Adv3nture

My acquaintance often advises me to do a regular 'Italian' tune-up—revving the engine vigorously from time to time. I had encountered several problems with a Celica GT4 due to overly cautious driving. Occasional brake failures, turbo malfunctions, etc. Drive her aggressively. 😂 You may eliminate the ingredients and use BP Ultimate only.

In the 1990s, my performance turbo Japanese imports were equipped with a 'turbo timer,' which automatically maintained the engine at idle for a certain duration after the ignition was turned off. This let the turbo to cool gradually instead of abruptly shutting down, which would result in significant heat soak damaging the internals. I am uncertain about the relevance of this technology; an informed individual will arrive shortly! 😃

Is it feasible to purchase only the actuator? I am capable of disassembling and cleaning the EGR valve and purging the cooler core. I am unable to locate one anywhere. TPS is charging £422 including VAT for the whole assembly.

It is rather ironic, really. Disregard my previous remark.Rolling on the floor laughing my ass off:

It is not the N75 solenoid; rather, it pertains to the solenoid associated with EGR cooling flow regulation. I recall that disconnecting and reconnecting it resulted in the generation of EGR error codes.

Acknowledged. My inclination is to rectify issues thoroughly, which is the reason for my post here. I appreciate that these engines often function well and run admirably without modifications; I would not consider a performance remap, since this is my wife's everyday vehicle. I am uncertain if my work has caused this issue or whether it has coincidentally occurred simultaneously and only requires an EGR valve, as indicated by the problem code. To what extent are you familiar with these engines? Could a fault code, such as the one I am receiving, be activated by a poor connection related to any components I have altered? (for instance, the throttle body). What caused the error to remain unresolved but go inactive when disconnecting the throttle body? The throttle body seemed not to operate as a shutdown flap when the engine was turned off with the error code present. It would come to a jarring halt rather than ceasing operation smoothly. The vehicle is now operating well. The glow plug indicator illuminated again yesterday upon her return home; however, when she drove later, the car functioned well and covered around 15 miles without any problems. Does the existence of an EGR fault code, whether active or stored, influence the initiation of a DPF regeneration? The DPF is intact and seems to function well, as there is consistently no soot on the rear of the vehicle, and the fuel efficiency remains between 40-45 mpg, which is satisfactory for a Touran DSG mostly used for local B-road travel.

Indeed, I am also involved in the trade and fully aware of your activities. To be fair, vehicles may sometimes malfunction unexpectedly during maintenance. I am curious if this EGR defect is related to the recent work I performed, namely the removal of the input manifold and disconnection of components such as the throttle body and N75 valve. While attempting to erase the P0403 code with the engine running, I found that it would not clear. Upon disconnecting the throttle body, the fault status changed from active to passive, and it subsequently cleared. However, disconnecting the throttle body resulted in additional faults that could not be cleared until it was reconnected. The P0403 code did not reappear immediately but returned after several brief trips. I have heard that aftermarket EGR valves are subpar, and given the cost of authentic VW units, I am inclined to disable the EGR valve and eliminate the related fault codes via mapping. Unless you can provide a compelling rationale against it?

This may be an unusual request; I hope someone can provide me with guidance. Wife's Touran, 2.0 TDI CR 140 PS with DSG transmission, CFHC engine code. The signs indicative of a thermostat stuck in the open position were evident, as it took an extended period to reach the desired temperature. No fault codes; operated normally otherwise. Yesterday, I replaced the thermostat, a somewhat unpleasant task. I accessed it from above by detaching the intake manifold and throttle assembly, necessitating the removal of the fuel rail. Initially, things seemed to go well. The vehicle was reassembled successfully; however, during the road test, the coil light began to blink, resulting in the activation of limp mode. Returned to the workshop and connected it, resulting in a P0403 error code. I find it quite dubious that this occurred quickly after significant effort, so I re-examined what I had altered and found nothing amiss. I have disconnected and reconnected all the electrical connections. The vehicle traveled around 15 miles without the warning light activating again. I started and stopped the engine many times over this distance, and all functions operated normally. This dawn, the coil light illuminated once again. Inquiring about recommendations from others? Is there a connection between the EGR system and the throttle body linked to the intake manifold? The EGR valve seems to be located in the rear of the engine, far from my work area. Upon researching this code, I saw many discussions on the N18 valve. What is its function, and where is it located? The new thermostat seems to be malfunctioning. The system now reaches temperature more rapidly than before; but, if I reduce the throttle or operate softly for around 30 seconds while the temperature is at mid-range, the coolant temperature decreases somewhat. This indicates that the new thermostat may not be entirely shutting, unless I am overlooking another factor. Does this pertain to the N18?

