wiring and pump are OK, investigate additional circuit components that may be causing a short circuit. If you persist in experiencing difficulties or are uncertain about certain procedures, it may be prudent to seek the expertise of a professional mechanic who can do a comprehensive diagnostic assessment.

If it is not a vert, then you are likely correct that the water originates from the boot. It is said that opening a damp boot lid results in this phenomenon. I am uncertain, however there exists a discussion thread here about blown amplifiers and Audi's creation of a shield in later models to safeguard the amplifier. I am not a specialist in this area and cannot adequately address your enquiries, however I observed this while re-reading; I am seeing a little battery drain, as this new battery depletes from 100% to 20% after around 4 to 5 days. It also seems significant. The key must function with a single press release.

Numerous mistakes I suspect a defective module is overwhelming the communications. I would concentrate on identifying water damage as the most probable cause, given your mention of it. Water may enter from above and inundate the amplifier unit in the trunk; this is well-documented. The convertible roof motor is susceptible to flooding and deterioration, resulting in many mistakes. On the other side of the boot are the fuses and different modules. I would place a fan in the trunk to dry the damp places and inspect for water stains on the different electrical components. Avoid driving through any puddles, since they may indicate leakage from the back vents.

Despite the absence of a diagram or location, can this information assist you in determining its possible whereabouts?

I discovered this information when inputting my vehicle identification number (VIN). https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BS52-EUR-06-2000-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=36_0497

I came up a previous discussion on this platform that dates back 17 years, about the position of the RDC control unit. One remark concurs with your statement, while another mentions the glove box, which, once again, is not very informative, given it is the first instance I have seen this assertion, and it is not corroborated anywhere. At this pace, I will need to inspect the trunk, glove compartment, backseat, and vicinity of the gasoline tank.

It is possible that I have misidentified the component, since it is sometimes referred to as the "TPMS" or the "RDC". After entering my Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) into RealOEM, the information is shown. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BS52-EUR-06-2000-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=36_0497

Greetings, everyone. The tyre pressure warning light on my dashboard has been illuminated since I purchased my E46 330ci. It appears one minute after starting the car and remains visible for a few minutes before fading away. However, it randomly reappears while driving. The previous owners reportedly spent a significant amount of money attempting to resolve this issue, although I am unaware of the specifics or the exact amount spent. It is worth noting that the wheels are in good condition with ample tread on the Br Upon inspection at a nearby establishment, it was determined that the TPMS Module itself (without the sensors) was the source of the problem. The module was generating error signals for three of the wheels, despite the tire pressures being within the appropriate range. They said that the module's placement was in close proximity to the fuel tank and concluded that it was not worth the effort. After doing internet research, I found no videos, photographs, or schematics of the position. However, I came across an old post mentioning that the location is on the right side of the boot, under the liner. It is worth noting that accessing this region may not be straightforward. Therefore, I would really appreciate confirmation before investing my time. Is there any definitive evidence or visual documentation available that would enable me to do this task independently? Thank you for taking the time to read!

Prior to receiving my '22 desired automobile, I visited many dealerships to inspect their pre-owned vehicles. Additionally, I examined the paint quality of newer Mazda cars parked in Manhattan, where I reside. There are several chips, scratches, and other forms of damage. I had Paint Protection Film (PPF) placed on the hood, front side panels, and mirrors a few weeks after I received the vehicle. I am pleased that I did!

It seems to be a characteristic of daughters, since both males did not have nearly as much stuff. She plans to bring her Alfa 147 since she believes it will be necessary.