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I will be replacing one of the hubs on my E90 (2009 320D) in a few weeks and am preparing to buy the necessary components. The component number on REAL OEM is 334 1675 2381, and the part appears as follows: I accessed the FEBI website and entered the BMW component number, resulting in the following information: It seems incorrect to me - has Febi made an error?

Your comprehension is accurate. In a well operating electrical system, the power wire (typically the coloured wire, in this instance, white/blue) and the ground wire (brown) must not exhibit continuity between them. Measuring continuity between these two wires may suggest a short circuit inside the wiring harness or a defect in the fuel pump itself. Below are the further actions you may do to better identify the issue: 1. Examine the Wiring: Assess the wiring between the fuel pump connection and the fuel pump for indications of damage, including fraying, abrasion, or exposed wires that may be responsible for a short circuit. 2. Evaluate the Fuel Pump: If feasible, assess the fuel pump directly. An defective pump may exhibit internal shorting that might influence the continuity measurements. 3. Isolate the Circuit: Detach the fuel pump connection and re-evaluate the continuity between the power and ground wires at the connector. If continuity persists with the pump unplugged, the problem is probably inside the wire harness. 4. Inspect for Ground Faults: Verify that the ground connection to the chassis is clean and secure. A deficient ground connection may result in anomalous results. 5. Consult a Wiring Diagram: Refer to the wiring diagram pertinent to your unique BMW model to comprehend the intended configuration of the fuel pump circuit. 6. Examine Additional Components: If the wiring and pump are OK, investigate additional circuit components that may be causing a short circuit. If you persist in experiencing difficulties or are uncertain about certain procedures, it may be prudent to seek the expertise of a professional mechanic who can do a comprehensive diagnostic assessment.

If it is not a vert, then you are likely correct that the water originates from the boot. It is said that opening a damp boot lid results in this phenomenon. I am uncertain, however there exists a discussion thread here about blown amplifiers and Audi's creation of a shield in later models to safeguard the amplifier. I am not a specialist in this area and cannot adequately address your enquiries, however I observed this while re-reading; I am seeing a little battery drain, as this new battery depletes from 100% to 20% after around 4 to 5 days. It also seems significant. The key must function with a single press release.

Numerous mistakes I suspect a defective module is overwhelming the communications. I would concentrate on identifying water damage as the most probable cause, given your mention of it. Water may enter from above and inundate the amplifier unit in the trunk; this is well-documented. The convertible roof motor is susceptible to flooding and deterioration, resulting in many mistakes. On the other side of the boot are the fuses and different modules. I would place a fan in the trunk to dry the damp places and inspect for water stains on the different electrical components. Avoid driving through any puddles, since they may indicate leakage from the back vents.

Despite the absence of a diagram or location, can this information assist you in determining its possible whereabouts?

I discovered this information when inputting my vehicle identification number (VIN). https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BS52-EUR-06-2000-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=36_0497

I came up a previous discussion on this platform that dates back 17 years, about the position of the RDC control unit. One remark concurs with your statement, while another mentions the glove box, which, once again, is not very informative, given it is the first instance I have seen this assertion, and it is not corroborated anywhere. At this pace, I will need to inspect the trunk, glove compartment, backseat, and vicinity of the gasoline tank.

It is possible that I have misidentified the component, since it is sometimes referred to as the "TPMS" or the "RDC". After entering my Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) into RealOEM, the information is shown. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BS52-EUR-06-2000-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=36_0497

Greetings, everyone. The tyre pressure warning light on my dashboard has been illuminated since I purchased my E46 330ci. It appears one minute after starting the car and remains visible for a few minutes before fading away. However, it randomly reappears while driving. The previous owners reportedly spent a significant amount of money attempting to resolve this issue, although I am unaware of the specifics or the exact amount spent. It is worth noting that the wheels are in good condition with ample tread on the Br Upon inspection at a nearby establishment, it was determined that the TPMS Module itself (without the sensors) was the source of the problem. The module was generating error signals for three of the wheels, despite the tire pressures being within the appropriate range. They said that the module's placement was in close proximity to the fuel tank and concluded that it was not worth the effort. After doing internet research, I found no videos, photographs, or schematics of the position. However, I came across an old post mentioning that the location is on the right side of the boot, under the liner. It is worth noting that accessing this region may not be straightforward. Therefore, I would really appreciate confirmation before investing my time. Is there any definitive evidence or visual documentation available that would enable me to do this task independently? Thank you for taking the time to read!

