BizarreBleak

The need for a manual option in the C36 is counterbalanced by the difficulty of creating a workable system that maintains the original appearance. Swapping the ECU is a complex task because to its advanced intelligence, and finding suitable flywheel alternatives is challenging. After assembling a 201 with a 3.6 104 engine, using a 23/2.5-16V gearbox and C36 ecu, I get great pleasure from driving it! The M113 is very compatible with the 722.6 gearbox.

What is the purpose of the handbook or the bracket?

The availability of the 203 is much higher. The 208 6-speed gearbox is an NSG400. Additionally, the 00 208 model has the same chassis as the 00 202 model, making it a suitable straight replacement with the M111 engine. Due to the M104 being positioned around 20mm farther back than the M111, it is not a direct match. However, it is not challenging to make the necessary modifications.

Greetings, everyone. Is anybody currently using a factory 6-speed W208 in this group? I am putting the system in a C36, with the modified gearbox tunnel components to support it. I would want to inquire about the method by which the 6-speed shifter (202/208 267 02 24) is fastened to the transmission tunnel cross member. The original bracket is insufficiently broad and lacks pre-drilled holes. The EPC indicates that there was just one bracket available for all 202/208 models. In later iterations, such as the W203, this bracket is incorporated into the shifter.

Why not specify the exact website instead of using the vague term 'a well-known'... since there are hundreds of low-quality sites out there... Without adequate lock specifications or visual representations, it is difficult for anybody to acquire further knowledge.

Does the toothbrush charger function for charging keys? I have encountered it online but have not yet attempted it.

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Hello, everybody. I would want to inquire if anybody has encountered this issue and if there is a remedy to address it. I am displeased with the lack of symmetry between the two body segments. I am including photographs as a gesture of gratitude to all those involved.

Khumo performed poorly on a rear-wheel drive vehicle with 700 Newton metres of torque. I have had several complaints on the Pirelli, which is somewhat unexpected. The Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric offers exceptional performance, stability, and grip. I have not yet had the opportunity to experience the Michelin. Thus far, I have refrained from using them due to the fact that when I installed them on a 97 horsepower vehicle during the summer season in a very warm climate, the tyre experienced significant wrapping.

I concur that the Kumho tyres' insufficient traction compared to the Goodyear tyres, as well as their inadequate stability when cornering, make them an unworthy choice. Additionally, it is probable that you may want two sets of them within a year.

Apologies, I had Kumho tyres.

In a time of vulnerability and urgency, I had two of them on my buttocks. Their duration was less than 9 months, covering a distance of 5000 kilometres.

Have a pleasurable experience! I owned a 22 494 SVR. Thoroughly enjoyed every moment of owning it. No issues. I shed tears when I exchanged it for my '23 First Edition.

Audi is now demonstrating forward-thinking. I comprehend that they were repurchasing certain press vehicles and refurbishing them from the first generation. Presumably, they are already anticipating the future and reserving the last R8 for display at the museum.

Indeed they did. 🙂 The dealers used a dipstick while maintaining the vehicles that lacked one, believing they could monopolise the service business by removing it.

You may purchase the appropriate sensor and choose to keep it installed if desired. The decision by the manufacturer to choose for a sensor instead of a dipstick while still accommodating a tube was illogical.

Now you understand the reason why the prior owner sold it.

If you see oil leaks beneath, it is quite likely that the oil cooler seals are the cause. The oil cooler is located at the bottom centre of the V-shaped engine. The misting and leaks in the photos are not connected to the oil cooler, but the intake components in the V-shaped area need to be removed to access the cooler. It is advisable to remove the undertray and inspect from below to identify the source of the oil leak. After purchasing the oil cooler, new gaskets and seals for the intake components, the parts cost will be about £3-400. If someone else is doing the work, anticipate a total charge somewhat beyond £1,000. It is advisable to clean the manifolds while they are removed, despite being a filthy task. Avoid going to a big dealer since the cost will be quite high.

I am eager to see the impact AAA will have on me. I have insurance for three vehicles and my home at a decent cost. However, my price increased significantly when the insurance company unexpectedly changed the annual mileage for my R8 from 3,500 to 12,000 miles. Those days of bewilderment were enjoyable.

I was unable to make it function successfully even once. Now I am questioning if I possess this feature. PHEVs may not possess it. My P550e may not particularly have it.

Thank you so much, you are a lifesaver. I located the module, disconnected it, and the irritating warning sound has ceased. I currently have an inspection light on, but I am confident in my ability to resolve the issue. Thank you again, friend.

I have been attempting to locate this module, but I have been unsuccessful in my efforts. Could you kindly provide me with the location?

Unfortunately, no.