Engine mishap

[RosaStyle]

It seems that the cylinder head gasket was the culprit when my Cooper S Sidewalk May 25th overheated during the MOT and began leaking water from the header tank. I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this. No garage was willing to work with me since their prices were too high.

Fall to Spring
I had a hard time doing the head, but it seemed to have gone smoothly; the engine started, but it was harsh.
I had to fix the slave cylinder since the clutch went when I was seated.
Seized were the rear callipers; they were
April 26th, scheduled maintenance appointment
Unfortunately, the front left spring snapped before reaching the road.
Finally lost since I don't have impact tools and had to have it collected (which took three weeks because the truck that was supposed to perform the collecting broke down).

It has spent the entire day in the garage now.... Because the harsh flowing won't go away, water is being forced out of the header.

Is there anything else that this sounds like? The garage is still going to look at it tomorrow, but other than "the head gasket swap didn't work" (it was all followed to the letter), is there anything else?

If the water pump is pressurising the header, it can be because the coolant is obstructed.
Is it possible that the tank cover is just not sealing?
Is it possible that there are air leaks causing it to rev up at startup and run rough afterwards?

Over the previous eight months, I've endured nothing but misery and wasted time trying to restore my beloved automobile. A broken spring prevented me from getting it to the shop in time, but I clung to the hope that I had salvaged my beloved vehicle by fixing it myself. Perhaps not now 😭😭😭😭

I would very appreciate (need) any recommendations.

[RosaStyle]

There have been reports of unusual noises coming from the area around the intercooler, which is also where the water pump is located, according to the garage.

[Cincoon]

Firstly, it might be helpful to consult someone who has experience with these engines. In my opinion, the cylinder head should be discarded first because these engines tend to crack when heated. Pressure testing is done when the engine is cold, not when it is hot, because the heat expands the cracks. I learned the hard way that skimming and testing the head was an ineffective method, and I would have priced the job as a refresh plus used cylinder head. Additionally, I would have taken extra precautions to avoid overheating the crankshaft and sump, checking for bearing damage caused by oil thinning out, etc. If you are stuck and want it fixed properly at a fraction of what most garages would charge, please send it my way.

[LimeLing]

Getting the car is definitely an option if you're hesitant to handle it yourself. He has connections with reliable transport firms that can also bring him the automobile.

[Mindumer]

Checking flow is as simple as glancing at the return to the tank; monitoring temperatures other symptom features is also a good idea. Other possible causes include a damaged head.

I wouldn't automatically assume that, though; heads on them sometimes crack, and it's prevalent in other places with distinct symptoms.

After confirming other things, you should potentially leak test the engine at various temperatures.

It's not uncommon for automobiles to overheat during mot if the cooling fan isn't functioning properly. This problem might be misdiagnosed on occasion, especially when paired with flow concerns.

put this bottom end injury out of your mind

[Cincoon]

I have a 2012 Cooper S outside that was severely overheated and will eventually post it here with crank damage from overheating and a badly cracked head. The engine is probably cracked, and I would assume the system is bled before condemning it. You may believe what you want; I just post what I discover online. I'll be posting that one in a few weeks. An indicator of trouble is low oil pressure and a lot of grey stuff at the sump's base.

[Cincoon]

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Prince+engine&tag=vs-pl-mini2-com-20&rel=nofollow

[Cincoon]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Cooper+S&linkCode=gs3&tag=verticalscope-21

[Cincoon]

will include the following items that any competent person would perform automatically: 1, bleed system; 2, sniff tester will indicate whether there is CO in the header tank, which is a symptom of a head or gasket failure;

third, make sure the water pump is operational
4, use live data to watch the temp rise so dont do more dmage, 5 oil pressure test, and pull inlet cap sensor out and check for grey sludge , ie sign of crank wear i have found, 6 check all pipe are on correct way around, 7 use coolant pressure tool to pressurise system with plugs out, 2bar leave over night any coolant in cylinders or sump its done, how i bleed these is open bleed screw on thermostat housing fill with coolant until just coolant flows out, i then put pressure tool on it and press 

[Mindumer]

A w11, not a prince, is what you get when you take an 08 pavement (r52).