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In my opinion, that car, even in 'non-crashed' condition, was never valued at £35,000 in this world. My 2018 vehicle, which has 44,000 miles, is currently valued at approximately £38,000 according to Motorway. Therefore, with 104,000 miles, even that asking price seems overly ambitious.

Indeed, it must be priced at ten thousand dollars, which likely approximates the amount the seller originally invested. It is an almost eight-year-old vehicle with 100,000 miles on it. It would be challenging to locate an individual willing to spend 30k for it in pristine condition.

Precisely. This may attract individuals capable of performing repairs and who plan to retain it for the long run. Otherwise, it will require a significantly reduced price to facilitate a sale. A platform such as Car Vertical will display images of the damage, and the Cat N designation will remain on record. This is not a vehicle I would consider, whether in its current state or after repairs.

Perhaps £5,000 allocated for materials and £5,000 for labour, thereafter transferring it to a country that overlooks its classification as a write-off? We must not underestimate the potential for unforeseen issues unrelated to crashes that may require repair on a motor with 100,000 miles "con brio." It is difficult to conceive of anyone purchasing it "repaired" in the UK for £30,000, given that it was valued at £35,000 prior to Lemony Snicket's "A Series of Unfortunate Events."

https://www.youtube.com/@matarmstrongmk2

I believe £35,000 is a reasonable estimate considering the miles and the poor condition of the interior. Individuals such as Mat Armstrong would excel at repairing that; but, the expense of new components would be considerable.

I am unfamiliar with such matters, but what was its value at 100k "prior to the misunderstanding?" Did it possess a value above £35,000? If it was sold for £20,000, it is likely destined for Eastern Europe and, after repairs, will proceed to Southern Africa (RHD) or Cyprus.

Currently sold; arriving on YouTube shortly.

That will be operational again; it may require an inexpensive repair.

This appears to be rather simple, especially compared to more challenging repairs shown on YouTube. If I cannot undertake the task myself, I would refrain from engaging with it. Substantial financial resources would be expended, although it would never possess the value of a vehicle with an unblemished background. Additionally, there are insurance complications associated with vehicles that have been totalled. Their decision to write off such a costly vehicle due to purportedly minor damage illustrates the exorbitant costs associated with adequate repairs.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397197431069?_skw=e63+amg+estate&itmmeta=01K8NEJWQ1RGA4JM56QF8MSZAS&hash=item5c7acfd11d:g:uBAAAeSwv7ho~-NX&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1d1nkFBPwhy43bctbrsLFscVk8c8GZ6Ey3Vxz39H4VBlvBBQBWi1KeP4lq8vqea8Iab1mFuBsma8zdvANzuNl/4YVNlfwU6ZUXWBlfKhory5inBg2BzmJEhcB/CUYCXnUJcNx0RyqriUL8vtOtrpj2UPGJ15BasqeMBz+ZUSe0rrDJa75GvOB/Lnlhn9eZhGgpkB2s7OIzcmj1Aj56sMym9I/bNeV2BQvjKF88mXRSfZfuslf5H7aq7ZHpalKu8Ga4GhsgyNm7r58bEOS4vV/iT+lM81cxK7OwhdkHlIs3SSA==|tkp:Bk9SR9zLy67FZg&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X2ea9405ef47c85311967d0e1d7a2343b&subId2=15

Contemplating the feasibility of this concept. And it's already on 100K miles. The rear appears organised, ha ha!

The release bearing is damaged. The subsequent procedure involves seizing and perforating the clutch cover. You must remove the gearbox and replace the clutch. Relatively simple to manage them, even when positioned on axle stands. A new clutch costs approximately £120 for a four-cylinder non-air conditioning model (solid flywheel) and somewhat more for a 328i variant. Adhere to reputable brands such as LuK or Sachs. Typically, the 316i/318i/318is models from that year equipped with air conditioning use a twin mass flywheel.

It would be prudent to install a new clutch concurrently, as it entails the same level of effort.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?id=CB33-USA-06-1995-E36-BMW-325i&mg=21&sg=05&diagId=21_0292&q=21517521471&series=E36

Are you aware of the part number? I will attempt to rectify it.

The issue may likely be the thrust bearing, which can become loud yet function effectively for many years.

