
LimeLing
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Everything posted by LimeLing
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I did not want to do a full service on it, but rather to only inspect the oil level. To do so, you will need to purchase a dipstick and a new red cap.
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I would check the level of oil in the gearbox.
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When was the gearbox last maintained?
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Perhaps BCU is not the issue. We have not yet reached a definitive decision. Attempting to ascertain the causes. The EKA code is still undisclosed.
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I am experiencing difficulties with the BCU (Body Control Unit), as the fob (keyless entry device) is unable to activate the immobilisation system of the D2 TD5. The first electronic key access (EKA) provided by the dealer is non-functional. Upon inspection of the BCU, I saw that the label indicates a reading of 145/11. Additionally, there is a delivery slip attached to the item, which contains the serial number and relevant information. The document is dated 2011. Based on the fact that my d2 is from 2001, I believe it had a BCU modification in the past and there is no available EKA information associated with it. I got a refurbished BCU to resolve the problem. The sticker on the new BCU indicates a code of 255/19. It is really intriguing whether it pertains to the date of production. For your information, the new bcu does not effectively address the issue.
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Greetings, everyone. One side of the BCU has a white label that displays the component number and other relevant information. Additionally, there is a code 255/19. Does this imply that the year of production is 2019? Thank you in advance for your assistance...
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This is a typical issue caused by carbon blockage, resulting in unrealistic air mass to EGR codes. I have experience in installing pre-turbine pressure sensors. If the banjo is released, then you may thoroughly clean the pipe with a rod. If a cordless drill is used, an old bike brake Bowden cable may effectively transfer the carbon.
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Issues related to the plausibility of air mass and errors in the exhaust pressure sensor, Essentially, it refers to the observation of a discrepancy between the intake of air and the pressure of the exhaust. There may be an air leak somewhere between the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and the engine. It is advisable to inspect common areas such as the boost pipes, input to the turbo, and the breather hose. Additionally, ensure that the narrow steel tubing connecting the manifold to the pressure sensor is not obstructed. The vacuum sensor on the brake booster is designed for the stop-start system, therefore there is no need to be concerned about it.
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I have not performed a reset yet. Which reset was that? Is it possible to reset the Kia connect software in the car in order to refresh it, since I believe the problem is exclusive to my vehicle and not affecting a large number of cars. Upon reviewing my Kia Connect app, I discovered that the most recent connection to my automobile occurred on April 6th. I am uncertain as to the reason for its abrupt cessation.
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Greetings, everyone. Is anybody else experiencing the same issue? Throughout the whole day, I have had a persistent unavailability of Kia linked services. There is no real-time navigation or route available. In addition, I have also examined the fuel stations and parking areas, but I have been unable to get any data from them as well. Will this be a matter to address directly with Kia? The Kia reception information is displaying the typical four bars indicating a strong signal, however there is no data connectivity. Appreciation is expressed for your kind gesture.
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For the sake of future readers seeking clarification, it is worth noting that even after a period of two months, there has been no indication of any chassis warning or suspension issues.
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Yesterday afternoon, I acquired a new relay and proceeded to install it. I am pleased to report that I have not had any instances of the body chassis warning or suspension descending since then. The duration of 24 hours seems to be much improved.
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I retrieved the previous item, which had significant internal corrosion. I am able to shut the feed 12v, however the contact may not be sufficiently strong.
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Thank you! I have placed an order for a new relay from BMW and want to test it upon its arrival.
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Both sides of my rear air suspension entirely descend. The frequency of my visits to a dropped automobile is sporadic, occurring around twice per week. I removed the compressor, which was damp within, and proceeded to dry and sanitise it. Although the solenoid seemed reasonable, I proceeded to replace it as a precautionary measure. It was ineffective. The compressor will elevate the automobile to the appropriate altitude, hence I deem it acceptable. In addition, I changed the air springs, which did not exhibit any leaks. However, considering their longevity of 70,000 miles, it would be prudent to make another attempt. It has not been beneficial either. I am depleting my supply of thoughts for the next subject to test. The solenoid block seemed OK, nevertheless, it may be worthwhile to consider replacing it as well. What is the probability of both sides experiencing the same intermittent problem simultaneously and repeatedly? Is there anything more that is worth investigating?
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I highly question if the cigarette lighter connector maintains an active connection with the battery after the ignition is turned off. However, I cannot confirm this without access to a CHR vehicle for verification.
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Greetings, everyone. I really wish that all individuals present in this chat room, including their families, friends, and loved ones, are now in a state of safety and good health, prioritising these aspects above everything else.π I just acquired my ideal vehicle, a 2012 Spyder in Daytona Grey, which is in fantastic condition. The mileage is 15,000. What are the guidelines for using a trickle charger, including recommended frequency, duration, and seasonal considerations? Any knowledge or understanding would be beneficial. Anticipating the prompt resumption of work and normalcy in the near future.