Radiantecon

Remember, this is permissible only if your vehicle is on a driveway or private road; leaving the engine running unattended on a public road is prohibited.

I completely concur; I possessed a PHEV for two years and encountered recurrent Hybrid System and Engine Malfunction issues that intensified with the vehicle's age. This occurred twice when I initiated it in the dealership lot after the repairs were purportedly finished. Moreover, transitioning from an electric vehicle motor to an internal combustion engine may occasionally result in a jolt. This would continue to occur despite all the updates.

What is regarded as high mileage for the N57 engine? Can most issues be prevented by regular maintenance? I intend to acquire an asset valued at approximately 60,000 and likely sell it in a few years when it reaches 100,000. Is the 57 engine unreliable, or is it merely more susceptible to problems than the 47? Thank you

Thank you for the information; I was unaware that they transitioned to LEDs in late 2017.

How do you determine the fuel efficiency of the 420i? I contemplated acquiring it, but the majority of reviews indicate that they are largely comparable, with the diesel variant offering slightly more power and around double the fuel efficiency. I am now inclined towards the 6.

Indeed, it aligns with my understanding of the xDrive; hence, I will certainly opt for the standard option. Thank you!

M Sport Plus, preferably with an automatic gearbox, however I will accept the M Sport variant with Harman Kardon speakers. Is there anything else I should specifically be seeking?

Thank you for the counsel. I am eager to test drive both models; however, they are difficult to locate locally with the appropriate year, specifications, and miles. I prefer not to test drive a vehicle in which I lack genuine purchasing intent. I will likely travel south to procure one and return if everything is OK. In addition to evident concerns such as knocks or wobbles, what specific indicators should I observe or auditory cues should I heed during the test drive to identify potential faults with these vehicles?

Thank you for your response. The prevailing consensus indicates that the 430D is a more sophisticated vehicle. Opinions on xDrive versus regular drivetrain?

Greetings everyone, I am purchasing my inaugural BMW next month and am deliberating between a 2017/2018 420d M Sport and a 430d M Sport. I have viewed numerous YouTube reviews and perused a considerable number of online content, yet I remain conflicted. I desire excellent fuel efficiency, hence I am committed to diesel; yet, I also seek an exciting driving experience, as I will predominantly be on rural or secondary roads. I intend to perform most of the maintenance on the vehicle myself; wish me luck, as I have heard it can be quite challenging. My present vehicle has a 2008 2.0L petrol engine producing 150HP, hence either alternative will represent a significant enhancement. What is the fuel efficiency in miles per gallon (MPG) for mixed out-of-town and B-road driving? Is there a substantial distinction between the 2.0L and 3.0L engines? Is the 420d enjoyable to drive, or does the 430d provide a significantly superior experience? What other information should I be aware of that may not be covered in reviews or general information? I anticipate your insights.

I acknowledge your concern regarding high mileage vehicles. Considering that you are examining 15-year-old vehicles, I believe that 100,000 miles is not excessively high, averaging approximately 10,000 miles per year. The general condition of the vehicle is crucial. A comprehensive service history is vital, ideally accompanied by a limited number of prior owners. If it includes it and all the documentation regarding replaced parts, it indicates that it has been well maintained. Best of luck!

Thank you! I will certainly refrain from using those Chinese tires. I do not want conventional 'tank slappers'!

I am now using Bridgestone tires on my 2016 SLK 300 AMG Sport. They are satisfactory. Relatively quiet and fairly comfy. Nonetheless, I remain unconvinced about their grip levels, especially under wet or slippery road conditions. I recently had a failure of the NSF wheel speed sensor, which disabled the ABS, stability control, and many other unexpected functions, including an alert to reduce speed when I was parked and attempting to raise the roof. Had to deactivate the engine, re-engage the ignition and raise the roof using the batteries. Following a period of rainfall, I exited a roundabout at 3 o'clock, exhibiting a degree of overzealousness with the accelerator. An spectacular 'tank slapper' occurred, which I barely managed to control. No. 2 Son (GR Yaris) advocates for Michelin Pilot Sports; nonetheless, what suggestions do you have for optimising traction? As a lifetime automotive enthusiast, I now drive seldom, averaging around 5,000 to 6,000 miles annually. All feedback is appreciated.

