SushySosa

I would want to document the issues I have encountered with my stunning, deep blue 2006 E280 CDi Estate. I purchased the vehicle from a local dealer in Surrey. Since I reside in Scotland, I travelled by air to Gatwick and then took a train to the town where the automobile was located. The automobile was in excellent shape, with just 86,000 miles on it. It had a comprehensive service history and all of its components were functioning properly. I drove the vehicle to a friend's residence in Oxfordshire and stayed overnight. The following day, I proceeded northward by entering the M40 at Bicester. It was at this point that I saw a little emission of smoke from the back of the vehicle. The condition deteriorated gradually and the engine was emitting excessive exhaust even with little acceleration. The situation was really humiliating. The vehicle was in limp mode without any indication from the check engine light. However, the issue improved by the time I arrived at The Lakes. Nevertheless, as I accelerated forcefully while leaving Tebay services, a significant amount of black smoke was emitted. Arrived home without any difficulties. The diagnosis of the issue began the next day. It was discovered that the air intake was damaged at the point where it connects to the turbo, and the orange seal was deteriorating. Discovered a high-quality original equipment manufacturer (OEM) used part and installed it, along with a new positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve.My scanner detected a "low fuel pressure" and "Oxygen sensor fault" error, therefore I replaced the faulty component. Lambda successfully removed the soot-covered old codes and discovered that the vehicle was still in limp mode. Consequently, a new fuel rail pressure sensor was procured and installed after mistakenly ordering an incorrect one, which was promptly returned. The codes have been cleared and the performance of the system has much improved. There is no longer any smoke emission and the engine is generating enough power. Additionally, the gear transitions are very smooth. I have just returned from a successful journey covering a distance of 300 miles. I am delighted to have resolved the issue independently. I have no knowledge of the potential expenses if I had brought it to a garage, but overall, I have spent around £500. I am optimistic that I will be reimbursed half of this amount by the dealer. Admire the automobile. The next task is to replace the boot lid struts, since the boot continues descending unexpectedly.

Thank you for providing the information. Although I have not yet seen the film, I have been informed of its impending release, and so, I intend to watch it on a large display this evening. Have you seen the programme on Collecting Cars that aired on CBS?

The mentioned model does not have any grommet type attachments, similar to my w213 model. The badge just slots into place without any additional components.

Does it possess a valved exhaust system equipped with a valve controller? If the valves are forcefully closed during a cold start, you may experience harsh engine behaviour.

Impressive. I want the tool due to the following reasons: a. Facilitated the task for me b. I have a strong inclination in collecting and using tools. However, I think that whatever is effective is acceptable.

Here is a video showcasing the particular tool:

They are expensive. Expect to spend around $200 for an inexpensive replica from China. You would be astounded at the exorbitant price BMW demands for a single unit. Using the specialised tool, you may install the valve train without the springs, eliminating the risk of any components becoming detached. Next, you apply pressure to a spring using the tool and insert it into the valve train. Execute it promptly, eliminate the tool, and go to the subsequent task. Mikes method, summarised, involves installing the valve train without the springs in the lever holders' slots. Then, a customised screwdriver is used to manipulate the spring legs into place on the lever arms. Youtube has videos demonstrating both methods. Conduct a search and they will appear.

There is a specialised tool available for removing or replacing the springs. Alternatively, you may save money by using mike1967's way of reattaching them using a modified screwdriver as a lever. Here is the specialised tool I purchased for the purpose of rebuilding my N12

There are four cylindrical seals and a rectangle seal positioned between the gearbox and mechatronic unit. However, it is possible that the temperature is just becoming too high. Have you ever performed maintenance on the radiator by cleaning or blowing it out? With a mileage of 177,000 kilometres, it is quite likely that there is a considerable amount of debris and clutter present in the vehicle. Based on my recollection, the trans coolers of the L320 model from 2005 to 2009 are built inside the radiator. As a minor point, we removed a radiator from an L322 vehicle that had accumulated almost 400,000 kilometres and was completely obstructed. The vehicle experienced excessive heat, resulting in the failure of the head gaskets and the rupture of the radiator. The customer was travelling at a speed of 110mph on the autobahn when it abruptly ceased functioning.

Did you replace the five seals between the gearbox and mechatronic when you performed the fluid and filter replacement?

Out of curiosity, are you operating in the high or low mode when doing this task?

Inspect the wheel speed sensors and wheel bearings.

I am currently located in the state of Georgia.

Following 11 years of insuring my 2012 V10 without any claims made, Liberty Mutual has notified me that they will cease offering covers for that particular vehicle. It seems that they suffered a significant financial loss as a result of it. Allstate willingly provided me with a new insurance coverage at a monthly cost of $132.

Thank you, tr4s. I will inspect that pipe. I will also cease driving. I have been commuting to work a distance of 5 miles everyday in my vehicle. I have recently been adding coolant to it, although I do not think the engine was overheating. However, it is prudent to err on the side of caution. Are you currently doing engine refresh services? What is the price for a 2007 R56 Cooper S? Send me a private message if you are interested. Thank you.

This occurred with my 2007 Mini One. However, it was evident that coolant was steadily dripping. Currently, I drive my vehicle to and from work. However, I have noticed that the coolant level fluctuates between the maximum mark and just below the minimum line. As a result, I have to add coolant after every voyage. Luckily, my commute is not long enough for the car to overheat significantly.

That statement is false. I have had it for more than 6 months, but I just began driving it two weeks ago. It has been inactive for a considerable period of time.

Dear Clevercol, I appreciate your prompt reply! The condition of the oil seemed OK when I inspected it this morning. It is evident that the oil was changed before I purchased the vehicle, since I have only had it for a few weeks. I am now unable to detect the scent associated with sweetness. However, I will investigate this matter tomorrow and provide you with an update.

Greetings, everyone. I just sold my R56 Cooper since I upgraded to an R56 Cooper S. The car's odometer displays a mileage of 74,000 kilometres. I lack expertise in mechanics. There are a few problems with it, but I am addressing them individually, such the occasional steering lock. The most concerning issue I am now experiencing is a rapid loss of coolant, despite my inability to locate any visible leaks. Inspected the hoses and other components, but no visible issues were found. When I turn off the engine and exit the vehicle, I can hear a sizzling sound coming from beneath the hood. I was certain that the issue was due to the coolant, but upon inspection, I cannot find any evidence of it. Furthermore, the sound seems to be originating from the vicinity of the Turbo, suggesting that it is unrelated. I am starting to suspect that the issue could be related to the head gasket. There is no visible emission of white smoke from the exhaust. Does anybody have any suggestions or has anyone experienced anything similar? The car's performance is good, however I lack a point of reference since I have previously driven a Cooper. Thank you in advance.

To me, it lacks any semblance of mechanical sound.

I am unable to assist, because that would undoubtedly cause me to become mentally unstable. Could the issue be attributed to interference with the audio system, given that the sounds do not resemble those typically associated with engine or gearbox problems?

It is worth noting that Mazdas have a design idiosyncrasy in which the side window defroster vents share airflow with the main vents. Therefore, in order for the HVAC system to function properly, it is necessary to close the vents during the winter. Failure to do so may result in the HVAC blowing air towards the windows instead of the intended direction. This is only significant in frigid climates.

Refrain from engaging in such action. The future owner of your automobile will have a strong contempt towards you because of it. Or the detailer assigned to eliminate the foul odour. Whichever occurs earlier. Have a pleasant experience in Cuba, however! I really enjoyed my time in Havana and Trinidad.

Sitting down may prevent the wife from accusing you of leaving the seat up. Alternatively, you might consider training her to urinate while standing, eliminating the issue altogether.