CrawlerTagz

Furthermore, every time I connect the gap tool while the engine is running at idle, it constantly displays a voltage reading of 13.5v-13.6v.

I find it implausible that the problem would be attributed to a faulty ground or wiring. This phenomenon occurs only when I am driving off-road or when the vehicle is experiencing a significant amount of weight or stress. If there were issues with the wiring or grounding, wouldn't these problems manifest themselves during my usual everyday use of the truck? This occurrence is exclusive to instances when I am engaged in off-road driving. Typically, I adhere to the principle of driving at the slowest speed feasible while yet maintaining an adequate pace. Therefore, I do not drive aggressively in any way. However, while acknowledging that, I suppose the blame is attributed to the presence of extra weight when driving? I am completely perplexed. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts? I am now composing this message on my mobile device, which is experiencing a weak signal strength of just one bar. I am situated inside a tent located in a mountainous region, finding the situation rather amusing. I will address this matter in the morning while enjoying my camp coffee. Thank you to everybody!

Greetings! Although I conducted thorough research on this subject, I have yet to discover a definitive solution. Today, I engaged in intense off-roading activities in the Anza Borrego Desert. The vehicle performed well despite the scorching temperatures reaching a peak of 96F. Subsequently, I had a gearbox failure. Only a limited number of gears with the letter 'F' are available. While ascending from the desert bottom to my tent, I saw the defect. I was most likely in the third gear and the engine was generating impressive power. The inclination is characterised by a significant slope and spans a distance of about 10 kilometres. By chance, I glanced at the dashboard and saw the malfunction. Stopped the vehicle, connected the diagnostic equipment, and performed a fault scan. No results were found. Turn off the vehicle, then resume it. There should be no issues now. This has occurred on several occasions. On almost every occasion when I go off the paved road. However, often on the path rather than on the roadway. The issue often resolves itself with a prompt reboot. Every day, I operate the vehicle without encountering any difficulties, whether I am driving in the city or on the highway. I am grateful that the vehicle is not immobilised in park due to the malfunction, as many others are experiencing. The vehicle is a 2009 model truck with a 4.4-liter engine and the HSE trim. It has been driven for a total of 167,000 kilometres. Replacement brake light bulbs I conducted a gearbox service at about 160,000 miles, ensuring that I used the appropriate zf fluid and filled it correctly. Replacement battery installed at 155,000 miles. Installed a new authentic Denso alternator at 160,000 miles. I plan to inspect the terminals of my battery and the electrical grounds tomorrow morning. Are there any other particular aspects I should consider? I came saw a graphic depicting the A-pillar sill of the Discovery 3. I believe that the concept of highlighting is a topic worth investigating.

I concur. I now own three automobiles, with the oldest being a 2007 Mercedes. All of them are equipped with air suspensions.

Thank you once again

Thank you for providing the link.

Regrettably, I am currently located in Springfield, MO due to a family illness, having driven here from Arizona. Although I typically do not visit dealerships, I sought the assistance of a mechanic who purportedly possesses knowledge about my vehicle. The mechanic insisted on a conversion and demanded a staggering rate of $225 per hour exclusively for Land Rovers. This exorbitant fee is unprecedented in Arizona, and I have never encountered differential pricing for a "special" car from the same mechanic, aside from the cost of parts, naturally. I value and appreciate all the input.

Thank you once again. Yes, I have the vehicle identification number (VIN) and used it to search for replacement shocks. The shocks for my vehicle are quite particular. Additionally, I am considering replacing other recommended components such as the control arm. It seems like a logical decision since the vehicle is already disassembled. Thank you once again for your opinion. I was not primarily expressing dissatisfaction with the expense of repairs, but rather with the quality. The ride is really pleasant, and it is unfortunate to see a good thing being compromised. Deterioration is to be anticipated, and I was aware that maintaining it would be costly. I only needed a reliable and knowledgeable somebody to serve as a sounding board for me to contemplate and analyse my thoughts. Engaging in conversations with other enthusiasts of rovers may be beneficial, since not everyone comprehends the appeal of these vehicles.

