Bitxx

Would a budget-friendly BMW-specific code reader like the Creator C310+ provide live data including oil pressure readings? Seems encouraging!

Thank you for the detailed information. Recalibration is a problem for me as well, especially since my MY20 vehicle has a camera located at the top of the glass to enable the automobile detecting features.

Agreed. I have Admiral insurance, which suggests utilising Autoglass for the replacement and will provide me with £4X. I heard that my premium would rise next year if I make a claim. I am considering not filing an insurance claim for it.

After hearing about your experience, I contacted Autoglass this morning. They informed me that they only provide OEM glass unless I specifically ask for a Kia genuine one, which comes at a higher price and takes longer to get. I am considering cancelling the Autoglass appointment and opting to see Kia directly instead.

Autoglass is an authorised dealer by my insurance policy.

I will schedule an appointment with Autoglass at either Brent Cross or Estree.

This morning, I discovered a fracture in the glass of my MY20 vehicle, which I marked with red colour. The damage should be located on the left side of the photo. I want to know whether the Kia warranty would be impacted if I get my vehicle repaired by Autoglass instead of Kia. Please provide guidance on my next course of action. Thank you very much.

By the way, it was silly of them to discontinue the new Mazda 6. Genesis evolved become a prestigious automotive brand specialising in premium performance sedans. Picture a 340-horsepower inline 6 performance luxury car rivalling the Audi S4, BMW M340i, Genesis G70, and Acura TLX A-Spec.

It should be a medium SUV with two rows. Mazda has not had a vehicle in this range since 2012 with the CX-7. Mazda offers two subcompact models (CX-3, CX-30), two compact models (CX-5, CX-50), and two full-size 3-row SUVs (CX-9, CX-90). Any vehicle larger than a medium would be considered foolish by them!

Shaking my head It would be unfortunate if Mazda were dumb enough to persist in not addressing the midsize SUV gap. The CX-70 should be positioned between the CX-50 and CX-90, similar to how the BMW X5 is positioned between the X3 and X7. The vehicle should have two rows and provide more capacity than the tiny CX-50, but it should not be as large as the minivan-sized CX-90.

What can I have for 10 dollars?

It can generate some electricity on bright days, but it produces very little power on overcast days. I saw a video on YouTube where someone conducted a month-long test, during which they only managed to charge a few ampere-hours (Ah) given the limited number of sunny days.

This is a prevalent issue. The component in question is not a battery, but rather a capacitor/power module situated in the passenger footwell. Below are some links that you may find interesting: Genuine Mercedes-Benz W205 C-Class Voltage Converter Aux Battery A205905341480 | eBay

Appears to be suitable or appropriate in appearance! The vehicle's height is expected to decrease somewhat in the next weeks. I had my vehicle's height reduced by 40mm using Eibach springs around 2 months ago, and I believe that the overall ride quality has much improved. I am currently undecided about using spacers. I came across information stating that VX Lines have a natural height that is 15mm lower than usual. Therefore, by using 40mm springs, you would only get a drop of 25mm.

Impressive. What is the purpose of having functional steering wheel buttons when you can control all functions using voice commands via Siri? I do not use CarPlay, just connect my iPhone over Bluetooth. However, I rely solely on voice commands, specifically addressing Siri. Initiate the playback of the Smith and Sniff podcast or establish a phone call with TheSteeringCommittee. What is the level of sound quality?

Discovered the method to include an image, although remain unaware of the procedure to include self-recorded movies of the automobile in motion. However, if any of you own this knowledge, kindly share it in the comments section.

