My pipes are corroded

[Mezuzzi]

While resolving one issue with my vehicle, I see the presence of another. Due to prolonged exposure to the elements, several components of the automobile, particularly the bolt heads, exhibit signs of rust.

However, I also saw a corroded pipe or junction on the left side of the vehicle, located underneath the air intake and leading into the radiator, while standing in front of the car facing the engine.

I have attempted to get some images, however it is quite challenging to shoot. Maybe I will attempt to capture some video footage.

Has anybody replaced this pipe? How challenging is the task?

The lower section, located after the connection to the silver component, is inserted into the radiator. The more corroded pipe extends towards the front of the automobile, positioned in front of the radiator, and its ultimate destination remains unclear to me.

After driving, I have not seen any coolant loss or leakage in this region.

Additionally, I am experiencing an issue with the electrical heater booster, which may or may not be connected to the previous problem.

Thank you.

[Mezuzzi]

Could this be an AC pipe? (I am not optimistic)

[AmericaMonster]

The engine bay exudes a strong maritime influence. If you have not yet done so, I strongly recommend thoroughly inspecting your rear subframe.

[Mezuzzi]

The rear subframe seems to be in good condition with no noticeable defects. The car remained idle with little use for almost one year. There are no rusting pipes but this one. It is unclear how you were able to see the engine bay as I only shared close-up pictures.

Does anybody possess any information on this pipe?

[Dudeta]

A few years back, I had the rear subframe assembly of my automobile thoroughly examined. The response I received was that it was in impeccable condition. However, despite this assurance, the subframe ultimately malfunctioned, resulting in the car being deemed irreparable and declared a total loss.From my comprehension, it seems that the rear subframes undergo internal corrosion.

[HolyRoach]

Many decay inside. The Alfa Brera is a classic example.

[AmericaMonster]

The Brera and 159 models commonly experience corrosion on the exterior, particularly in the front frame. This occurs when water becomes trapped between the engine undertray sound deadening and the frame itself. To address this issue, many owners, including myself, have chosen to remove the cover and repaint the frame upon purchasing the vehicle, and have chosen not to reinstall it afterwards.There is just mild surface rust in places on my vehicle, which makes it simpler to see and provides a greater warning or possibility of failure compared to the 212, 218, and other models.

Regardless, let's return to the main subject.

[Lovelyas]

If the substance enters the radiator, it is most likely an oil cooler line for either the engine or gearbox.

Most likely an air conditioning system.

To ascertain with certainty, one must trace the pipes retroactively and determine their respective terminations.

[Mezuzzi]

Did you replace the air conditioning system in the W212? Do you have any suggestions or thoughts? Thank you!

[Mezuzzi]

Thank you. The object vanishes when it enters the area in front or behind the grille, making it difficult to track. Therefore, I am seeking assistance here in case anybody else is familiar with this phenomenon.

[Lovelyas]

I surmise that it directs towards the AC radiator positioned in front of the primary coolant radiator. Is it visible from the front?
An alternative approach is to physically examine the pipes or hoses for any signs of activity, such as a noticeable shift in temperature when the air conditioning is turned off or on. However, it is important to note that the temperature variations must be significant enough to be easily seen.

[Sumoto]

Use a wire or brass brush to clean it, then apply a coating of Vactan or Kurust. Apply a coat of paint and have optimistic expectations.

Alternatively, substitute it.

PS. Take a brief inspection of your metal brake line pipes, particularly the ones that go out of sight over the rear subframe.

[Captiva]

Affirmative, I have replaced the condenser on my W212.
I am unable to identify your photographs, thus I will provide a description based on my recollection. Apologies for any inaccuracies resulting from my imperfect recollection, but here is my attempt.

All of this was accomplished with the bumper removed, allowing for easy access. My recommendation is to avoid attempting to replace the condenser yourself while the bumper is still attached.

The condenser is positioned between the intercooler and the radiator.
By removing all the undertrays from the automobile, you will have a satisfactory perspective of the placement of various components.

The pipes made of metal and rubber that are connected together seem to resemble air conditioning pipes in my observation.

The condenser had a rubber/metal pipe positioned at the upper section, most likely on the driver's side. This pipe remained in satisfactory condition mostly because it was elevated and not exposed to the road. The detachment from the condenser occurred without any problems.

The condenser is equipped with a pipe that is connected to the lower passenger side of the condenser, along with a pressure sensor. This pipe runs down the wall of the engine compartment and connects to a component whose specific identity eludes my memory. It is possible that the issue lies with either the compressor or a connection point with another section of pipe. The positive aspect is that I remember that this can be altered rather easily by accessing the condenser connection from below and removing the passenger side air box and related components from above. The task is somewhat challenging due to limited space, but it is readily achievable. The only difficulty arises when your hand and a tool obstruct your view, but this can be overcome by just looking beforehand, allowing for simple visualisation and tactile awareness. The bolt was easily loosened in this protected and arid engine bay area. The cost of this hose was around £50.
An unfortunate aspect is that this hose experiences significant corrosion, particularly in the lower section near the road or front of the vehicle. Consequently, I had to use a pipe cutter to remove the hose from the condenser in order to extract the condenser. The thread located in the lower part of the condenser has been entirely severed. Well done, I am glad that you were replacing the condenser rather than simply a pressure sensor!

If you completely remove the passenger airbox and bottom trays, you will be able to definitively determine if this pipe is the cause. If you want to make the modification, it is advisable to use a pipe cutter. It is important to note that wearing a watch may hinder your ability to reach the area due to limited space. Additionally, it is recommended to get a replacement pressure sensor and Mahle condenser for the task. Refer to my post for a compelling endorsement on which condenser to get.

[Mezuzzi]

Indeed, I do need the rear brake pipes to be attended to at some juncture as per the MOT. The fronts are satisfactory.

I will attempt to use the wire brush, but I am concerned that it may penetrate through.
 

[Mezuzzi]

Thank you - I am not interested in replacing the condenser until it is absolutely necessary! The air conditioning system is now functioning well. Currently, everything is in a satisfactory state, however I am seeing the booster heater problem, which I presume is not connected to the other issues.

I will endeavour to capture higher quality photographs and videos in order to provide simpler identification and location recognition.

I may disassemble the air intakes and the fan surround in order to have a more comprehensive view.

It is ironic that you decided to reduce your automobile use to one vehicle in order to save on taxes and insurance, only to wind up spending that money on repairs due to the car being inactive. Although you made some effort to maintain it by moving it sometimes and using a trickle charger, it seems that these measures were insufficient.

[Captiva]

There is no need to remove the fan surround. If you remove the trays, you will be able to see the air conditioning pipe located in the lower part of the condenser.
If the one you are referring to is located at the uppermost position, then I believe you just need to detach the slam panel in order to have access. Perhaps the grill? I am unable to fully remember.

Amidst my lengthy discourse, the key facts I want to convey are that pipes coupled with rubber and metal are most likely related to the air conditioning system. If you find the need to repair either one or both of these pipes, it is advisable to also consider replacing the condenser and pressure sensor.

According to earlier recommendations, if there are no existing problems, I would just use an extremely coarse scotch brite to clean them and then apply a spray like ACP50 or apply a generous amount of grease.

[Sumoto]

Avoid tampering with the pipes and their connections. It is best to leave things as they are and not attempt to improve the situation by tugging on them. This might lead to unfavourable consequences.