rauman

Property

I will be retrieving our daughter from the university on Wednesday and I am curious as to whether I will need a vehicle of M class or E class to accommodate her belongings. She is using her own vehicle for transportation, while we are only providing the hauling service. However, there will be two adults, a baby, and overnight baggage accompanying us. Based on my inclination, I believe that the E class would emerge victorious. Since we have not yet sold the E class, it seems to be the most sensible option. Thank you in advance for any guidance or suggestions on this matter.

How do I initiate contact with him in order to engage in a conversation? Due to my concerns about the possibility of my vehicle breaking down again, I have decided to rely on using a bus for my daily commute. The recurring issue that has been identified is a defect in the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF), with the exception of last Saturday when the vehicle went into a reduced power mode and indicated a fault related to a brake light. It will display this information on my dashboard, but it won't provide any other details that might potentially lead to significant harm.

Thank you for your assistance. However, I am now located in Maidstone, Kent, which is too far away from Plymouth. I am grateful for your help, but I am in need of someone who has knowledge regarding issues specific to Mini vehicles and offers fair pricing. Regrettably, the current pricing structure is exorbitantly pricey for even entering the premises.

The vehicle has accumulated a mileage of 56,000 kilometres. Do you suspect that the regeneration process is not functioning correctly? Thank you

Thank you. I considered the possibility of the injectors being the issue. However, wouldn't a diagnostic test reveal any signs of failure or malfunction in the injectors?

I own a 2012 Cooper diesel automatic car that has been experiencing issues with the diesel particulate filter (DPF). The car has been stuttering while in neutral or first gear, indicating possible fuel-related problems. It broke down during Christmas, and the diagnostics pointed to a DPF issue. Interestingly, no warning lights have ever appeared. In an attempt to fix the problem, I had the DPF sensor replaced, along with a cleaner and static regeneration. However, two weeks later, the issue resurfaced. Surprisingly, when the car was put on diagnostic, no faults were recorded. The air mass is currently higher than what the car's specifications indicate, despite changing the MAP sensor. Recently, the car broke down again, entering limp mode and refusing to start. The AA (Automobile Association) put the car on a diagnostic machine, which once again identified a DPF fault, along with a rear brake light issue. The AA fixed the brake light, as electrical problems can sometimes negatively affect the car's performance. After the repair, the car started perfectly. However, I am now hesitant to drive it, fearing another breakdown. Is there someone available to provide assistance? Thank you

Is there a method to do a test before changing it? Is it possible to put two wires in the connection to activate the blower motor?

Is it permissible to use a voltmeter configured to measure voltage? Which wire should be designated as negative and which should be designated as positive?

Therefore, I visually inspected and disconnected both plugs from the hedgehog resistor. There is no rust or visible signs of melting or damage. What is the further course of action, please?

Regrettably, despite my efforts to observe instructional films on the location of the blower fan, I am unable to visually identify its whereabouts. Due to my inability to get a satisfactory photograph, I opted to record a little film, which unfortunately also falls short of being of high quality. What is lacking from my understanding?

Is there an other method of diagnosing the issue without just replacing the component? Which option would you consider reliable as a replacement? The prices range from £15 to £50, and there are both used BMW components and aftermarket options available. What would be your preference?

There are no recalls. Adding more aggravation, the bonnet refused to open. Successfully removed the kidney grill by exerting force and then pulled on the release cord. The door remained closed. Applied WD40 to the soaked material - no success. I successfully inserted a flathead screwdriver between the rubber seal and the bonnet hole, allowing me to open it without causing any harm. I am now drinking tea. I have applied more WD40 and will assess its performance at a later time. The next step is to reach the blower motor from the engine compartment, which seems to be a simpler task. If the motor begins functioning, it will indicate that the problem is in that area.

Is there a current recall for the E87? I would appreciate it if BMW could address the issue.

While waiting in a line, I see that all the indicators of the blower/air conditioning system are functioning, but the fan itself is not running. The most recent occurrence took place a few weeks ago, lasting just a few minutes before resolving spontaneously. What items can I verify? Thank you.

I am now located in the North East, but I am grateful for your kind gift. Thank you. Does it imply that even a high-quality snap-on tool would not be able to detect it? it is what he used the previous time he performed the task for me, right? It is peculiar that the engine has difficult running, yet a simple action of stopping and starting it resolves the issue.

I will purchase an inexpensive e-reader from Amazon. However, I will seek assistance from someone who has a high-quality e-reader to evaluate its performance. I did not consider the possibility that the cheap e-reader may not be of satisfactory quality.

There were no error codes, despite the fact that the warning light was blinking. I took the initiative to connect the reader to the OBD port, but it did not provide any results.

Greetings, I just purchased a vehicle, namely a 120i model, equipped with an N43 engine. I get an unusual sensation at low revolutions per minute in third gear. Additionally, on two occasions when I have accelerated forcefully, the engine management light has begun to flash and the engine runs quite unevenly. However, as soon as I switch off the engine, the issue resets itself and the vehicle runs smoothly without any flashing lights. Furthermore, there are no error codes stored in the engine control unit. Is it possible that the solenoid located at the rear right-hand side of the engine compartment, directly behind the throttle body, is causing the ticking noise? Has anybody experienced this issue? If so, what was the specific difficulty or do you have any other suggestions?

2021 Range Rover Sport SVR with 30,000 kilometres. There are no problems or concerns.

I prefer to pay the additional cost rather than place an order from Russia.

Dear w4rlock, your paper is of exceptional quality. If the alignment of the EGR unit aligns with the specified documentation, it is possible to conduct a partial examination of the vacuum section without causing excessive damage.

Examining the Impact of High Fan Speed on MPG Decrease. Prior to my morning journey, deactivate the radiator fan. Outcome: The MPG loss remains consistent and exhibits peculiar patterns, beginning at 14.1mpg and progressively decreasing from 14.9mpg to 16.mpg, then to 18.mpg, and finally reaching 21.mpg over the following 3 to 4 miles. In the past, the vehicle exhibited an initial fuel efficiency of 31.x miles per gallon (MPG) within a short distance from departure, rapidly rising to the mid-30s and 40s within 5 miles, and reaching the 50s for the majority of journeys. I can perceive the MPG descending significantly, like a slope, and then levelling out after a descent. Previously, the decrease in fuel efficiency was just 1 or 2 MPG, but today it is far more, ranging from 5 to 6 MPG each hill. Last week, I conducted a comprehensive fuel test, often achieving a range of 510 to 530 miles (sometimes exceeding this range), but it is now achieving 460 miles. Theoretically, the defect responsible for the low fuel usage is also transmitting information to the ECU, indicating the need for more cooling.

Thank you for the helpful suggestions, gentlemen. The automobile has been scheduled for a second diagnostic visit later this week. Today, someone posed the question, "Could the increased load caused by the fan running have an impact on fuel consumption?" Undoubtedly, the response is affirmative, although to a certain extent. However, is a 10% increase beyond a feasible proposition? In my possession, it is quite probable that the primary battery remains unchanged and is of the original kind. The boot mounted battery was changed on November 22nd.