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I was cautious, yes. I spoke to them more than once, checked their registration details, and looked for independent mentions online before. What helped was that they clearly operate as a transport business first. Their explanations about the segregated account and inspection period were clear and not rushed.

were you not worried about sending the money before the car left Northern Ireland?

Hi @Accomis, I completed a purchase with Lamsam Logistics earlier this year. I bought a 2021 Hyundai Kona that had been repossessed by a lender which was at a very attractive price. So I can say that this company is legit based on my actual experience, not just stories and opinions I read online.

This is my primary concern, as I have never purchased a car online without seeing it first. I typically search various platforms for local cars and visit them in person. However, my daughter seems in love with this car and I want to be sure that Lamsam Logistics are genuine and not a scam, if you understand what I mean.

I’ve noticed ads as well on Fb and I tend to feel a bit apprehensive about cars that seem “too cheap” when buying online. My guideline is that if I can’t at least inspect the car before making a payment, I would reconsider.

I have not dealt with Lamsam Logistics specifically, but repossessed vehicles are not automatically a red flag as I bought a Honda Accord from a finance auction a few years ago and it turned out to be a very solid car. Do your own research as some offers look genuine others don’t.

Hi all, I’m currently looking for a first car for my daughter and found a 2022 Fiat 500 on FB Marketplace posted by Lamsam Logistics. At first I thought it was a private seller, but it turns out they’re a Belfast based transport company that’s also sales repossessed vehicles They’ve offered home delivery to Somerset within 7–10 days. That all sounds convenient, but I’m a bit uneasy about paying before actually seeing the car. Has anyone gone through this? Or did actually purchased from them? I would like to know more about the process, payment, and vehicle. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Yes, mine was opening and then gradually drooping down, making it so that I hit my head almost every time, and it got worse over time. never worried my five-foot wife, though.

Could you tell me which symptoms made you decide that your struts needed to be replaced? Even though there are no other indications of a battery shortage, the erratic nature of our tailboard issue—for example, it opened completely this morning but required manual lifting to be fully raised after a 30-minute drive two days ago—leads me to believe that it might actually be an electrical power issue rather than a strut fault.

Thank you; I understand. All of that sounds simple today.

In your picture on the right, you can see the inset plastic panel. That pops off. Under it, you can access the connection. Simply use a plastic trimmer or anything thin and flexible that isn't made of metal. Additionally, you don't have to touch the duct at the bottom of your picture. The wires at the top carry all of the control wiring.

and (difficultly!) feed the cables through. I'll look around to see if YouTube has anything that can help. I should also mention how elegant your motorcycle looks in dark green.

Particularly the part about no programming, it sounds fantastic. Are you referring to the full-width inside black trim item when you say "pop off the trim"? …: Everything appears to be in one piece. I had assumed that the rubber grommets might need to be removed (see picture).

It's completely plug and play and very simple to install. 1) Tailgate 2) Of course, support it. 3) Remove the plastic coverings on both sides of the tailboard (the connection is behind them). 4) Feed the wire out the sides and unplug the old ones. 5) The strut itself comes out with a little tug when the retaining metal spring clip is removed. 6) For the new ones, the same in reverse 7) finished—no programming and everything is in order.

Since you say that fitting them is very simple, I would give that a shot. I see some nice-looking ones on eBay for AUD $167 each. After the fitting, did you need to recalibrate the electronics? (I also liked the last vehicle wash video.)

After a year, the replacement struts I installed from an eBay provider are still in fantastic condition. incredibly simple. And up until the original ones failed, they were on par with the OEMs. The only problem is that I pre-wrapped the wire in an extra shroud or tape before installation because I thought the wiring shroud was flimsy and prone to splitting.

These are what I fitted, and I was quite pleased with how well they fit and looked. They were also reasonably priced.

Hello everyone According to earlier articles, powered tailgates are a frequent cause of issues with the Evoque. Our 2014 TD's tailboard (90k klms) is steadily becoming less dependable, therefore I'm wondering whether there's a less costly way to replace both struts with LR parts (AUD$1090 each). The symptoms vary, but over the past six months, there has been a gradual decline in function; the patient frequently opens, but now rarely to its full height and occasionally not at all. Both lever and fob activation cause this. I am aware that a weak battery is frequently cited as the cause, but there are no other indications of battery issues, and I am now observing that the tailboard frequently does not open at all when the car arrives at its destination after a respectable drive, which does not seem to be consistent with a weak battery. I believe I'm right when I say that the strut action incorporates both pneumatic and electric/spindle driving components, with the latter reducing the oomph needed for the electrics to function. Is it possible to re-gass the struts? Here, OEM struts are priced at about AUD$500 per. Has anyone found success using eBay or other after-market electric strut replacements? I would be grateful for any other recommendations.

On the A207, the AMG 7 Twin spokes were also offered in a square configuration with front and rear tyre sizes of 235/35/19 (I assume the OP's rear tyre size is a typo).

Retailers of tires and wheels must be thrilled with the state of our roadways at the moment. Kerching! £££

Are you certain that the tires you now have are the right ones? According to a brief search, you should have 275/35x19 in the back and 245/40x19 in the front.

"Thanks So Much" for responding so quickly. I'll take a look at the website you recommend. The Best of the Best

18s will be listed on that website or in the rulebook. However, they do not render you or the vehicle impenetrable to potholes. A few weeks ago, my wife succeeded in puncturing the 225/50/18 tyre on our BMW X1. The 50 profile, I believe, saved the day.

https://www.alloywheelsdirect.net/information/fitting_chart/mercedes-benz