Uneripty

Greetings to everyone, I am experiencing an issue with my Mercedes CLK200; when I insert the fob into the ignition, it fails to recognise the fob, preventing me from starting the engine. Yesterday, I opened the key and observed that one of the transistors was damaged and disconnected. I attempted to reattach it using tape and subsequently tested it in my car, but to no effect. My inquiry pertains to whether the activation of the immobiliser would render a replacement key ineffective. I disconnected the battery yesterday to perhaps reset the ECU, and I plan to attempt it again later this evening. What is the most advisable course of action? Can I summon a locksmith to resolve the immobiliser issue and then cut a key for me? If so, could you recommend someone who will not overcharge me? The car is located in Hayes, London. AA proved ineffective, only inspecting the battery and confirming its functionality, thereafter arranging for the vehicle's recovery to my residence. Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I am seeking to acquire a used Niro, considering the rapid depreciation of electric vehicles. I now own a Hyundai Kona with a 64 kW battery. This provides an approximate range of 239 to 260 miles during winter and 310 to 321 miles in summer. The Hyundai Kona has significant build quality flaws, with the most prevalent problems including the 12V battery, horn, and passenger seat sensors. Johnson's Hyundai dealership is similarly undesirable, and I would recommend avoiding them entirely. I need guidance on the mileage range experienced by others with their Niro. I appreciate your assistance in advance.

Without laboratory facilities, detecting pollutants is challenging. Most garages possess a moisture meter for assessing the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. The fluid may darken somewhat over time. Extract a little amount from the master cylinder reservoir and replace it with a small quantity of new fluid for aesthetic purposes; this is a fast procedure. This does not substitute the fluid that performs the function. The ABS pump and callipers need replacement by flushing and bleeding via the bleed nipples. It is that simple. I have serviced vintage automobiles that have not had fluid changes for many years, resulting in fluid that is dark and rust-coloured. However, such constitutes extreme instances of negligence.

The brake pedal's sensation will remain same after a fluid replacement, unless air was previously present and has been eliminated. The brake fluid test assesses moisture absorption in the fluid, indicating its hygroscopic nature. Typically, fluid may last much beyond a two-year change interval without complications. Prolonged intervals without fluid alterations might result in complications with ABS pumps, particularly in motorcycles. The primary contamination may occur in the callipers, brake lines, and hoses, necessitating the expulsion of the old fluid via the bleed nipples. The invoice will itemise the brake fluid replacement and provide a corresponding price. If the service schedule indicates that a brake fluid change is to be performed, it is expected to be executed. Not seen as a chance to deceive the buyer. Presented herein are a few photos. The first instance had the dealership asserting that a fluid change had been performed, whereas the second instance confirmed that a fluid change had really been executed.

"I have encountered cases where services are not rendered as intended, yet customers are still charged." Regrettably, it is a prevalent practice in the business. My family and I have operated Kias for many years, and I have often received vehicles that I was invoiced for repairs that were obviously not performed. For me, brake fluid is the most prevalent. An inspection of the bleed nipples will ascertain if fluid has been purged. The absence of moisture and the lack of spanner witness marks indicate that this has not been performed. Access to petrol fuel filters is located under the back seat. Knowledge will only be attained by your marking of the access hatch. Pollen filters are often not considered a service item. A check of the air filter before and after servicing will reveal if it has been replaced. It is straightforward to ascertain if they are fresh replacements. I have had a vehicle returned with the oil and filter unchanged, necessitating an independent oil analysis. Diesel. These experiences include three distinct Kia dealerships. It is unfortunate that you must endure the procedure; nevertheless, my experience indicates that they will use every possible shortcut as you leisurely sip a coffee at the front of house, charging you for the privilege.

Thank you. I am purchasing a brand new item.

I am considering purchasing a BMW X5 50e, although I often encounter opinions suggesting that the 30D is a superior option. This will be my inaugural X5. Is the X5 50e the optimal choice? Thank you, everyone.

I cannot ascertain from examining my phone, but I wonder if the airbox may be removed to provide better access.

Greetings To detach the ball joint, it is necessary to loosen the conical seat while retaining it inside the wheel bearing housing. Subsequently, apply heat to the area where the ball joint is affixed to the axle arm and detach it using the suitable tool. Thoroughly clean the thread before installing the replacement ball joint using thread-locking adhesive.