However, the noise originates in the gearbox, caused by friction during rotation.

I would examine the number 4 bushings or the springs.

I possess a 1995 E36 with a manual 5-speed transmission, and I am experiencing a noise when depressing the clutch pedal. What is the method to resolve this issue? Is it merely a bearing replacement?

A participant in the new member sticky indicated that the engines are somewhat noisy and that what I am characterising as a "knock" is probably only a standard "tick". I am currently performing an ECM reset and relearn, will manually compute the mileage, and will apply a fuel system cleaning. I will respond with the results. Excellent suggestions, thank you!

https://www.google.com/search?q=ECM+(Engine+Control+Module)&client=safari&sca_esv=92debb9001157326&channel=mac_bm&source=hp&ei=vQABafXyAav1kPIPpMqOkQ8&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaQEOzZtQQQW1YhcC2kZX9hTEKkDuj7LL&oq=2023+camry%2C+how+do+I+reset+the+ecm+and+do+a+rel&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6Ii8yMDIzIGNhbXJ5LCBob3cgZG8gSSByZXNldCB0aGUgZWNtIGFuZCBkbyBhIHJlbCoCCAAyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUiTmQFQAFjVenAAeACQAQCYAW-gAaweqgEENDMuNLgBAcgBAPgBAZgCL6ACzSDCAgsQABiABBiKBRiRAsICDhAuGIAEGLEDGMcBGNEDwgIOEAAYgAQYigUYsQMYgwHCAggQLhiABBixA8ICCxAAGIAEGLEDGIMBwgILEC4YgAQYsQMYgwHCAg4QLhiABBiKBRixAxiDAcICBRAAGIAEwgIKEC4YgAQYigUYQ8ICCBAAGIAEGLEDwgIKEAAYgAQYigUYQ8ICDRAuGIAEGIoFGEMYsQPCAgQQABgDwgIIEC4YsQMYgATCAgUQLhiABMICBxAAGIAEGArCAgYQABgWGB7CAgsQABiABBiKBRiGA8ICCBAAGIkFGKIEwgIFEAAY7wXCAggQABiABBiiBMICBRAhGJ8FwgIFECEYqwKYAwCSBwQ0MS42oAfQ8AKyBwQ0MS42uAfNIMIHCTAuMTAuMzYuMcgHuwE&sclient=gws-wiz&mstk=AUtExfAqathgzG1Xxtms_zVKmWYsF57GP-4Uw0sASgQP7NdcvXTv82qgc-hHMwn2FJTktR3YQC2uWhLYdZWpoVS8uThkGRbwWhJ04cHBJ4JmundhdXRgYAZ4aXahQR67jFk7N5A&csui=3&ved=2ahUKEwi8ocv2uMeQAxWYiI4IHdXIFekQgK4QegQIARAB

If a code and knock were present, I would assume a potential timing issue that the ECM cannot adequately adjust the air/fuel ratio for, possibly indicating a faulty knock sensor. However, that remains mere conjecture at this juncture. I am considering resetting the ECM to enable it to recalibrate based on your driving behaviour. To reset the ECM on a 2023 Camry, detach the battery for a minimum of 10 minutes, then reattach it. Upon reconnection, set the ignition to the "on" position for 1-2 minutes, initiate the engine, allow it to idle for approximately 10 minutes, and thereafter execute a drive cycle encompassing both city and highway speeds to enable the vehicle to recalibrate its parameters.

I utilised the vehicle's trip computer for monitoring miles per gallon. I have not engaged in traditional mathematics, but you are correct; I ought to do so. My scanner is rudimentary, but I am in the process of updating. It produces an unpleasant noise upon cold start, characterised by a rhythmic knock, possibly originating from a specific cylinder, and I believe I can detect a subtle rhythmic sound or knock during warm idle. However, I am unfamiliar with the vehicle and cannot ascertain if it is its typical sound. Ought I should publish or share a video? We have possessed it for merely 10 days; however, it appears to operate adequately, save from the knock, which may not necessarily be problematic. The driver's side visor detached, but it is easily repairable. 43,000 miles. Two proprietors. Delivered to the dealership for routine maintenance. No active or pending codes exist. Thank you for your response!