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If the vehicle operates normally under moderate acceleration but fails to downshift when the accelerator is fully depressed, it suggests that the kickdown mechanism is malfunctioning or the gearbox is unresponsive to the kickdown command. If this is your initial automobile, to clarify its operation, you must fully depress the pedal to prompt a downshift when desired. The accelerator switch should inform the gearbox control unit that a lower gear is required to accelerate beyond the typical leisurely or efficiency settings employed by most vehicles. If the detection is erroneous, the downshift will not occur, and you will proceed at the more leisurely rate you have described. To verify this, locate a level road or freeway and drive at approximately 40 mph, which should indicate that you are in the highest gear. Subsequently, press your foot into the carpet and monitor whether the revolutions increase. If the revolutions do not increase, it indicates that the kickdown is not being sensed, likely due to a malfunctioning accelerator switch. An increase in revolutions while maintaining a slow speed indicates a worn clutch pack or a failure of the gearbox to respond to the downshift request, suggesting either an internal gearbox defect or an issue with the gearbox control module. There is no need for concern regarding over-revving; the primary ECU is equipped with a rev limiter that will prevent this occurrence. However, it may appear somewhat loud if you typically operate around 2500 RPM. My Venga increases by approximately 1500 RPM when I accelerate aggressively and emits a sound indicative of engine distress; yet, it has functioned adequately throughout my 20,000 miles of usage thus far. Ensure that the oil level is enough, as using an engine at high RPMs with insufficient oil might cause harm. I believe that a main dealer or reputable garage equipped with diagnostic tools should be capable of detecting the operation of the kick-down switch and/or manually altering the gearbox on a workshop ramp to assist in identifying the issue. However, you will require a garage equipped with a sophisticated diagnostic tool, rather than a basic ELM327 OBD reader from eBay; it must be capable of communicating with all modules, not solely the engine ECU. Since it is a 2019 model, it is likely still under Kia warranty, making the main dealer a suitable initial point of contact. However, you will likely require a proximate road to demonstrate to them, as they will almost surely refuse to address issues on roads exhibiting this defect and therefore impose a diagnostic cost for a non-warranty claim.

There may be a need to use significant force to initiate a downward kick.

I possess a handbook and have never observed this.

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Manual or Automatic?

I purchased a pre-owned 2019 Kia Stonic 1.0 T-GDi (118 horsepower) 3 ISG. While driving on the interstate at approximately 60 mph, the vehicle occasionally exhibits difficulty in accelerating, even when the throttle is completely engaged, particularly while ascending inclines or across bridges. Has anyone else encountered this problem?

It is important to acknowledge that they are located in Germany, resulting in extended delivery periods and perhaps prolonged return processes. 👍👍

Autodoc

Any reputable motor factors are suitable for consumables.

Components are also in action for me (before, I possessed a vehicle that required less maintenance) 😎

Some main dealers provide discounts to club members. I primarily utilise Autodoc for non-urgent items, while I source filters and other engine-related components, such as water pumps and pulleys, from the main dealer.

I have recently utilised Parts in Motion, either via their website or eBay. Diverse selection of brands, pricing, and delivery options.

What is the optimal location for purchasing automotive components, namely service items such as filters, including gearbox filters, spark plugs, fluids, and similar products? Does anyone here possess a discount for club members?

Approach this information with scepticism. In my 2023 Model 3, equipped with a stalk, I have configured it to activate TACC with a single pull. Subsequently, a double pull for AP; I lack FSD. An option exists to modify it to a single pull to access AP. I personally prefer not to, as there are instances when TACC is more advantageous for me. The road is excessively winding for my preference, or for any other reason. However, if you possess FSD, I am uncertain how that would alter the single pull for TACC and the double pull for FSD.

https://www.tesla.com/support/autopilot

I possess only TACC and Autopilot, not FSD. Prior to November 2024, I possessed a 2018 Model 3, which featured the same setting; I conducted a test to determine if the scroll wheel models also include that setting. The Autopilot manual similarly stipulates this information:

This is due to your lack of a stalk. Vehicles equipped with stalks lost the functionality to toggle between TACC and FSD following the update 2023.44.30.x. Vehicles lacking stalks, such as yours, can utilise the scroll button as you indicated. If there has been a modification allowing an individual with a stalk to transition effortlessly between TACC and FSD without halting the vehicle or altering the mode, or establishing a separate driver profile, that would be valuable information. One would assume Tesla would provide an option for vehicles equipped with stalks to utilise the button, but to my knowledge, they have not. The battery replacement was successful. The replacement was installed, and the alert has disappeared. Avoid tampering with the service menus.

I conducted some testing on your behalf! I now possess a 2024 Model 3 including scroll wheel activation for Autopilot/TACC, without FSD, and equipped with the latest software. The Autopilot settings tab offers an activation choice for "Single Click" or "Double Click," analogous to Single Pull/Double Pull on the stalk. In "Single Click" mode, only Autopilot is engaged, necessitating a modification in settings to activate Traffic-Aware Cruise. In "Double Click" mode, the initial click engages Traffic-Aware Cruise, while the subsequent click enables Autopilot. The distinction is audible, since TACC produces a singular bong sound, but AP emits a dual-tone startup sound.

https://www.notateslaapp.com/software-updates/version/2023.44.30.25/release-notes

Indeed I have not modified it since 2023, allowing me to utilise either TACC or FSD with one or two pulls. When I am in FSD and encounter a pothole, I can disengage FSD, causing the vehicle to revert to TACC. Was it reinstated? I possess an outdated 2018 Model 3 and doubt that the forthcoming improvements will offer any significant enhancements for me.

I apologise for my lack of knowledge, but have you not updated your software since 2023? What do you mean by not wanting to forfeit your double/single pull for EAP/FSD? Currently, in my 2023 Model 3. The initial draw activates cruise control, while the subsequent pull engages adaptive cruise control (AP). I have the choice in the menu to direct a single draw to AP, but I want the capability to use CC.

The Tesla technician who performed my last service in 2022 replaced it in the parking lot without any software involvement. He detached the PCS connection beneath the rear seat, disconnected the battery, substituted it, and thereafter reconnected the PCS.

The most recent versions feature a Learn New Battery option and the capability to switch between various battery kinds. However, I am merely exchanging the same type, so I believe I should be fine.