Jollyno

I do not. I recall that during the huge snowfall and subzero temperatures, it emerged there. This post motivated me to investigate.

It is absent in Vehicle Diagnostics. Other locations remain extant. Android version 2.1.22

Intriguing, since this prompted me to examine my connections. The 12V status has vanished.

There is nothing wrong with 280bhp; it seems to be an intriguing endeavour. I will be observing with keen attention.

Well done! The invoice for this lot is likely to be unfavourable, I presume. It seems that the modifications will result in a really fast vehicle. And boisterous, but positively so. Eagerly anticipating the completion of this assembly.

What is the status of this project, Steve? Have you achieved any advancements so far?

Regrettably, not all mirrors exceed 100, so I will just get the motor. My mirrors do not automatically fold; I wish they would.

I am aware of the screw in the centre; but, are there further clips or components of concern? Thank you.

The glass of my N/S door mirror is inoperable, perhaps due to malfunctioning internal motors. Is there a tutorial available for replacing it? The prices on eBay are reasonable, superior than purchasing a whole mirror; but, I am unable to get information on how to detach it. I have previously removed the glass and cap, so I am familiar with that process. Assistance would be much appreciated. Thank you very much 2014 Series 3 320d F31

I have retrieved the EV3 User Manual from the 'Kia Owners Manual' application, which contains fuse diagrams.

That is an unusual exclusion from the handbook. The handbook often includes a maintenance section at its conclusion, when fuses are specified. This issue should be reported to Kia customer service, with the expectation that it would be addressed in future manuals.

The liquid inside the cylinder must be pressurised to inflict injury. I removed the plugs and coils. The Seafoam traversed the intake, passed through the valves, and exited the top of the cylinder. It is difficult to conceive of any harm resulting from it. The little amount of Seafoam that entered the exhaust likely facilitated carbonisation as well.

It is a plastic intake; nonetheless, there are few aspects that may be further deteriorated. The EGR pipe connects to the tiny ports on the intake and subsequently to the manifold. Seafoam is formulated particularly for injector cleaning, making it entirely safe for use in cylinders. The obstructed channels undoubtedly expelled debris and carbon along with the Seafoam. I removed the spark plugs and cranked the engine, which expelled the debris from the top of the engine instead of obstructing the catalytic converter. Upon reassembling the EGR and reinserting the plugs and coils, I emitted a substantial cloud of white smoke. The vehicle is operating much better; it has not shown rattling throughout six cold starts, the persistent OBD misfire errors have been eliminated, and power has been enhanced.

Thank you for the reminder; I have bought a PCV valve and will replace it as soon as possible. I have delayed the removal of the intake due to the difficulty encountered with the EGR and cooler removal. I introduced Seafoam into the EGR pipe, allowing it to traverse the intake ports. Expelled a significant amount of debris from the spark plug wells and exhaust system.

The hybrid battery was changed after 190,000 miles. Charges efficiently as shown by the Dr. Prius application. Unconcerned over the matter. No coolant is expelled via the spark plug wells when they are devoid of fluid. The coils and plugs were aged, so I replaced them. The EGR is completely clean and functioning properly. I will wait to confirm it is resolved after 10 cold starts without any rattling. Thank you.

The engine has 270,000 miles, and oil changes were consistently performed every 9,000 miles. It produces a rattling sound for 1-2 seconds on cold starts. The EGR and intake were excessively coated with residue, so I used Seafoam to clean them. Today, I am replacing the coils and spark plugs. Additionally, administering injector cleaner. Cylinders 1 and 4 are excessively clean, suggesting potential coolant infiltration. The compression is 120 psi in all four cylinders. Perhaps they were cleaned using a gasoline additive? If the head is damaged, I will replace the engine. I want a definitive diagnosis. Any feedback is appreciated, thank you.

Indeed, my Alfa consistently exhibited seepage from that location, regardless of the sealing methods used. Similar to yours, it never produced real drips on the ground, rather remaining damp.

The TPSS will remain in place.

There ought to be a simple solution; the box isn't very sophisticated to begin with, and getting a speed indication should be a breeze. To begin with, it doesn't see nearly enough to function. It's probably just revolutions per minute (rpm), speed, pedal position, and maybe coolant temperature, but I can't be sure.

It likely perceives 23 as too rapid. At what speed does it emit a beep in a 30 zone?

The primary advantage of a bigger and heavier battery in plug-in hybrid electric vehicles (PHEVs) is the capability for pure electric propulsion. For those who often do extensive freeway journeys, a plug-in hybrid electric vehicle (PHEV) is inferior to a hybrid electric vehicle (HEV); in fact, it is less advantageous. The most efficient choice in this context is the 1.8 hybrid and practical drives. This variant's fuel efficiency will approximate that of the Prius and Yaris, with the Corolla 1.8 achieving over 60 mpg in summer and over 50 mpg in winter. The 2.0 HEV may approximate these statistics; however, one must exert more effort and adopt a more relaxed driving style. The crucial aspects contributing to success are the lightweight of the 1.8, the power-to-weight ratio, aerodynamics, and smaller tires, all of which are significant. The PHEV is essentially identical to the 2.0, but consistently accommodates two more people in terms of weight. A further disadvantage of PHEVs is the plug. A hectic existence, necessitating simultaneous presence in several locations and contemplating when or where to recharge, renders the opportunity to pause and rejuvenate unfeasible.

Currently, I am contemplating if it is necessary for me to do a gearbox oil change on my just acquired 2018 E Class 220, w213 Automatic, awaiting the receipt of the anticipated service history report. As a routine practice, I replaced all the oils in my two prior Mercedes-Benz vehicles, a 2010 model and a 2014 model. I have seen many YouTube videos about the procedure, and it seems to be quite straightforward. However, in a particular video, I saw that just the transmission fluid was replaced, but the torque converter fluid was left unchanged. When I enquired about this, I was advised that Mercedes Benz recommends against changing the torque converter fluid. That being said, I have always held the belief that engine and gearbox fluids and filters are replaced with precision in order to purify the fluid and safeguard the moving components from detrimental particles. Has anybody on the forum been familiar with the concept of partial fluid change, as suggested by Mercedes-Benz?

If all other components are functioning well, I suggest attempting to replace the headunit.

I have come across some postings that touch with this topic indirectly via a side conversation. However, I would want to explicitly address this matter to enquire about people's own experiences. During performance mode, I like to approach the maximum engine speed in the first and second gears when driving in urban areas, for obvious reasons. You have the opportunity to harness the engine's powerful sound and experience rapid acceleration right from the start. In my opinion, this is the optimal way to operate the automobile according to its intended design and purpose. I would want to know the ideal shifting ranges for each gear. If you want to get the most acceleration from one gear to another, is it more advantageous to reach the maximum engine speed (red line) for each gear or is it preferable to shift slightly before reaching the red line, around 6-7k rpm? There exists a table of diminishing returns while approaching the red line and shifting up, as the gearbox needs to locate the next gear position. If the engine speed is far beyond the proper range for the gear, performance is compromised owing to the resetting of engine speed. I am interested in knowing the ideal RPM ranges for moving gears 1 to 3.