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Same as before, base your purchase of a used car on how good you think it is, even if it is 20 years old. Transmission type shouldn't be your main concern. One vehicle may be in excellent enough shape to be considered a "keeper" while the other may be more suited for "parts" even though they are both the same age and specifications.

Just as when you buy a car, there are other conditions. There might be a lot of problems with an unused vehicle for that amount of time. Although the later 7-speed isn't unreliable, the earlier 5-speed is famous for its extreme reliability; yet, both require proper servicing. "Excellent reviews from the service points"—what exactly does that mean?

In my area, I came across two vehicles: a 2006 WDC1648221A153764 and a 2008 WDC1648221A425361.The 2006 vehicle has been well-maintained and is utilised on a regular basis, although the second option was unavailable from 2013 until November 2025.The gearbox in the 2008 model is newer and has the number 722902 01 761122, whereas the one in the 2006 model is older and has the number 722902 00 740542.What suggestions do you have for me?The service points have nothing but praise for both vehicles.Give me a ballpark figure on the distance, please.Much obliged.

Fascinating development. Here is a little heat that I have. I was using the rear seat heater while driving, but I can't tell if the blower motor is functioning or not. I realised I was getting heat from the vents after turning it off but leaving the front running. A minuscule amount. I am uncertain if this suggests any alternative paths. In any case, I've been wanting a power probe for my classic for a while now, so I'm going to get one from the fsr just in case.

Have you connected the power? If so, where? A power probe will be ordered by me. With the pins? Or perhaps to the FSR?

Once the FSR is fully placed, it is secured to the HVAC box using a plastic clip/detent. To detach, just pull the fastening clip in the opposite direction and remove the FSR. To disconnect the electrical plug, compress the two symmetrical retention clips on the connector. To help you identify the two stronger wires that connect the outlet to the blower motor, I've included some images in this email. In case you were wondering, I "send" 12v to the blower motor during testing by using a little Lion battery with a pair of crocodile clipped wires. It makes no difference either way you connect the 12v supply to the blower motor if the plug is detached from the FSR. Connecting it in a "backwards polarity" manner will just cause it to spin in the opposite direction of original rotation.

to verify or disprove the possibility, connect directly 12v to the blower. I thought the heat resistor was a typical place for them to break.

It seems like your HVAC module is functioning properly because the lower speed switch has the correct number of orange dots glowing on its outer band for a defrost instruction. A faulty commutator on the armature of the blower motor itself or an FSR problem could also be to blame :(. To test if the blower motor turns over when connected to a different 12v supply, you can unhook the FSR connector and bridge the pins to the motor. This will help you diagnose and rule out the blower motor as a possible problem.

Oh no, it's not. Assuming this is what you mean. The front HVAC system remains turned off when the back system is turned off.

Will the blower fan turn on under the same conditions if you set it to maximum defrost?

This is a proactive post to ensure that I can order all I could need—I have not yet dug in another. The problem is that my HVAC system turns on, but no air is being expelled. Nothing wrong with the back HVAC. I had a lengthy, chilly trip this morning, so that was a godsend. Fsr is the only one that has shown up in my research. Is anything else required? I've had no problems with anything up until yesterday night. Driving was the only strange thing; I turned up the heat, but it wasn't too hot. Thus, perhaps it was fuelling up on my journey. In most cases, I only need to turn on one or two lights for the blower to do its job. I just attributed it to the cold weather and didn't give it much thought. It's a supercharged 2008 model. The fan isn't making any noise at all. Absolutely nothing. To reiterate, it appears to be functioning because the lights turn on. Please inform me if there is anything else that needs to be checked or replaced. Also, is one particular brand recommended?

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I took your suggestion to heart and went back down to try again; this time I was successful in removing it. Using a pair of grips, I was able to pop the nut up and onto the thread. Now I'm waiting for my new motor to arrive, but in the meantime, I'll just put a couple of washers on it.

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For that task, a Dremel would be the right tool to use. Just like I mentioned before, wait to attach the wiper arm after you've let the vehicle run and park before installing the replacement. Otherwise, you might find yourself wiping the number plate again, haha.

I have taken everything apart, but I still can't get that nut off. I've ordered a used motor to replace the broken one. My plan is to use a hack saw to try cutting through the steel bit that connects the motor to the wiper. If that doesn't work, I'll resort to bolt cutters. The only other option I can think of is to use bolt cutters. I'm afraid I overtightened the nut, and now it's below the threads. I don't have enough leverage to try and catch it.

Okay, I'll take care of it. The motor is still functional, but it wipes in the opposite direction. Does anyone have any suggestions for removing it? The nut is spinning in place.

You may get a used wiper motor on eBay or at a scrapyard. Put the wiper arm on only after you've tried the engine and parked.

Greetings everyone, I was on my way home from work when, twenty minutes later, I noticed my window wiper was hanging down and wiping below the badge when I heard this strange noise. I took the cap off to find that the bolt needed tightening. I did that, but it kept wiping down the same way. I reset it in place and tightened it again, but now the bolt just spins and won't loosen. It's still wiping down the same way. I tried to remove the bolt, but it just spins, as if the treads had worn away. I'm at a loss. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Your thorough explanation is much appreciated. I think I've finished planning my weekend project 🙂

Cut Power to the Battery (Hard Reset) If the warning lights are on, clearing the ECU will reset any stored fault codes and turn them off momentarily. Cons: The ECU will not remember any changes made to idle speed, throttle position, or fuel trim. When a Toyota's engine isn't drivable, the Check Engine (CEL) light and Traction Control (TRAC) light will often both come on at the same time. As soon as the electronic control unit detects abnormal engine power, such as misfiring or stalling, traction control can be disabled. P2401 + emission-related codes, most likely in the EVAP system, were the ones that AutoZone used to provide. Failed EVAP Vent Solenoid/Purge Valve A malfunctioning vent solenoid is the source of the P2401 code. Rough idling and stalling can be caused by a blocked purge valve. Steam Leaks These symptoms can be caused by any broken hose that connects the EVAP system to the intake manifold or the throttle body. Restored MAF sensor Instead of carb cleaner, use the correct MAF cleaner. Thoroughly scrub the throttle body Specifically, the plate and the passive air spaces around it. Evaluate components of EVAP Vent solenoid and purge valve operation. Look for breaks or separations in the hoses. To find vacuum leaks, while the engine is idle, spray carb cleaner around the hoses; if the RPM changes, the leak is located. Allow the vehicle to idle for ten to fifteen minutes after cleaning so it can retrain itself on the proper throttle and idle positions.

I would say that I have taken an interest in doing some basic auto stuff on my own in the past year or two. Services such as oil changes, radiator drains and refills, brake pad replacements, and so on. Usually I take it to this auto parts store to get it read out since I don't have access to a code scanner.

Gas cap replacement had no noticeable impact. A gas cap is designed to repair damaged or loose seals, therefore that's perfectly normal. By itself, a replacement cap won't fix an EVAP system that has a faulty solenoid or other component. Can you find a code scanner? How mechanically inclined are you?

To learn more about P2401's diagnosis, watch the video below.