NotePapa

I am seeking a 1 or 2 series, preferably not a 3-liter model. The most economical option is the 230i, priced at £15,000.

Indeed, it seems to be the later B48 engine used in the 230i. Vehicles begin at £15,000; I presume they are satisfactory?

Greetings everyone, I am considering a 125i equipped with the 218 hp N20 engine. There is much bad information on this engine, including oil consumption attributed to inadequate valve seals and rings, coolant leakage, and timing chain problems; hence, I am rather apprehensive. I recommend acquiring a vehicle with a comprehensive BMW history; however, such options are almost nonexistent within a £10,000 budget. Are they really so detrimental? What should one be vigilant of, among other considerations? Opinions?

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Outstanding! Extremely helpful! Thank you, Grober. You are exceptional!

I believed it may be associated with it.

The PDF link seems to be truncated and is nonfunctional for some reason. Could you please repost the link for me? Thank you once again.

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Greetings everyone, Vehicle Information Model: C-Class C180 Year: 1999 Classification: W202 Engine Model: M111.921 I acquired a C180 earlier this year. It has been functioning well for many months; nevertheless, it has just encountered a little difficulty. In recent months, when I attempt to drive with a cold engine, the automobile jerks as if it had no power at all. It exhibits no acceleration, as if it is not receiving any gasoline. The only method of operation is accelerating from 900rpm to 1500rpm, thereafter shifting to the next gear, and continuing this process until the desired road speed is attained. However, if I start the vehicle and let it to reach a temperature of 90 degrees before using it, its performance is often satisfactory. Additionally, along with the aforementioned, another difficulty occurred. While operating a vehicle on motorways, it sometimes experiences a loss of power at around 70-80 mph. The power loss is brief and may be restored within seconds by withdrawing the accelerator and thereafter pushing it down slowly and carefully. The vehicle seems to be significantly underpowered. I recognize that it is a substantial vehicle, although I strongly suspect that it is not delivering its full power potential. I originally neglected the problem since I was aware that the automobile required servicing soon. Last week, I had my father take the vehicle for servicing and its MOT at a family friend's garage. It successfully passed the MOT inspection. It was also serviced and connected to the Mercedes Star Diagnostics system. The technician informed my father that many cylinders were misfiring. He addressed it and said, "It is satisfactory now." I assume he replaced the spark plugs. As a family friend, I was paid a little fee for the services rendered, hence I have no grounds for complaint. The garage is very far, and returning incurs significant expenses for me. My uncle, an exceptionally skilled mechanic, and I convened over the weekend. He informed me that I should replace the plug leads, since the automobile exhibits signs of misfiring, and the leads seem to be the likely cause. Upon examining the engine, I was unable to locate any conventional plug leads. I returned my uncle's call and elucidated what I seen. He then recommended that I get one Ignition Coil Pack and substitute it for one of the current units. If I see a discrepancy, I should regard my issue as resolved. He said that if the issue persists, I should reinstall the original coil pack and sequentially replace each subsequent one until I locate the defective pack or packs. He said that they are rather simple to interchange. I attempted to identify the packages. I was unable to determine their location and the means of accessing them. I am not inept and have previously maintained my older vehicles with proficiency. This is my inaugural Mercedes, and I am currently out of practice. I have attached images of my engine and would appreciate any advise, instruction, or assistance you can provide. Thank you very much

As a former main dealer employee, I assert that only the credulous pay main dealer pricing beyond the warranty term. Legally, one is not obligated to do so even within the warranty period, but that pertains to a separate discussion. Independent productions are at least as commendable and often superior as well. A FMDSH will increase the PX price by only a few pennies compared to an independent one, and it is highly unlikely to be as much as the additional cost incurred at the main dealer. Furthermore, the main dealer will likely attempt to overcharge for other services. How frequently do we encounter discussions on this forum regarding their attempts to persuade customers to replace brakes that are less than 50% worn, which subsequently endure for several more years? To those asserting it is just somewhat more costly than a primary dealer, I possess some enchanted beans and a bridge that may pique your attention! I like an automobile with some historical significance, however I am indifferent about its origin. I have seen pristine vehicles with little history, similar to when I purchased my previous ALFA, and I have also observed neglected automobiles with full manufacturer service history. The worth to me is determined by the specific automobile, not its history. Regarding the subframes, several replacements have occurred with no dealer documentation, resulting in variability based on the dealer's practices.

Impressive. Despite Mazda's repeated assertions that the problem lies with the faulty charging cable they provided with the vehicle, it has become evident that the issue originates from the car itself, rather than the connection. I must admit, I perceive a potential red herring in this situation, as no other cables, aside from the blue Mennekes ones, cause the vehicle to cease charging unexpectedly.

The batteries may indicate 12.6V, although they are nonfunctional due to elevated series resistance, necessitating replacement

Greetings everyone, I have reached 168,000 miles and evidently have a steady antifreeze leak that I cannot locate, but it is not affecting the cylinder heads. I am uncertain about the service history prior to 120,000 miles, leading me to suspect that the hoses and water pump are original. What is the anticipated cost for replacing a water pump? Regrettably, I lack proximity to a dealership, necessitating reliance on my local repair business, which I must approach without prior knowledge. I typically do most automotive tasks myself; but, after five minutes of inspection, I decided against proceeding with this 5.0 engine.

I understand what you are saying. Return and assert that the situation is incorrect and that it has changed; it was not in that condition when you submitted it. Maintain your position; if they claim it is unrelated, request the diagnostic error codes and share them here.

Consult the independent mechanic who serviced your vehicle yesterday. If they can program your new battery, they can interpret the error signals to identify the issue. It is conceivable that the SOS battery has reached the end of its life after six years; nonetheless, I believe you are only soliciting others to speculate about the issue. It is advisable to get the codes interpreted before enquiring further.

For the better part of a decade, I've had a SIM card in my 2015 S5 while I made and received BT calls. It was solely for usage with the SatNav that the SIM was there. This is why I think the SIM should have no effect on the BT-to-phone process.

https://www.paulstravelpictures.com/2017-2022-Kia-Sportage-Cargo-Area-Light-Bulb-Replacement-Guide/index.html

Secure a piece of string around the cord as a provisional solution; this may assist with support, however the light used is, to my knowledge, prevalent among many kinds.

If the automobile is manufactured after 2015 or 2016, it is unlikely that the laptop locksmiths will have the necessary software available. Mercedes has not yet made it available for sale, as far as I know. Therefore, it is conceivable that the AA is adopting this strategy.

I have had my keys duplicated in under 40 minutes, without the need to remove the dash. It is likely that they are also changing the electronic ignition switch (EIS) simultaneously. Will the doors still be able to lock and open with the provided key?

Congratulations, gentlemen. Sherlock Holmes would commend your work.

I have never previously seen this, but in vehicles equipped with digital tachometers, does the installation of a tune that increases the redline limit often appear on the display?

I appreciate the responses from everyone of you. Excellent! I will proceed to get a CTEK charger. I value the advice of everyone.

Greetings, May I inquire if it would be OK to use a trickle charger for this battery? Currently, I am uncertain if I came across information stating that certain batteries should not be connected to a trickle charger, or whether I am confusing this with something else I read. Before connecting a trickle charger to my vehicle, I thought it would be wise to inquire here. Any advice would be much appreciated 🙂