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Your assistance is greatly appreciated.

Take a look at the BECM_SID manual. This thread (https://www.rangerovers.net/posts/416754/) has the download link. Starting at line 21, the programming of the Land Rover is described, including the order in which parameters are set. Make sure all the other settings, such Engine Type, are right before you execute the Market Set, in my opinion. Since you aren't modifying the BECM's Lockset Code already, you should be able to quickly go into the settings and choose the market. Get in touch with Les by dialling the number provided on the Key Centre website. He should be able to confirm establishing the market without impacting the FOB match and immobiliser since he conducts BECM fixes.

I think Les at the key center I linked to can decipher the lockset barcode into the necessary numbers. However, he was receiving the information from LR, so if Blackbox couldn't, he might not be able to either. If it is the original key, you shouldn't require it. That would be necessary solely in the event that the key came from a different vehicle and you possessed an unlocked BeCM in order to put the code into it. Can the Blackbox Lite (I use a Nanocom Evolution) verify the functionality of the door latch's microswitches? I'm not very well-versed in this product. The only thing that needs syncing is for the keyswitch and CDL switch in the door latch to be in reliable functioning order. If the key you're trying to use hasn't been used for a long time, it might have lost sync.

The response is much appreciated. Twenty years ago, I got a car with three keys—the one I use now is one of them. It is possible to transform the barcode that the dealer provided me with into the code that the BeCM requires. That service is provided by Blackbox Solutions, however they claim to be unable to continue doing so at this time. I had a key specialist in the UK who came highly recommended on this site rebuild key no. 2, as key no. 1 went missing. Even though the P38 is starting and driving now, I'm worried that it won't communicate properly with the car if I use key nr. 2 and set the market using my Blackbox lite, even though this has worked before. My next stop is at the dealer's.

I had one purchased from the dealer—it cost about 350 EUR—and had the body shop cover the expense.

https://lesedwards.co.uk/store/P38-Key-Collection-c175048701

Nothing at all; the immobiliser remains in place regardless of the market you choose. No change to the central locking should occur if the market is not set. It won't operate with any key fob that isn't the one that came with your vehicle. It ought to be operable with the key in the lock or by pressing the sill locking button on one of the entrance doors. During manufacturing, the keyfobs are coded to communicate with the BeCM. It is not possible to utilise a key fob from another vehicle without first obtaining the Lockset Barcode from the original vehicle. Then, this code must be transformed into the 9-digit code required by the BeCM. Finally, the BeCM must be unlocked and the new 9-digit code entered. You won't be able to pair the key with the door lock until then. See your local Land Rover main agent to see whether you can order a replacement keyfob for your car. whether not, you can also try P38 Key Collection - Store - The Key Centre. Collect payment for the replacement from the bodyshop if they misplaced yours.

Hi there, Given that Blackbox is unable to furnish me with the necessary code to enable the BeCM to acquire a new keyfob, I must enquire: If I set the market in the BeCM to "middle-east," would the imobiliser function be disabled but central locking still work when I enter the keyfob into the doorlock and turn it to open and close while holding the button? Right now, it says "market not set" on the screen, so the car starts, but the central locking doesn't work and it has forgotten that it has a sunroof. The whole thing started when the bodyshop lost the fully operational keyfob. So, to reiterate: the market is set to the Middle East; how does this impact the imobiliser function? We deeply value your assistance.

Even if it locks the car, the "beep" won't go off when you walk away from it. Passive locking instructs lockup directly from MY24 Evoque; the "single-lock only" state is an intermediary.

🙂

Thank you all for your replies. Before turning off all electronics and turning on the alarm, I always double-lock the car. Pressing the car's lock button will restore walk-away locking to its default state; otherwise, it will not work. I'm going to try unlocking the approach.

I have both of them turned on, but I lock them by hand. I use them as a backup in case I forget to do it myself. However, I adore the open approach, but I do limit it to the passenger side. Today, I noticed something new—that in order to pull the car up the driveway, I had to wear my seat belt. That certainly wasn't the situation in the vehicle; it simply wouldn't budge! It was my belief that I had broken it 🥂.

It's a brand-new function; I can't say for sure when it debuted, but I think it was with the release of MY24. I tried both the approach unlocking and the walk away locking options, but I ended up disabling both because it was really annoying whenever I washed the car and would unlock again if I was near it with the key in my pocket. I also assumed it didn't double lock the car because it didn't beep, which is my preferred method of security.

Hi there, The keyless entry features of my P300e MY21 do not work when I try to open or close it automatically. To open and close the doors, I still have to use the button on the handle. The Remote app only reminds me to close them if I forget, and if I hit the button twice while closing, I can lock them from the inside. Has this been available on the P270e since MY23, or is it brand new?

Rather than using approach unlock, I consistently employ walk away locking. Been using it for over two years with no problems. Under typical circumstances, it works perfectly fine. However, if you do something strange, like leave the hood up for an hour while you wash the car, it might fail. Checking sure the handles are flush as you leave is always a good idea.

I recently purchased a brand new Tribeca Blue P270e Edition. Similar to my previous experience with an EPace P300e. The last vehicle I drove had a keyless entry system that let me lock and unlock the doors with the touch of a finger. In an odd quirk, the Evoque's door handle retracts when you click the button to double-lock the door. Does the approach unlocking/walk away locking method work? I haven't tried it yet. I'm worried that I won't notice if the car doesn't lock!

There isn't much juice left in high-demand scenarios when the voltage is 11.7 volts, which is less than 30% charged. I can see how it may be low enough to cause problems; it did on mine when I was at a comparable voltage. Also, my automobile usually started the first time, but eventually it stopped. I had to get a new one because it was probably around fifteen years old.

The voltage of 11.7 volts is not low enough to produce these problems on its own. While a dead battery may theoretically lead to ABS/ESP/BAS/TPMS error signals, the voltage you recorded isn't high enough to be the culprit. Usually it's the clock spring (Steering Wheel Position Sensor) or a wheel speed sensor that I wager on, rather than the battery. Having said that, it's likely worth replacing a battery that measures 11.7v overnight before it starts creating trouble.

If I were in charge, I'd check the alternator charging rate against the battery. Unacceptably low at 11.9 volts. Typically, the terminals of the battery will bear the date of manufacture.

My 2013 c180 has been intermittently displaying warnings on the dashboard regarding problems with the ABS and ESP systems, as well as the TPMS system. I expected the battery to be higher after only 15 hours of not driving the car, so I checked it using this site and found that it was 11.9 volts. After that, I purchased a Kingbolen OBD2 module, performed diagnostic tests, and the results are attached to this report. I cleared the codes and ran the test again, but the problems persisted. Based on this, I'm considering that the issues could be caused by the battery, with or without the exception of the wheel speed sensor, which likely needs replacing. I have already tested the actuation tests for the steering column, wipers, etc., and they all worked without faults. I have never replaced the battery in a vehicle less than two years ago, so I have no idea how old this one is. Since the car is stop-start, I am also unsure about which battery to get and whether or not it requires coding.

Thank you. I tried that and even had the two lines connected for 15 minutes to clean the system, but now the malfunction light is back...I don't think there are any bugs in the system, so I might try it again.

Disconnecting the battery at both ends allowed the circuits to discharge completely before reconnecting them on my 2005 S211 with full Airmatic.

Currently, I'm receptive to any and all suggestions, m80! The malfunction light has returned after I cleared the codes and finished the full diagnostic—I'm back to square one!

Totally off base, but I accidentally replugged the gearstick console the other day after taking it out. The choice of sport or comfort was impacted by that.