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https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=bmw+5+series&_sacat=9801&_dmpt=Automobiles_UK&_odkw=&_osacat=9801&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181132&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512Xf5dfb5ba64df728430779e8747395189&subId2=15

We must define 'typical camber runoff.' In the W204, if I release the steering wheel on a motorway with minimal road camber, it will veer into another lane within around two seconds. My BMW 5 Series maintains a steadfast trajectory when moving forward. On a more cambered road, such as a quality A road, the Mercedes may achieve a curb manoeuvre in approximately one second, whilst the BMW could take around ten seconds.

It is unfortunate that the camber issue has dissuaded you from the vehicle.I have operated several 204 models and have not experienced anything beyond the typical camber drift observed when releasing the steering wheel, which is common in most vehicles. I concur with your assessment of the engine; even in my heavier 212, it possesses ample power. The 540 Nm of torque at 1600-2400 rpm rivals that of significantly more powerful vehicles, and it is torque that is perceptible when accelerating, rather than horsepower. My vehicle has accumulated 100,000 miles. It produces an appealing sound when accelerated! I achieve marginally superior miles per gallon on the freeway (measured)...perhaps I own a lighter foot...or possibly the gearing on the E differs.

I would like to provide some input for prospective purchasers of the OM642-engined S204/W204. Favourable: Approaches the intermediate speed of a '55' AMG, sufficiently rapid for road use and enjoyable. Pleasant resonance from the subdued V6 engine. Not silent, but in comparison to the canal boat ambiance of the four-cylinder Mercedes engine, this was akin to the Silver Ghost standard. Exceptional chassis dynamics, navigates corners akin to a 3 Series. Favourable fuel efficiency for extended journeys at or below 70 mph, namely 38-40 mpg contingent on conditions (but consistently at least 10% more optimistic than the displayed readout). Mine had approximately 120,000 miles and was dependable during the 20,000 miles I owned it. Attractive vehicle despite its age. Compact dimensions, practical for transporting loads, yet easy to manoeuvre in parking situations. A 12-year-old Mercedes devoid of corrosion is remarkable! It was nearly ideal for my needs, except for the steering. For prospective purchasers: ensure that it does not have a persistent tendency to veer left consistently. Unsatisfactory: Severe design defect related to steering, which prompted my decision to sell it. It exhibited significant sensitivity to road camber. It veered left predominantly because to the leftward camber of the roadway, namely on the left side of the road crown. Consequently, while on holiday overseas, it veered to the right when driving on the right side of the road. On level ground, it did not exhibit pulling; hence, I do not consider this to be an alignment issue. I am not referring to a standard moderate drift; rather, this was an immediate and persistent pull to the left (or right when driving on the right). It infuriated me. Note Kindly refrain from directing me to the WheelsInMotion sticky topic. With with respect, it is illogical to adjust caster and camber to prevent a Mercedes from veering left, only to induce a rightward pull on level surfaces or during international driving. Particularly since the majority of vehicles do not require this 'oval racing' type of asymmetrical configuration. Furthermore, I had the wheel alignment performed at Micheldelver Protyre, which resulted in minimal improvement. Furthermore, I currently possess a BMW that consistently maintains a straight trajectory, regardless of the road's camber. Research indicates that this issue only affects W204 models from around 2012, while other models remain unaffected. Strange and bothersome (at least from my perspective - many on this site disagree). Had the alignment assessed at Micheldelver Protyre, who, after charging over £300 and adjusting the caster/camber to create a staggered configuration, stated, “all resolved now, sir.” I observed that it remained unfixed within a distance of 200 feet. I returned and remarked, “Excuse me, this is scarcely different from when I submitted it,” to which the mechanic replied, “They are all similar; very difficult to repair.” That information would have been more appropriately conveyed prior to the expenditure of over 300 pounds. Additionally, other minor grievances: Annoying little rattles and squeaks. I addressed most issues by the judicious application of anti-squeak tape and wedges, but the primary source of the buzzing sound was the seatbelt tensioner, which I remedied by inserting sponges beneath the trim. In my opinion, it is inappropriate to be making these repairs on a luxury vehicle. The dashboard gauges: Lexus gauges exemplify the ideal appearance for Mercedes gauges. In contrast, contemporary Mercedes vehicles appear as though the dials were conceived by Amstrad, characterised by geometric lines and excessive intricacy, lacking clarity and sophistication. My 40-mile round trip to the office during winter yielded 34 miles per gallon when driving with utmost caution, and perhaps 36-38 miles per gallon on extended journeys. The performance was satisfactory, but it warrants attention. Severe suspension and low-profile tires. It was aesthetically pleasing; nevertheless, on southern highways characterised by poor surfaces composed of small stones rather than gravel, it frequently proved uncomfortable and noisy. Indeed, I believe that tyre noise was a factor that detracted from its performance. The seats were neither uncomfortable nor exceptionally comfortable. The central dash illumination activated only at a certain period, rather than in conjunction with the headlights. If the day was overcast and the headlights were activated, the central dashboard would remain unilluminated. Unusual design defect. It is evident that, had it not been for the peculiar steering, this would have been a valuable acquisition. That is just unfortunate.

