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Thank you, that is a valid observation. The heater appears to be functioning normally. Completed an extensive motorway trip, and the heater did not exceed the normal temperature. I perceive that the engine is not overheating; nonetheless, this is merely a perception without substantiation. Thank you for the valuable suggestion. "Every seat is first class" - I concur with your assessment; I am new to this vehicle and appreciate its driving experience.

Another concern I encountered with this vehicle, for the benefit of others: Upon acquiring this pre-owned car with 79,000 miles, it exhibited a knocking sound in the back when traversing potholes. The local garage and I could not identify any issues. Their health assessment revealed no indications of bush or joint wear, yet a clunking sound persisted. Ultimately identified the issue through a process of elimination as the rear shock absorbers. No evidence of leaks; nonetheless, internal complications were present. I replaced the rear shocks with new Bilstein units, which were half the price of genuine Mercedes parts, and the vehicle now operates flawlessly.

Another inquiry, the response to which will indicate either a well operating cooling system or an instrument malfunction: does your heater emit hot air during this occurrence? If you are experiencing excessively hot air, it indicates that water is moving through your engine and heater matrix; this suggests a sensor issue.

If you maintain composure when others are losing theirs, you are evidently neglecting the seriousness of the circumstances. Engineering revolves around identifying the most efficient solution. Phil Wang ALFA Romeo: Employing outdated technology to generate future challenges in the present. I like it, such lovely aphorisms. I will include "AMG signifies All Money Gone." As an engineer, I adhere to Ockham's Razor, a problem-solving theory asserting that the simplest explanation with the least number of assumptions is the most like to be accurate. Also referred to as the principle of parsimony, it is utilised for selecting among competing theories. For instance, in the case of a headache, the more straightforward explanation of dehydration is preferred over a more intricate one such as a brain tumour. Your hypothesis regarding the water pump is rational, and I will not dismiss it. I don't think it's an airlock problem. The car is relatively new to me, yet there are no indications of any maintenance performed on the engine or cooling system. The vehicle possesses a complete service history from Mercedes; nonetheless, I will henceforth conduct all maintenance independently. I have recently acquired an xTool D8 scanner and a Picoscope Oscilloscope for comprehensive testing, however I recognise that these may not reveal any issues because the garage conducted all standard assessments. Nonetheless, I can likely conduct live monitoring during the road test with it. I have decided to opt for the more economical choice, a new temperature sender, initially; at 80,000 miles, it is likely a prudent preventative measure. I greatly appreciate your insight.

... not yet. The temperature gauge should remain stable until it reaches the appropriate temperature; thus, any fluctuations indicate considerable variance. My initial action would be to substitute the thermostat and purge the radiator. The pump presents a compelling option; perhaps an expert will arrive shortly to verify whether this is a recognised issue with the engine.

Thank you; I believed that could serve as an effective beginning point. Worth a try.

I encountered the identical issue with my ALFA 156 V6 Veloce 2.5 Busso. It required some time for me to comprehend it. Under typical driving conditions and loads, it functioned adequately; but, at elevated RPMs and loads, when attempting to circulate the water more rapidly, it overheated until I reduced speed, contrary to expectations given the airflow through the radiator at high speeds. The issue was identified as the water pump. The plastic impeller of the water pump was slipping on the shaft under load, obstructing the water flow. Upon replacing the pump, I was able to manipulate the impeller on the shaft using merely firm finger pressure. It appears to be a prevalent problem, as the new ALFA authentic replacement pump had a metal impeller affixed to the shaft by soldering. While it may not apply to your situation, I felt compelled to mention it because of the same symptoms. Have you attempted to bleed it to ascertain the presence of an airlock? Have you disassembled any components of the cooling system recently?

Replace the temperature probe? 🤔

I possess a 2013 C180 (W204) (1600 petrol) BlueEfficiency estate featuring the AMG sport package. The temperature indicator periodically reaches the red zone, seemingly when the engine is under strain, albeit not consistently—typically during prolonged inclines or at high speeds above 70 mph. The "stop engine" alert has occasionally activated. However, I do not believe the engine is genuinely overheated. The coolant is transparent, and there are no indications of head gasket issues. The gauge fluctuates, but as I decelerate, it returns to normal and may operate for hours without issue, remaining within the standard range, provided I do not exert excessive pressure. The Hi Tech Performance Garage conducted a comprehensive inspection and identified no concerns; nevertheless, I question if they performed an extensive road test, subjected it to maximum load, or utilised their rolling road. Do you have any experience with this or any recommendations?

That is a reasonable assertion; but, I wish to upgrade to a more rapid vehicle with a V8 engine. I have owned my 2007 650 for almost 14 years. It was inexpensive at the time of purchase and currently has just 60,000 miles. It requires £1,000 to £2,000 to repair engine and gearbox leaks. I may chose to undertake the repairs and retain the vehicle for an additional three years.

The N63 engine, a critical component of the 2015 650i, has demonstrated significant reliability issues. The 640i is a significantly superior option.