My name is Leslie. Incidentally, I have not yet corrected the incorrect setup of my account. Additionally, I discovered some fully assembled original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) at Rover Land. Although they are expensive, they are still more affordable than the parts offered by Range Rover dealers, who charge as much as $1,800 for a single part, if available. One of the parts personnel at a Range Rover dealership suggested replacing only the airbags (which are obtainable) and reusing the shock absorbers. My problem is that there is no Rolls-Royce dealer in Springfield, MO. The only mechanics I know and trust are in Arizona, where I am currently staying due to a family illness. The issue with my car developed during the drive from Arizona to Missouri. Every 50 miles or so, a fault would occur, but the car would return to normal after turning it off for a minute at the next truck stop. The fault would disappear, and I would continue driving, hoping to reach my destination before the problem worsened. Fortunately, I arrived safely and parked the car. Overnight, the front of the car lowered as expected. However, when I started it again, it temporarily returned to its normal position, allowing me to drive it to a mechanic who specialises in working on Rolls-Royce vehicles. My concern is that he claims his source can only provide two units of Arnotts, despite my ability to find original equipment manufacturers (OEMs). He is still insisting on the conversion, but is willing to perform either option for $6,300. This price seems excessive to me, considering the cost of components from a Land Rover dealer. Upon inquiring about the cost breakdown between components and labour, he responded that his computer did not display it in that manner, which raised a concern. Subsequently, I questioned about his hourly rate, to which he said that for range rovers, it is $225. Is that true? Seems suspicious, I should have directly inquired about it. I am a woman, but I am not foolish, although others may have a different opinion. I have a strong passion for automobiles, and it really frustrates me when I encounter situations where I am unprepared. Consequently, I have taken it upon myself to do thorough study. I agree with both of you that the integrity of the system has significant importance for several reasons. I believe I may have mistakenly chosen the incorrect individual for the task. Consequently, I have instructed him to restore the situation to its original state. Additionally, I have offered to compensate him for his time and requested that he temporarily store it until I have the opportunity to find other assistance. I really value your contribution, since it has been beneficial. Many

I consented, but, the technician to whom I brought my vehicle is attempting to persuade me to undergo a conversion. The vehicle currently has 83,000 miles on it and is in satisfactory condition overall. Could you please provide me with reasons why I should not proceed with the conversion? Perhaps it is the feeling of comfort or just the satisfaction of taking control over a computer, among other reasons. I am a novice and possess extensive knowledge about my other vehicles, but unfortunately, I lack expertise about this particular one. Additionally, he is considering using Arnott aftermarket parts for the two front components. Do you have any opinions or insights into this? I successfully used them on a 2007 ML63 AMT. Thank you for your answer, by the way.

What are your opinions on changing the air suspension system? Are there any advantages or disadvantages? I am experiencing a problem with a leak in the front.

Apologies, but I am unable to provide assistance since the situation does not seem favourable. Hopefully Johnny will promptly provide the solution. Collision.

I highly value your advice and expertise. I intend to implement your suggestions once the inclement weather in the north east subsides. Regarding the thermostat housing, am I correct in assuming that if it is stuck in the closed position, it would prevent coolant from circulating throughout the entire engine? Furthermore, if I were to directly apply a 12-volt current to the housing while the car is completely turned off, would this enable the flow of coolant?

This is an unusual situation. I am knowledgeable about the functioning of the car, and I can confirm that all components were working properly. The fan operated as expected, there were no issues with overheating, and the tensioner pulley for the water pump was functioning correctly. Therefore, everything seemed to be in order. However, my problem arose when I decided to change the water pump, which I believed was a simple task. The replacement went smoothly, but subsequently, a new issue emerged. Currently, the coolant fan fails to activate when the engine reaches the appropriate temperature. Interestingly, if I remove the engine temperature sensor, the fan switches on as it should. Initially, I suspected that the fan relay might be the cause of this problem. However, I have thoroughly inspected all relevant components and everything appears to be in good working condition. (Could there possibly be another fuse that I am unaware of?) If the coolant housing is in a closed position that cannot be moved, it is most likely that this is the correct explanation for the issue at hand.