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I have provided them with two Toyotas that have minimal mileage and have been carefully maintained. I am aware that they do not genuinely value it and fail to care for them adequately. They did not clear space in the two-car garage to safeguard either party. Trust me, no one has ever bestowed upon me a vehicle without compensation! It was amusing because when I purchased the RAV4 in 2017, two dealerships offered me $4,000 for a trade-in. I stated, "I will donate it rather than allow you to possess it for that price!" It appears to have approximately 76,000 miles on it. While returning home, approximately 70 miles away, I received a call from the dealer in Urbana, IL. He stated that if you return today, we will provide you with $7000. I recently conversed with my son and informed him that I would accept any amount he could obtain for the 2002 Camry I had given him. I was pleased to inform the dealership that this elderly woman is not as naïve as they presumed. It ultimately resulted in a concession since my son believed I was independently affluent, which is far from reality. I hope I brought you joy today!

Ha ha...Indeed, I have been informed of the degradation of the dashboard and steering wheel rubber. Either the temperature in Vancouver is not sufficiently high, or my Solara has been well sheltered in a garage or carport, as there are no indications of tackiness or melting thus far.

I retained my 2008 Solara for eight years before transferring it to my son. I opted to purchase a Rav4. I have had Toyota automobiles since 1990. The one complaint was the deteriorating dashboard after I relinquished it! I purchased a cover for it because I prefer to maintain items in optimal condition. I believe I expended approximately $200 on it, yet I have never even encountered it!

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I believe the wording of the "serpentine" belt was inaccurate. Only three belts should be present in your vehicle: the timing belt, the AC/alternator belt, and the power steering belt. If there is documentation of the serpentine being replaced, it is quite probable that it was the timing belt. I presume the spark plugs and water pump were replaced concurrently with the timing belt, as they ought to have been. I would replace the plugs if they have not been replaced, and I would note to replace the water pump with the subsequent timing belt change if it has not already been replaced. The oil cap is not a conclusive location for assessing sludge. If you maintain communication with the previous owner, enquire about the driving habits—primarily short, urban trips or numerous longer journeys of 30-45 minutes (my approximate estimation of what may be adequate) that would have elevated the oil temperature, facilitating moisture evaporation and the combustion of residual fuel. If you remain apprehensive about potential sludge, procure a new front cam cover gasket, remove the front cam cover, and inspect the interior. If sludge is present, remove the intake manifold and rear cam cover to eliminate all sludge. Additional gaskets will be necessary if the rear cam cover is removed. There may be further items you wish to consider for replacement; but, I would not be concerned about those that appear to be functioning adequately. In the course of a forthcoming timing belt repair, the water pump, tensioner, and idler pulley will be addressed. I have successfully used the original components for 300,000 miles without any indications of breakdown, so there is no need for concern regarding these parts. Additionally, assess the replacement of the front engine seals on both camshafts and the crankshaft during the forthcoming timing belt replacement. The modification is rather simple; simply view a YouTube video on procedures and methods to prevent damage to the new seals during installation. Examine the hue of your radiator. If it has a yellowish-green tinge, it is likely original and may be deteriorating in brittleness. The plastic undergoes a colour transformation over time.While attempting to detach the oil filter during an oil change, I inadvertently applied pressure to the top radiator hose nipple, resulting in its fracture. It is an excellent engine. Enjoy!

Greetings, another first-generation Solara from British Columbia. 👌

Greetings, everyone. My primary vehicle is a 2004 four-cylinder Camry with 148,000 kilometres, which I purchased privately approximately three years ago after totalling my 2005 3.3 Solara in an accident. I recently purchased a 2000 3.0L Solara coupe from a used car dealership, in excellent condition, with approximately 197,000 kilometres on it, as I have a strong affection for and nostalgia for the Solara. The vehicle was acquired new and maintained consistently, as indicated by the Carfax report, at a local Toyota dealership, but the comprehensive history report commences in 2006. I contacted the dealership (West Coast Toyota) to verify the report's integrity and to ensure there were no irregularities from the auto lot, as I have encountered manipulated Carfax reports at less respectable establishments in the past. The dealership's service records extended barely four years but appeared to validate their accuracy. The vehicle appeared to have oil and filter changes annually, around every 10,000 kilometres. Upon inspecting the oil cover, I observed some muck, which is typical for the 3.0 L engine. I am considering performing an engine flush before transitioning to a high-quality synthetic lubricant. The records indicate that the gearbox oil was flushed at around 88,000 kilometres, but there is no indication of an engine flush. Do you have any opinions on the efficacy of performing a flush on a high-kilometer engine? I am enquiring regarding the timing belt, as there are no records of its replacement, save from documentation saying that the drive belts were inspected and the serpentine belt was replaced at 161,000 kilometres (June 2019). The dealership indicated that the belt was likely replaced at an independent garage due to the high costs associated with their services. The Carfax report indicated that the starter was privately replaced in 2014 at 132,000 kilometres. The automobile appears to be in superb condition. The vehicle operates efficiently, and documents demonstrate that components such as brakes and coolant have been routinely maintained. What are your opinions regarding the engine flush and timing belt? Thank you.

