LimeLing

Unfortunately, that is not the case. The inside of the washer bottle is immaculate. The fluid lines leading up to the jets are also present. Since I am unable to perceive any sound coming from the pump, it is plausible to conclude that the issue lies either with the pump itself or with a component before it.

Yes, I did. There is no electricity supply to that particular one, and it was not the one that I first removed. (I fail to get why the previous owner would mistake the two, especially considering that one of them is covered by a cap.)

Thank you. Verified the presence of electricity to the pump, which is functioning properly. I had already removed the bottle and found no obstructions in either the bottle or the pipes.

(Touring with a diesel engine) Does anybody know of a prevalent malfunction that causes washers to stop working? With the ignition turned on, I have electrical power to the two-pin connection. I have purchased a new pump that is installed in the washer bottle, but unfortunately, the issue still persists and there is no success. The rear one is also non-functional. Is it normal to hear the pump operating while the ignition is on and the right hand stalk is pulled? The windscreen wipers activate as anticipated, but, there is no audible sound from the pump and no liquid spray is emitted. There is a second connection that is similar to the first one, except it has a cover on it. The automobile had extensive modifications and repairs some time ago, and has been mostly inactive since then due to the engine replacement. Consequently, it is possible that certain components may have been inadvertently interchanged. The only plausible explanation I can conceive of is that the wiring between the fuse box and the pump is faulty. All suggestions are welcome.

Thank you. I implemented the suggested action and saw that it began functioning, but the duration of its effectiveness remains uncertain. I have seen a component of a dog bone that requires replacement, but now everything is satisfactory.

Is there an other solution to resolve this problem except using forceful impact?

Apologies, the vehicle in question is a 2015 C-Class.

This morning, my niece contacted me to inform me that the steering column of her w205 vehicle, which typically adjusts itself to allow for easy entry into the car, is not moving. It is emitting a noise like that of a motor, but remains fixed in a single position. I have not yet examined the issue, but I am curious if anybody else on this platform has encountered a similar situation and can provide insights. I want to do a more thorough investigation tomorrow.

It seems to be a battery issue. I had a similar situation a few years back, when everything seemed OK one minute and then suddenly stopped working six hours later. Furthermore, the vehicle failed to start using the jump start method. The reason for this failure remains unknown, but the only response received was a beep from the alarm system throughout the attempt.

Impressive mileage indeed! 👍

Thank you for your response. It seems that the garage where you work demonstrates exceptional attention to detail when it comes to handling autos. Well done! 👍 I am curious to know whatever kind of oil you use in them, since you did not specify this detail. 😃 Thank you once again

Thank you, yes. I have come across information suggesting that some individuals change their oil every 4,000 miles, however I find this frequency to be excessive. Is it OK to use Castrol Edge 5w30 "M" in the R56 Mini? The current version is C3 and the model number is LL04. Thank you.

Thank you once again. I have a short question: would a 4-liter bottle be sufficient if I use Castrol? Is the specified 4.2 litres referring to the capacity of a completely unused engine? Assume that 5 litres of a substance provides an additional amount for refills and other purposes.

Thank you for the prompt response, this is the material I was examining. The product is Mannol Energy 5W30 with a volume of 5 litres. https://amzn.eu/d/hr37GoF. If you could verify that it is OK, that would be much appreciated 🙂

Tonight, I will be acquiring a Cooper 1.6. However, my immediate priority is to do an oil and filter change. I am curious about the appropriate oil to use. I am now reading about the viscosity grade 5w30, but I would want to know whether there is a particular performance rating associated with it, such as ACEA A3, for example. I came saw a 5-liter bottle of Mannol on Amazon priced at £15. However, I am uncertain about the quality and reputation of this brand. Can you provide any insights? Thank you.

That is the reason I suggested that you should get one.

I did not want to do a full service on it, but rather to only inspect the oil level. To do so, you will need to purchase a dipstick and a new red cap.

I would check the level of oil in the gearbox.

When was the gearbox last maintained?

As I previously said, it is a frequently encountered issue. Now let's proceed with locating the source of the water leak. 👍

Are there any indications of water seepage in the trunk area?

Perhaps BCU is not the issue. We have not yet reached a definitive decision. Attempting to ascertain the causes. The EKA code is still undisclosed.

I am experiencing difficulties with the BCU (Body Control Unit), as the fob (keyless entry device) is unable to activate the immobilisation system of the D2 TD5. The first electronic key access (EKA) provided by the dealer is non-functional. Upon inspection of the BCU, I saw that the label indicates a reading of 145/11. Additionally, there is a delivery slip attached to the item, which contains the serial number and relevant information. The document is dated 2011. Based on the fact that my d2 is from 2001, I believe it had a BCU modification in the past and there is no available EKA information associated with it. I got a refurbished BCU to resolve the problem. The sticker on the new BCU indicates a code of 255/19. It is really intriguing whether it pertains to the date of production. For your information, the new bcu does not effectively address the issue.

Greetings, everyone. One side of the BCU has a white label that displays the component number and other relevant information. Additionally, there is a code 255/19. Does this imply that the year of production is 2019? Thank you in advance for your assistance...

When the sensor style changed, it transitioned to n47n.