Was the vehicle operating smoothly prior to being parked? Have you recently purchased it in its current condition? I am seeking to comprehend the historical context of the situation - is it possible that the vehicle was immobilised due to an engine malfunction, and is it conceivable that someone may have previously interfered with its components? In the first article, it is said that the chain seems to be fresh. However, there is also uncertainty over whether it has been disassembled before.

What is the car's history - did it experience a sudden loss of power while driving, or was it parked and just failed to start?

Indeed... You are only repeating the statements made by Fred. I get the main idea and I am now awaiting assistance.

Yes, I may have unintentionally given that impression. My apologies! The car is now causing me extreme frustration.

Is there anyone available?

The car is causing me extreme frustration and I am gradually losing hope with it. After the scan, the engine mount was changed, but it did not have any effect.

Greetings everyone, I appreciate your responses. The plugs are desiccated yet coated with carbon deposits. Yesterday, I performed a VCDS scan and will now provide the results.

Is there anyone available?

Greetings, everyone! I am experiencing misfires on all cylinders in bank 2 of my 2008 S5 4.2 B8. Bank 1 is free from misfires and operates normally. I have conducted a compression test and here are the findings... The pressure is between 1 and 150 pounds per square inch (psi). The pressure range is from 2 to 150 pounds per square inch (psi). The pressure range is from 3 to 150 pounds per square inch (psi). The pressure range is from 4 to 150 pounds per square inch (psi). The pressure range is from 5 to 220 pounds per square inch (psi). The pressure is 215 pounds per square inch (psi). The pressure is 185 pounds per square inch (psi). The pressure range is 8 to 225 pounds per square inch (psi). I am perplexed. Is bank 2 exhibiting elevated compression? If so, what is the underlying reason of high compression? Thank you.

Indeed, it is important to consider the torque generated by the gear ratios, from a technical standpoint. Torque at the wheel, also known as leverage

If anything, I would love my automobile to shift to first gear while moving at very slow speeds. In my opinion, the performance of your own vehicle surpasses that of the courtesy car. If the vehicle remains in second gear while moving at very slow rates, it is likely exerting significant strain on the drivetrain to regain momentum. The primary focus of the manufacturer is to optimise the engine and transmission for minimal emissions. Furthermore, there are automobiles that engage the next gear prematurely, a significant factor contributing to the accumulation of carbon deposits in the intake system of diesel engines. Additionally, these vehicles may operate at a speed of 60km/h while in 6th gear, without downshifting to 5th gear when the driver chooses to accelerate. This puts significant strain on the whole powertrain, particularly the crankshaft bearings, due to the reduced oil pressure at low RPM. It is not unexpected that individuals have their automatic gearboxes reprogrammed and their shift points altered. Regrettably, I am starting to believe that the most advantageous action one can do with their just acquired automobile is to have it remapped. The repeated use of "emissions" suggests a focus on the release of pollutants or greenhouse gases into the atmosphere.

Indeed, there is already some paint damage. I was aware of this fact while purchasing the Soul Red. Dr. Colorchip is often effective. This chip repair touch up paint is perhaps the most straightforward and convenient option available. Mazda's two-stage paint pens are inconvenient for quickly repairing colours such as soul red. The Dr. Colorchip soul red paint does not perfectly match, but its delta-E value is much superior than that of primer or bare metal. Apply a little amount of the substance next to the chip using a toothpick, and then smooth it out with a card or a small rubber squeegee. Applying many layers also contributes to the desired outcome. While it may not be really effective for scratches, I have successfully found a way to make it function.

Once a month, I would just take my car out and drive on a major road or highway for about an hour. This would help warm up the engine and ensure that it stays in motion and maintains its optimal temperature. It is likely to be less expensive than an addition ... and far more enjoyable! Alternatively, you might do an Italian tune-up by vigorously driving the vehicle for a duration of thirty minutes.

Hello, have you attempted to restart the I drive? I recommend watching the YouTube video provided below, as it may provide helpful guidance and is worth trying.

Images obtained from mbworld website.