Thank you for your response. I had completely removed the coolant from the system using compressed air. My intention was to refill the system with a minimum of 5 litres of coolant to ensure that I had about the proper quantity. I was only able to introduce around 3 litres into the system, and the coolant was flowing out of the bleed screw. My hypothesis is that the thermostat housing is currently stuck in the closed position and fails to open when the 12v power supply is connected. I have attempted to manually open the thermostat by applying 12v directly from the battery, but I am unsure whether the thermostat is supposed to be open or closed when the engine is off. Ideally, I would expect it to be closed, but I am observing a 12v reading at the housing when only the ignition is turned on. My plan is to test the functionality of the new housing by supplying it with a 12-volt power source. I will observe if it opens or not. After removing the previous housing, I will repeat the same process. If it opens, I will be in a difficult situation. If it remains closed, I will know that the housing is damaged.

Greetings, gentlemen. I own a 2011 R5T LCI engine and recently replaced the water pump without any issues. However, when I attempted to refill the coolant, I encountered a problem. I was unable to fully replenish the coolant, which amounts to approximately 5.2 litres. I tried various methods, such as squeezing hoses, using the bleed screw, raising the car, and raising the expansion tank. It is worth noting that my car is an LCI model with a slightly different thermostat housing. Unlike other models, the temperature sensor is not located on the housing but rather in the hose connected to the expansion tank. I have been informed that there are three types of thermostat housings available. Consequently, I began to question why this issue occurred. Could it be due to a failure in the housing? Am I performing the bleeding process incorrectly? Although the heater is generating some warmth, it is not sufficient, and the engine is becoming excessively hot too quickly. Is the housing itself in good condition? I purchased the wire harness for the housing and used the existing harness to establish a connection between the power supply and the housing. However, despite this, there was no response from the thermostat, which I expected to open upon receiving power. It is possible that the thermostat is now locked in the closed position, so preventing the flow of coolant. However, because the housing is regulated by the electronic control unit (ECU), is it activated when the housing is at a low or high temperature? However, when I measured the voltage from the harness, it was found to provide 12 volts to the housing while the automobile engine is cold. Does anybody know the expected operation of this system? Idiotic miniature, Here's a helpful tip, gentlemen: while purchasing car components, consider searching for Citroen or Peugeot brands, since these parts tend to be more affordable.

What is your current location? The dealer in my vicinity, located in Northampton, is seeing a similar issue with the acquisition of automobiles. My preference is mobility, thus I entrusted it to RAC. They examined it and resolved the problem, informing me that I could retrieve it. The application indicated that the battery was not undergoing the process of recharging, prompting the individuals to retain it and thereafter get a replacement component. Previously, this dealer has shown exceptional performance. However, it is possible that the current issue might be attributed to a shortage of skilled technicians. Excessive dependence on computer diagnostics - I cannot say for certain, but you are not the only one facing this issue.

It is an N47 engine. Shine a flashlight down the driver's side and inspect for soot around the EGR cooler flexi, the turbo region and the flexi on the DPF.

The post is unclear since the headline mentions a rattling and loose air filter, but then you discuss smoke entering the cabin. Without specifying the age or engine of the vehicle, it is unlikely that you would get many responses. Please offer additional details to receive relevant feedback.

Installing a Ghost immobiliser costing over £700 is effective, however I believe a strong visible barrier will dissuade more potential vehicle thieves.If a skilled thief targets your vehicle, chances are you will lose your automobile.

In my opinion, the two most crucial deterrents you may use are 1). An excellent steering wheel immobiliser. 2). An excellent Faraday pouch/box that comes highly recommended. I use a Stoplock Pro steering lock and two Faraday pouches, each boasting over 36,000 ratings on Amazon with an average rating of 4.5 stars.

Authorce has both characteristics.

It has two tiny chains for the camshafts. It also has two timing belts. One belt connects the crankshaft to the cams, and there is a smaller belt at the rear for the fuel pump.

I just purchased a 2016 TD6 with 68,000 miles on it. The engines have a pleasing sound and operate really well. I want to maintain the current situation to the best of my ability. I intend to change my oil every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. I am willing to pay more for my piece of mind. What kind of oil and filter do you use? Your feedback is much appreciated. I am researching the differences between 5w30 and 5w40 oils, as well as the distinctions between c1 and c2 specifications.