LimeLing

I presume that the first four services shown on the Idrive at BMW will adhere to their prescribed maintenance procedures, but will be designated as "OK" in orange based on the completion of certain dates or mileage. I have come across several reports of individuals who were impacted by the COVID situation, resulting in their vehicles' service history being documented with an orange "OK" mark. Do you recommend abandoning it due to the quality of the maintenance? The individual claimed to possess all the documentation substantiating the maintenance performed from 2020 up to the present.

The automobile has undergone maintenance. Since 2020, I have seen that other garage locations lack access to the BMW service portal. The automobile was last serviced at 53,000 km and its current mileage is 53,800 kilometres. The automobile in question is a 2015 F33 model with a very low mileage of just under 54,000. What caught my attention about this car is its striking tanzanite blue colour and the fact that it comes equipped with authentic M4 forged wheels. It is unsatisfactory that one service is delayed by a month and costs an additional 20,000 dollars for the whole year. Based on my understanding, the automobile often travelled on the freeway that year since its owner, who was a company owner, had difficulties in using the car owing to the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic.

Indeed, I first inferred that the services were completed, although with a delay. In the past, I had a 335d LCI and I believed that the recommended service intervals were either every 2 years or around every 18-24k miles, like you said. The automobile I am considering has the listed services on the iDrive system, as seen in the picture.

I am purchasing a 435d F33 vehicle, and the third and fourth maintenance services are indicated as "ok" but are shown in an amber colour. The first two items are green "Ok's". Subsequently, the automobile has been serviced in non-BMW dealerships.

Could you kindly provide the service intervals for a 2015 435d xdrive?

The official dealers are sometimes derogatorily referred to as "stealers". They want her money. Locate an expert.

I do not understand the question. It is possible to verify and modify this using VCDS.

If the battery has been installed since March but has not been used extensively, it is logical to assume that the battery is dead. Starting the engine consumes a significant amount of power, and just starting and running the engine will not replenish the charge that has been consumed. To resolve the issue, it is necessary to connect the device to a charger and ensure that it is completely charged. Additionally, it is advisable to do a parasitic drain test once the battery has been properly charged.

Unfortunately, that is not the case. The inside of the washer bottle is immaculate. The fluid lines leading up to the jets are also present. Since I am unable to perceive any sound coming from the pump, it is plausible to conclude that the issue lies either with the pump itself or with a component before it.

Yes, I did. There is no electricity supply to that particular one, and it was not the one that I first removed. (I fail to get why the previous owner would mistake the two, especially considering that one of them is covered by a cap.)

Thank you. Verified the presence of electricity to the pump, which is functioning properly. I had already removed the bottle and found no obstructions in either the bottle or the pipes.

(Touring with a diesel engine) Does anybody know of a prevalent malfunction that causes washers to stop working? With the ignition turned on, I have electrical power to the two-pin connection. I have purchased a new pump that is installed in the washer bottle, but unfortunately, the issue still persists and there is no success. The rear one is also non-functional. Is it normal to hear the pump operating while the ignition is on and the right hand stalk is pulled? The windscreen wipers activate as anticipated, but, there is no audible sound from the pump and no liquid spray is emitted. There is a second connection that is similar to the first one, except it has a cover on it. The automobile had extensive modifications and repairs some time ago, and has been mostly inactive since then due to the engine replacement. Consequently, it is possible that certain components may have been inadvertently interchanged. The only plausible explanation I can conceive of is that the wiring between the fuse box and the pump is faulty. All suggestions are welcome.

Thank you. I implemented the suggested action and saw that it began functioning, but the duration of its effectiveness remains uncertain. I have seen a component of a dog bone that requires replacement, but now everything is satisfactory.

Is there an other solution to resolve this problem except using forceful impact?

Apologies, the vehicle in question is a 2015 C-Class.

This morning, my niece contacted me to inform me that the steering column of her w205 vehicle, which typically adjusts itself to allow for easy entry into the car, is not moving. It is emitting a noise like that of a motor, but remains fixed in a single position. I have not yet examined the issue, but I am curious if anybody else on this platform has encountered a similar situation and can provide insights. I want to do a more thorough investigation tomorrow.

It seems to be a battery issue. I had a similar situation a few years back, when everything seemed OK one minute and then suddenly stopped working six hours later. Furthermore, the vehicle failed to start using the jump start method. The reason for this failure remains unknown, but the only response received was a beep from the alarm system throughout the attempt.

Impressive mileage indeed! 👍

Thank you for your response. It seems that the garage where you work demonstrates exceptional attention to detail when it comes to handling autos. Well done! 👍 I am curious to know whatever kind of oil you use in them, since you did not specify this detail. 😃 Thank you once again

Thank you, yes. I have come across information suggesting that some individuals change their oil every 4,000 miles, however I find this frequency to be excessive. Is it OK to use Castrol Edge 5w30 "M" in the R56 Mini? The current version is C3 and the model number is LL04. Thank you.

Thank you once again. I have a short question: would a 4-liter bottle be sufficient if I use Castrol? Is the specified 4.2 litres referring to the capacity of a completely unused engine? Assume that 5 litres of a substance provides an additional amount for refills and other purposes.

Thank you for the prompt response, this is the material I was examining. The product is Mannol Energy 5W30 with a volume of 5 litres. https://amzn.eu/d/hr37GoF. If you could verify that it is OK, that would be much appreciated 🙂

Tonight, I will be acquiring a Cooper 1.6. However, my immediate priority is to do an oil and filter change. I am curious about the appropriate oil to use. I am now reading about the viscosity grade 5w30, but I would want to know whether there is a particular performance rating associated with it, such as ACEA A3, for example. I came saw a 5-liter bottle of Mannol on Amazon priced at £15. However, I am uncertain about the quality and reputation of this brand. Can you provide any insights? Thank you.

That is the reason I suggested that you should get one.