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Thank you. I tried that and even had the two lines connected for 15 minutes to clean the system, but now the malfunction light is back...I don't think there are any bugs in the system, so I might try it again.

Disconnecting the battery at both ends allowed the circuits to discharge completely before reconnecting them on my 2005 S211 with full Airmatic.

Currently, I'm receptive to any and all suggestions, m80! The malfunction light has returned after I cleared the codes and finished the full diagnostic—I'm back to square one!

Totally off base, but I accidentally replugged the gearstick console the other day after taking it out. The choice of sport or comfort was impacted by that.

Thanks for getting back to me. The suspension is functional, but it only works in sport mode; I can't get it to switch to comfort or manual. I get that when something goes wrong, as with the damping sensor, the system will automatically switch to sport mode to prevent further damage. Maybe Icarsoft just doesn't have what it takes to remove the error code, therefore I'll run the diagnostics again.

It is not historic, and Icarsoft is not genuinely removing it, if it continues reappearing. In all likelihood, STAR/Xentry would be necessary to do a reset on an AIRmatic.

Here we have a little paradox. There must be something wrong with it if it won't get out of Sport mode?

Hey there, I am to the point where I am tearing my hair out. The Airmatic suspension is functioning well, but it remains stuck in Sport mode and displays a historic damper solenoid error on Icarsoft. Despite deleting it, the fault keeps reappearing. Can I clear all my data and start over?

Potentially a pyro fuse in the red distribution block.

Okay, so there was absolutely no electricity there. Zero. None.

If anything, it is a valid point up there. Lights everything; locks.

Is the vehicle still functional? Is it possible for you to check for error codes and remove them?

They are not replaceable but can be accessed by unclipping the red plastic from the battery's distribution board.

Alright, so we can inject some serious learning into this thread by pretending it didn't reanimate in the same way it did. The large fuses that I thought were stored behind the white box in the engine compartment are nowhere to be seen. And here I was thinking there were some on that item about the battery distribution cap?

Magical.

I got lucky, therefore it doesn't matter. The vehicle started up immediately after I reconnected the negative battery post.

Was the relay removed from its housing? The distribution board needs to be changed because the fuse inside has probably blown and cannot be replaced.

A multimeter reading of 0.15 volts was obtained when connected to the positive battery post under the hood with ground.

I had a beautiful spark, forgot to unplug the battery, touched the socket to the positive terminal of the alternator, and now there is no electricity. Is this related to what I observed when I peered under the white cover of the engine bay? All I could find was a small black box. Otherwise, how can I find it? I can't seem to locate them, even though I've obviously blown a big fuse. Even on the battery, I don't see any.

Following your advice, I will attach a cord. Future hookups would be a breeze with that.

An eyelet connector that works with your battery tender could be used. It connects directly to the battery terminals and lets you move the connecting side to a better spot.

Thank you, RosaStyle. The delicate connection was a breeze thanks to you. So far, so good.

You can reach the positive terminal of the battery with relative ease. A body ground wire is fastened to the fender immediately in front of the battery, while the negative terminal is concealed beneath the windscreen cowl. This is the location that the owner's manual suggests for jump starting, and it should work perfectly for a charger or tender.

Greetings everyone; An updated cx90 for 2026 That was just this week that I made the purchase. I would prefer to be able to attach a battery tender to it because there may be instances when it is not driven. Slightly concealed beneath in the engine compartment on the passenger side is the 12-volt battery. Is accessing the battery itself the only hassle when connecting a battery tender? The fact that the battery is so out of sight is not an issue for me with other vehicles. Much obliged.