I was referring to the leak-down test. I apologise for the improper designation. I would be concerned about utilising compressed air to secure valves due to the potential for a disruption in the air supply. There is excessive risk involved for me!

You have not provided the kilometres travelled, the state in which it has been maintained (history), the type of engine oil used, or the distance between oil and filter changes, which are necessary for making assessments of its potential condition. I trust you will find this beneficial.

Compressed air can also be utilised on a regulator, through the spark plug port, to elevate the valves, typically for the purpose of replacing the valve stems. Similar to the apparatus employed for leak-down compression testing, this method is superior as it pinpoint the source of the problem. A compression test will just indicate the presence of an issue, which I believe you may be referencing with 'pressure tests'. YouTube features films comparing 'compression tests and leak-down compression tests,' regardless of the engine type, if this piques your curiosity.

The PCV valve may malfunction, and the baffles in the valve cover may become obstructed, allowing excessive oil to enter the air intake system as an additional potential cause. This may occur when fragments of a wet belt induce a failure mode, albeit it is not the sole cause of failure. This would be a more economical component to inspect or replace, and the aforementioned test would not detect this issue. The PCV valve is typically integrated into the valve cover and may be serviceable; one can either clean the baffles or replace the entire valve cover, which includes the valve. Examine the intake at the MAP sensor for excessive oil, or trace the smaller pipe (about 17-19mm ID) that connects the valve cover to the air intake and inspect the source. The PCV system manages blow-by gases in the engine, and while all engines possess a mechanism for this management, it is particularly crucial in turbocharged engines, which generate greater blow-by compared to natively aspirated engines. The mechanisms employed for regulation include Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV), Closed Crankcase Ventilation (CCV), and Open Crankcase Ventilation (OCV), the latter of which is virtually obsolete under emission regulations, thus applicable only to vehicles manufactured prior to the 1970s or utilised in racing or off-road contexts where emission standards are not enforced. PCV and CCV appear to be identical systems; however, the primary distinction in CCV is that the ECU must consider all the air. Your vehicle is equipped with a PCV control system, but only Peugeot diesel models utilise a CCV control system. The majority of diesel engines utilise CCV; however, certain models, such as Cummins, employ PCV control. On these engines, it is possible to install BOVs on the turbo without causing the ECU to malfunction, including stalling the engine due to unmonitored air. While BOVs are not essential for diesel engines, some enthusiasts appreciate the sound they produce.

Reports indicate that the 1.2 Purecrap engine may have excessive oil consumption for two reasons. The first issue arises from the valve stem oil seals, while the second results from deteriorated oil control rings on the pistons. Pressure testing can determine the situation. If the valve stem oil seals are defective, they can be replaced in situ using a method known as the coiled rope technique in the combustion chamber. I lack direct experience on this matter. Piston rings necessitate additional disassembly of the engine.

Hello, my 2014 308 1.2 turbo appears to be consuming an excessive amount of oil. Until recently, there were no issues, but now it seems to use more oil than anticipated—approximately one quart per 1,000 kilometres.Do you have any opinions? Many thanks

You may consult an independent automotive gearbox specialist for guidance, and if you decide to change the fluid, Toyota would remain unaware unless you disclose this information.

Indeed, that is my apprehension. I am unaware of what they towed. If they were towing an inappropriate load, it could have exerted additional strain on the gearbox. Do you believe that the fluid change is warranted?

If I recall correctly, the official legal towing capacity for a first-generation C-HR hybrid is merely 750 kg. It should have solely been towing a modest trailer or a bicycle carrier.

I understand. I am apprehensive about potential issues arising later, similar to my previous vehicle, however I have received positive feedback regarding the ECVT. I observe others suggesting that the fluid ought to be replaced, leaving me uncertain on the appropriate course of action. My primary worry is that I was unaware, until I arrived at the store to purchase the vehicle, that it was equipped with a tow bar. This suggests that the car may have been utilised for towing a caravan at some point, which I recognise is not optimal for this particular model. Consequently, I felt there was an increased justification for changing the fluid. You are correct; the Uber and taxi services in my vicinity predominantly utilise Toyota vehicles. I may endeavour to alleviate my concerns and derive greater enjoyment from the car. I am pleased with my final decision to get this car. I was unprepared for the elevated revolutions produced by the hybrid, as I have never owned one before. Aside from that, I adore the vehicle.

The E-CVT employed in a Toyota hybrid is fundamentally robust owing to its mechanical simplicity. I have not encountered a single instance of failure, despite the existence of millions, many of which are utilised for extensive taxi travel. The E-CVT is a mechanical epicyclic gearbox devoid of friction components that could contaminate the oil.

The likelihood of marrying Drew Barrymore is less than that of a Toyota hybrid E-CVT malfunctioning.

My 2019 CHR recently underwent its 60,000-mile service at 42,000 miles, and while the spark plugs were replaced, the technicians showed no interest in changing the CVT fluid. The annual servicing of the vehicle by Toyota ensures the continued validity of the 10-year guarantee, which ideally would encompass the expense of a new CVT in the event of failure. If I have someone else change the fluids, I believe Toyota would deny any further repairs.