I managed to resolve the issue with the pedal by identifying that a position sensor wire was missing and not properly attached. It is now functioning perfectly. There is a significant increase in boost/vacuum leakage, resulting in a significant decrease in power. However, this issue can be resolved by thoroughly inspecting all components. Currently, the progress of resolving the issue is at 75% completion. Therefore, this implies that the fuel lines were not correctly installed, the underneath pump was not properly attached, and there were loose wires present, among other issues. However, she has excellent driving skills, with a flawlessly operating engine and a smooth performance. I would want to include many video excerpts, however I am unsure of the method to do so. Thank you for the suggestions and comments, I have gained a substantial amount of knowledge from this website. If anybody is currently doing the similar procedure, please feel free to comment below this page to get assistance or vital information that I acquired throughout this exchange. This was my first diesel engine replacement, since I had previously completed a similar task on the 325-328i-s of the same generation, which were much less complex. Transitioning from a newer generation 4-cylinder engine to the first generation M57 6-cylinder engine was a lengthy and enjoyable experience. There were several fluctuations and a plethora of fresh knowledge that I acquired. However, this is the essence of the matter. Here is what I particularly like about automobiles, namely BMWs. The process of acquiring knowledge, including both successes and failures, is what unifies an automobile community. All those who made contact and provided valuable suggestions. Appreciation is extended to everyone, and I am now going to delight in using my newly acquired engine ❤

Successfully started and operationalized the automobile. However, had an issue with the throttle. Engaging the throttle from 0-50% produces no response, while applying more than 50% results in a little increase in revolutions per minute (rpm) before stabilising at about 1.5k rpm. What may be the underlying reason of this?

Additionally, does anybody own a schematic illustrating the gasoline line or hose for the e46 330d? I am uncertain about the proper placement and routing of the vacuum schematic, and unfortunately, I am unable to verify this information since the bmwfans.info website is now inaccessible.

Once again, I have identified the issue. Only two of them. One issue is that I cannot use the donor vehicles' ews module. I circumvented the issue by inserting a fuse between the two prominent wires. There is still no movement or response whatsoever. Examined the ECU wiring and related components, but found no issues. Considered the idea of reevaluating the voltages and grounds repeatedly, maybe for the hundredth time. Discovered a socket on the engine's ground nut that I had inadvertently left behind when reassembling it after cleaning the ground yesterday. Upon attempting to insert the key, the engine unexpectedly starts. Now I only need to complete the installation of the fuel lines, hoses for vacuum and coolant, organise the engine compartment and proceed with a test drive.

I have successfully connected all the necessary components, or at least I believe I have done so. Rotate the key but there is no response or action. Perceive a distinct clicking sound originating from the engine compartment, accompanied by an absence of any other auditory indications. I have thoroughly cleaned the engine ground. I am still perplexed as to whether the 3 grounds and B+s should be placed anywhere or not. I discovered duplicates of these located behind an alternative interface for the m57 ecu. I am experiencing a lack of ideas and would much appreciate any assistance or suggestions.

Regarding the matter at hand, I am aware that the terminal 30 is expected to be one of the three b+ pins. However, I am currently unaware of the specific pin in question.

I possess wiring diagrams illustrating the pin configurations of both ECUs. However, I am unable to determine the appropriate placement of the voltage supply pins and ground pins. Additionally, on the M57 side, there are pins designated for coolant temperature, oil temperature, and other functions, but I am uncertain about their corresponding locations on the M47 side. It would be greatly appreciated if any of you could provide guidance on the proper allocation of the remaining pins.

Greetings, gentlemen. I am now in the process of replacing the engine from m47n to m57. The body side connection is a more recent kind, often referred to as a single large connector. The m57 ecu uses a compact, outdated generation connection. (Comparison between a 5-connector ECU and a 2-connector ECU) I possess wiring diagrams (WDs) illustrating the pin configurations for both electronic control units (ECUs). However, I had difficulty in determining the appropriate placement for the voltage supply pins and ground pins. Additionally, on the m57 side, there are pins for coolant temperature, oil temperature, and other parameters. However, I am unable to determine their appropriate placement or connection on the m47 side. It would be much appreciated if any of you could provide guidance on the correct placement of the remaining pins.

What is the estimated time commitment for "a bit of coding"? Individuals capable of doing this task will have made substantial investments in costly equipment and developed extensive knowledge and skill, which contributes to the overall expense.