Prior to receiving my '22 desired automobile, I visited many dealerships to inspect their pre-owned vehicles. Additionally, I examined the paint quality of newer Mazda cars parked in Manhattan, where I reside. There are several chips, scratches, and other forms of damage. I had Paint Protection Film (PPF) placed on the hood, front side panels, and mirrors a few weeks after I received the vehicle. I am pleased that I did!

It seems to be a characteristic of daughters, since both males did not have nearly as much stuff. She plans to bring her Alfa 147 since she believes it will be necessary.

Property

I will be retrieving our daughter from the university on Wednesday and I am curious as to whether I will need a vehicle of M class or E class to accommodate her belongings. She is using her own vehicle for transportation, while we are only providing the hauling service. However, there will be two adults, a baby, and overnight baggage accompanying us. Based on my inclination, I believe that the E class would emerge victorious. Since we have not yet sold the E class, it seems to be the most sensible option. Thank you in advance for any guidance or suggestions on this matter.

How do I initiate contact with him in order to engage in a conversation? Due to my concerns about the possibility of my vehicle breaking down again, I have decided to rely on using a bus for my daily commute. The recurring issue that has been identified is a defect in the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF), with the exception of last Saturday when the vehicle went into a reduced power mode and indicated a fault related to a brake light. It will display this information on my dashboard, but it won't provide any other details that might potentially lead to significant harm.

Thank you for your assistance. However, I am now located in Maidstone, Kent, which is too far away from Plymouth. I am grateful for your help, but I am in need of someone who has knowledge regarding issues specific to Mini vehicles and offers fair pricing. Regrettably, the current pricing structure is exorbitantly pricey for even entering the premises.

The vehicle has accumulated a mileage of 56,000 kilometres. Do you suspect that the regeneration process is not functioning correctly? Thank you

Thank you. I considered the possibility of the injectors being the issue. However, wouldn't a diagnostic test reveal any signs of failure or malfunction in the injectors?

I own a 2012 Cooper diesel automatic car that has been experiencing issues with the diesel particulate filter (DPF). The car has been stuttering while in neutral or first gear, indicating possible fuel-related problems. It broke down during Christmas, and the diagnostics pointed to a DPF issue. Interestingly, no warning lights have ever appeared. In an attempt to fix the problem, I had the DPF sensor replaced, along with a cleaner and static regeneration. However, two weeks later, the issue resurfaced. Surprisingly, when the car was put on diagnostic, no faults were recorded. The air mass is currently higher than what the car's specifications indicate, despite changing the MAP sensor. Recently, the car broke down again, entering limp mode and refusing to start. The AA (Automobile Association) put the car on a diagnostic machine, which once again identified a DPF fault, along with a rear brake light issue. The AA fixed the brake light, as electrical problems can sometimes negatively affect the car's performance. After the repair, the car started perfectly. However, I am now hesitant to drive it, fearing another breakdown. Is there someone available to provide assistance? Thank you

Is there a method to do a test before changing it? Is it possible to put two wires in the connection to activate the blower motor?

Is it permissible to use a voltmeter configured to measure voltage? Which wire should be designated as negative and which should be designated as positive?

Therefore, I visually inspected and disconnected both plugs from the hedgehog resistor. There is no rust or visible signs of melting or damage. What is the further course of action, please?

Regrettably, despite my efforts to observe instructional films on the location of the blower fan, I am unable to visually identify its whereabouts. Due to my inability to get a satisfactory photograph, I opted to record a little film, which unfortunately also falls short of being of high quality. What is lacking from my understanding?

Is there an other method of diagnosing the issue without just replacing the component? Which option would you consider reliable as a replacement? The prices range from £15 to £50, and there are both used BMW components and aftermarket options available. What would be your preference?