I have never seen mine; they snap at the tips. This is only apparent while navigating corners aggressively. My car is not driven recklessly, since I adhere to speed restrictions approximately 90% of the time.However, they failed; I have owned an E90 330d and an E92 335, and the rear components fractured when stationary in the driveway, as did the front components on the E90.I attribute the issue to speed humps; residents in areas with harsh conditions experience this problem. In my locality, some speed humps necessitate driving at 1 mph, which is detrimental to any suspension system. I consulted a garage owner with 40 years of experience, and he indicated that since the implementation of speed humps, the frequency of suspension component replacements has consistently increased.

I am not an automobile salesperson, therefore I will not be searching for a vehicle on your behalf. 😂 I would prefer to purchase a vehicle with 200,000 miles that has been well-maintained rather than a low-mileage vehicle that is leaking oil, has broken springs, and has suffered a failure of the OEM ball joint, likely due to the excessive pressure from the damaged springs, indicating that the springs have been compromised for an extended period, as most OEM suspension components typically endure 100,000 miles with proper care. Your initial post unwittingly provided the answer to your query; if you must enquire about the worthiness of a risk on a public forum, you are merely seeking validation that the risk is unwarranted. It is likely the reason it is at a Citroën dealership, following the previous owner's realisation of the costs associated with repairs at a BMW dealer, ultimately leading them to opt for a more economical, French vehicle that would be less expensive to maintain in the future.

Locate a 2015 M6 with comparable mileage at a reduced price to economise.

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/dealers/staffordshire/burton-on-trent/jt-cars-10041279?channel=cars

Typically, broken springs would not alarm me; nevertheless, their discovery solely during the MOT stage raises questions about the vehicle's maintenance and care. £20,000 for a 2015 model 650? It may be prudent to purchase the M6 and conserve some funds. 😂 Jokes aside, the individual from whom I procure my pre-owned performance automobiles typically possesses some remarkable options in inventory, and I can personally attest from firsthand experience to his rectification of difficulties that develop post-sale. Currently in possession of a pair of substantial specification 7 and 8 series vehicles that appear to be impressive automobiles. He is undoubtedly deserving of a call, since Josh excels in procuring a diverse array of vehicles, ranging from standard automobiles to Rolls-Royce Cullinans, for his clientele, and his operation is exceptional. His automobile trading page if you wish to browse:

The listed price is £19,990. To repair leaks, the cost ranges from £1,500 to £2,500. If the typical suspects are from an independent garage, is the cost up to £5,000? by BMW thief, but significantly more if it pertains to the head gasket. Concerns arise from two fractured rear coil springs, which may indicate exposure to harsh terrain or aggressive driving. I will provide the URL if permitted by the administrator.

I do not intend to intrude; please direct me as necessary, but what is the price of the car and what is your budget? If it is £3,000 below market value and requires an investment of £1,500, it is likely a favourable offer. If it is priced at market value and requires an expenditure of £1,500, then it constitutes a poor investment.

I am astonished that damaged coils occur in vehicles with such low mileage; they typically manifest in older cars, those subjected to potholes, vehicles used on racetracks, or in extremely cold climates.

The rear components of my 2017 F82 M4 have failed at 36,000 miles. I replaced all four for reassurance, opting for Eibach Sport Pro, which was far more economical than BMW parts.

Hello, I am seeking to replace my 2007 650i with 60,000 miles. I have encountered a 2015 650i M Sport convertible with 28,000 miles online. Nonetheless, the MOT inspection history contains the following: 1. October 2020: FAIL: Offside rear coil spring damaged or broken (5.3.1 (b) (i)) October 2, 2025: FAILURE - Nearside Rear Coil Spring Fractured or Broken (5.3.1 (b) (i)) AND Observe and rectify if required (recommendations): Oil leak, but not excessive Subsection 8.4.1 (a) (i) pertaining to the lower engine compartment The offside front lower suspension arm ball joint exhibits minor play (5.3.4 (a) (i)). The vehicle is located at a Citroen dealership. Do the coil springs on these F series vehicles fracture easily due to misuse? Additional concerns include the oil leak and the arm ball joint. Should I contemplate or disengage? Thank you

Any task above a "two spanner rating" in difficulty Typically, I would be extremely anxious about the prospect of disassembling an engine and subsequently lacking the knowledge to reassemble it. In the past, I resided in less than acceptable neighbourhoods with congested street parking, characterised by limited space and frequent vehicular traffic. I possessed only one jack and a wheel stand, along with a restricted assortment of tools. Reflecting on the past, merely changing the oil or a bulb was a significant accomplishment for me at that time. Adequate driveway, garage, and appropriate tools are essential for undertaking any substantial automotive work, as you are aware.

To be candid, my friend I have the time now, and it is not even related to finances. In my youth, I possessed a HAYNES handbook for each vehicle I owned, intending to undertake numerous tasks. Sequential instructional manuals on paper, which were the primary resources prior to the advent of the Internet as it exists today. However, I never endeavoured.

Contemplate the potential cost reduction; it would be delightful to hear of such savings.

It is all fundamental tasks that can be accomplished with basic tools (albeit I possess more than the average DIY enthusiast). If they had, which is improbable, it would serve as a valid justification to promote their corrosion service, and they would have merely applied some wax over the rust for £60, surely not executed it as I did