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The red and green indicators are almost in line, but they are never perfectly aligned; more recently, the vehicle has been leaning to the right while the left side is somewhat lowered. There is a slight tilt to the left side. As an alternative, it can be the other way around or have the back overly elevated. The highway icon is missing from the dial; I thought I had it. It does seem to be on the diagnosis tablet, which is confusing me.

OK. If your dual-mode shock absorbers are linked incorrectly or damaged, they will automatically switch to the hard Dynamic mode, which is represented by the highway icon. Perhaps that is the cause of the severe suspension, thus it's something you should investigate. You might want to check the alignment of your wheel level sensors in case that's the root of your levelling issues. When the vehicle is almost level, what does the 4x4 onto screen show? The four little red lights that each wheel on the screen displays. Where do they stand?

To begin with, I apologise for the delay in responding. It is a 2007 model, and it does feature the highway emblem, if that is the dynamic mode you are referring to.

Which year model are you referring to? Could you please confirm if the Terrain Response dial has the Dynamic mode?

Excuse me, Since we disassembled the automobile, I've been dealing with this issue. Prior to it, the vehicle drove flawlessly straight and true, without any balancing problems whatsoever. The U0155-87 error code was the most prominent of many issues that surfaced following the split. Once we were able to rebalance the car, the inaccuracy went away, but it's still not entirely level. The right side of the back of the vehicle is elevated above the remainder of the vehicle, and the back of the vehicle appears lifted in comparison to the front. There is a constant whistling sound when I'm travelling at high speeds. The ride is fairly harsh, and the back end is incredibly springy. From time to time, I'll notice that the automobile is sitting with one side entirely raised and the other side totally dropped. My previous attempts: Depleting the air reservoir. Compressor replacement. Struggling to adjust the level (very difficult right now) I would be eternally grateful for any insight you can provide as to the nature of the issue, its probable origins, or your own personal experience with a comparable situation. Fixing this has been an absolute nightmare. Much obliged.

Same as before, base your purchase of a used car on how good you think it is, even if it is 20 years old. Transmission type shouldn't be your main concern. One vehicle may be in excellent enough shape to be considered a "keeper" while the other may be more suited for "parts" even though they are both the same age and specifications.

Just as when you buy a car, there are other conditions. There might be a lot of problems with an unused vehicle for that amount of time. Although the later 7-speed isn't unreliable, the earlier 5-speed is famous for its extreme reliability; yet, both require proper servicing. "Excellent reviews from the service points"—what exactly does that mean?

In my area, I came across two vehicles: a 2006 WDC1648221A153764 and a 2008 WDC1648221A425361.The 2006 vehicle has been well-maintained and is utilised on a regular basis, although the second option was unavailable from 2013 until November 2025.The gearbox in the 2008 model is newer and has the number 722902 01 761122, whereas the one in the 2006 model is older and has the number 722902 00 740542.What suggestions do you have for me?The service points have nothing but praise for both vehicles.Give me a ballpark figure on the distance, please.Much obliged.

Fascinating development. Here is a little heat that I have. I was using the rear seat heater while driving, but I can't tell if the blower motor is functioning or not. I realised I was getting heat from the vents after turning it off but leaving the front running. A minuscule amount. I am uncertain if this suggests any alternative paths. In any case, I've been wanting a power probe for my classic for a while now, so I'm going to get one from the fsr just in case.

Have you connected the power? If so, where? A power probe will be ordered by me. With the pins? Or perhaps to the FSR?

Once the FSR is fully placed, it is secured to the HVAC box using a plastic clip/detent. To detach, just pull the fastening clip in the opposite direction and remove the FSR. To disconnect the electrical plug, compress the two symmetrical retention clips on the connector. To help you identify the two stronger wires that connect the outlet to the blower motor, I've included some images in this email. In case you were wondering, I "send" 12v to the blower motor during testing by using a little Lion battery with a pair of crocodile clipped wires. It makes no difference either way you connect the 12v supply to the blower motor if the plug is detached from the FSR. Connecting it in a "backwards polarity" manner will just cause it to spin in the opposite direction of original rotation.

to verify or disprove the possibility, connect directly 12v to the blower. I thought the heat resistor was a typical place for them to break.

It seems like your HVAC module is functioning properly because the lower speed switch has the correct number of orange dots glowing on its outer band for a defrost instruction. A faulty commutator on the armature of the blower motor itself or an FSR problem could also be to blame :(. To test if the blower motor turns over when connected to a different 12v supply, you can unhook the FSR connector and bridge the pins to the motor. This will help you diagnose and rule out the blower motor as a possible problem.

Oh no, it's not. Assuming this is what you mean. The front HVAC system remains turned off when the back system is turned off.

Will the blower fan turn on under the same conditions if you set it to maximum defrost?

This is a proactive post to ensure that I can order all I could need—I have not yet dug in another. The problem is that my HVAC system turns on, but no air is being expelled. Nothing wrong with the back HVAC. I had a lengthy, chilly trip this morning, so that was a godsend. Fsr is the only one that has shown up in my research. Is anything else required? I've had no problems with anything up until yesterday night. Driving was the only strange thing; I turned up the heat, but it wasn't too hot. Thus, perhaps it was fuelling up on my journey. In most cases, I only need to turn on one or two lights for the blower to do its job. I just attributed it to the cold weather and didn't give it much thought. It's a supercharged 2008 model. The fan isn't making any noise at all. Absolutely nothing. To reiterate, it appears to be functioning because the lights turn on. Please inform me if there is anything else that needs to be checked or replaced. Also, is one particular brand recommended?

😍

I took your suggestion to heart and went back down to try again; this time I was successful in removing it. Using a pair of grips, I was able to pop the nut up and onto the thread. Now I'm waiting for my new motor to arrive, but in the meantime, I'll just put a couple of washers on it.

😉

For that task, a Dremel would be the right tool to use. Just like I mentioned before, wait to attach the wiper arm after you've let the vehicle run and park before installing the replacement. Otherwise, you might find yourself wiping the number plate again, haha.

I have taken everything apart, but I still can't get that nut off. I've ordered a used motor to replace the broken one. My plan is to use a hack saw to try cutting through the steel bit that connects the motor to the wiper. If that doesn't work, I'll resort to bolt cutters. The only other option I can think of is to use bolt cutters. I'm afraid I overtightened the nut, and now it's below the threads. I don't have enough leverage to try and catch it.

Okay, I'll take care of it. The motor is still functional, but it wipes in the opposite direction. Does anyone have any suggestions for removing it? The nut is spinning in place.

You may get a used wiper motor on eBay or at a scrapyard. Put the wiper arm on only after you've tried the engine and parked.

Greetings everyone, I was on my way home from work when, twenty minutes later, I noticed my window wiper was hanging down and wiping below the badge when I heard this strange noise. I took the cap off to find that the bolt needed tightening. I did that, but it kept wiping down the same way. I reset it in place and tightened it again, but now the bolt just spins and won't loosen. It's still wiping down the same way. I tried to remove the bolt, but it just spins, as if the treads had worn away. I'm at a loss. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Your thorough explanation is much appreciated. I think I've finished planning my weekend project 🙂