The back cable seems OK; however, the bolted connection inside the battery compartment was rather soiled, which I have since cleaned. The engine bay side seems acceptable. Is there a method to test the cable for potential faults?

Measured from the positive terminal to the engine bay grounding point on the left side. I believe a weak connection between the rear battery and the engine compartment. I also investigated potential grounding issues but only examined the engine to chassis ground strap owing to the onset of darkness and cold weather.

It may be prudent to include the codes retrieved from the vehicle; I sense that they are likely irrelevant and only indicative of improper power distribution to the automobile. | Identifier | Current Status | Detailed Description |-------------------------------------------------------------| | 1A2002 | Intermittent | Electric fan activation: Short circuit to ground | | 1A2004 | Intermittent | Electric fan activation: Open circuit | | 1A200D | Intermittent | Electric fan function: Communication fault | | CD8E12 | Intermittent | LIN message: Alternator missing | | 0DA451 | Intermittent | No message received (actual steering torque driver actuator 10.0.0) | I conducted a physical test of the electric fan at full AC load. The fan operated well, and I noted that the fan activation percentage on the reader fluctuated in line with the readings.

Greetings everyone, Recently had an issue with the car failing to start, initially seen a few weeks ago. Due to my lack of initiative, I assumed the battery was not retaining charge and changed it, resulting in a £200 error. After extricating myself from bed in the evening to do some diagnostics, I believe I have identified a power supply problem. Here is a summary of the symptoms I am experiencing. The car began the other day, remained idle overnight, and successfully started in the morning. After a brief drive, it failed to start five minutes after being turned off, with the battery reading 12.45 volts. The vehicle begins operation with support from an auxiliary battery via the front jump terminals. The alternator measures 14.5 volts. Current drain when the vehicle is off (not in sleep mode). 70 milliamperes The push-to-start mechanism produces an audible relay click. The IBS sensor has been removed, still the engine fails to start. The voltage measurements taken under load and straight from the battery in the trunk yielded the following results: 12.6 volts while turned off, 12.5 volts with ignition on, and 12.2 volts when cranking. When measured from the front jump ports: 11.6V with ignition on, 0.4V while cranking. Relocating the battery from the rear compartment to the engine block and trying to initiate the start using jumper cables produced a repeating clicking sound reminiscent of a machine cannon. I am led to assume that the positive wire from the battery to the engine compartment is defective. Conversely, I believe that the battery connected to the front jumps should have started the automobile. Any recommendations or additional aspects to evaluate would be highly appreciated. I like a challenging problem, but this one is overwhelming me.

My 7 Series exhibited similar behaviour when one of the level sensors on the rear suspension arm was inverted, resulting in an incorrect height reading and the vehicle attempting to compensate. The adjustment took five minutes to elevate the back and reposition the level sensor linkage in the opposite direction. I trust it is something as straightforward as this for you.

What, no Basil jokes being presented?Wink

I cannot speak on the ethics of your local garage; but, regular brake strip inspections and servicing for brake life are now obsolete. If they emit unusual sounds or exhibit abnormal behaviour, they need care. Rear disc brakes exhibit a degree of fragility and are susceptible to partial seizure if not regularly maintained. This will result in premature and irregular wear, contingent upon the type of the seizure. Mileage is inconsequential, since infrequent usage may potentially exacerbate problems.

No information is available about an advised restriction on brake pads. Perhaps if he is aware that it is being taken in for servicing, the garage will identify them? Ultimately, some individuals will complain if they get advice. Believing they are only seeking employment.

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/1-brakes#section-1-2-1

It is possible that they have not been completely released. A comprehensive brake service may be necessary.

A minimum of one cap. If yours is absent, you must a replacement nonetheless. I possess no knowledge about the AL tanks, save from the fact that they are available for purchase. I have never used one.

The cap should remain secured. It alleviates pressure at around 21-22 psi. It should not displace the threads on the bottle. Purchase an authentic Mini brand reservoir cover and see whether it continues to overflow. Coolant systems need appropriate pressure; otherwise, they may vaporise at temperatures lower than specified.