It does not seem foolish at all. It is reasonable that improved lubrication of components results in less noise; the enhancement in my vehicle motivates me to do an oil change weekly. (not that it is noisy before, but only since I can ascertain it is solely contributing to prolonging the lifespan of items)

Hello, thank you. I am located in North London - and you? Is it preferable to send a direct message or provide your contact information? Thank you.

Thank you. What is your anticipated expenditure for the required work? I will not be going to BMW, as I do not fit the criteria. Considering all factors and my situation, I will go for a location that will do the task competently. Concerning the chain, I hope that the regular oil change will mitigate issues; but, if replacement becomes necessary, it may influence my decision to retain the vehicle or convey this information to a prospective buyer. This encapsulates my uncertainty over my position, the extent of commitment required, and the financial investment necessary at this juncture. I have seen several components that may need replacement at this mileage. Where should one begin if everything now seems to be functioning adequately? I am cautiously optimistic, however I see the need of more frequent maintenance, prioritising what is most essential relative to expense.

Based on the MOT history, it seems that this vehicle has mostly been used for highway travel. I do a singular excursion, around 230 miles weekly, along the A12. I am certain that there have been other occasions, particularly when the children are not in school, when I have completed the whole distance, maybe using the clutch just once or twice. I use great caution with it to avoid causing any disturbances. Nonetheless, the clutch and gears in this vehicle are exquisite; I can really assert that I have never encountered any unusual noises or problems whilst shifting. To provide additional context, I observed a minor judder during my last mini service approximately one year ago. After changing the oil and filter, the judder completely dissipated, which astonished me; the car's performance became exceptionally smooth, contrasting with the previous slight resistance I had experienced. Recently, after 7,500 miles, I repeated the oil change, yielding identical results—everything feels remarkably smooth once more. It appears that the vehicle benefits from regular oil changes, so I intend to shorten the intervals between these services. Nonetheless, the little judder, while slight and contingent upon precise clutch modulation, is there this time—more so than before when it was entirely absent. I can assert with certainty that all aspects related to the clutch and gears operate seamlessly.

Greetings, everyone. I want to create this article in the hope that someone can guide me appropriately. I am nearing 160,000 miles on my 420d, and I am uncertain about my current status. I like my vehicle; it is perhaps the finest and most pleasurable automobile I have had. Over the last two years, I have changed many components, either due to their age or exceeding their expected lifespan, and I am likely now operating on borrowed time. This is not necessarily an impediment for me; I am appreciating the overall maintenance and acquiring substantial knowledge in the process. She certainly keeps me alert, positively. I understand that many may react with shock when I admit my little knowledge of prior history, making it difficult to ascertain what issues have been addressed before. Is it inconceivable to reach 160,000 miles without a clutch replacement? I enquire since I believe that is my current situation. I just had a comprehensive service at a reputed facility (not BMW) and paid for a 'gold' service to ensure a thorough inspection. The assessment I received was quite favourable, save for the need for two new rear tires and alignment. Considering I had tracking performed in April of this year, there is nothing more to convey—primarily a printout of checks; even manual notation was unnecessary, as she seemed rejuvenated in every regard. Nonetheless, I enquired about it, and he assured me there was no cause for significant concern. I am cognisant of some aspects that may be somewhat borderline or fall within the spectrum; yet, they overlooked all of these, leading me to doubt the veracity of their assessments. Additionally, there is a little judder while entering first gear, which prompted me to do a comprehensive inspection to elucidate any issues. Nonetheless, I am quite uncertain about the next steps to take. Is it a straightforward, unequivocal new clutch installation? Or should other factors be considered initially? I have examined many aspects to consider initially, including clutch burn, the removal of clutch delay, and the replacement or cleaning of the intake manifold. Uncertain about the extent of their connection, but I presume they are related. Any advice to provide, considering the aforementioned context, would be welcomed. Thank you for your attention.

This is quite challenging. You undoubtedly own one significant issue, from which all other problems likely stem. I extensively utilise WD40 and ACF50 on, in, and under my vehicle over the winter to mitigate these issues, yet my previous 3.2 Coupe never malfunctioned like yours. Your issue seems to have originated from water in the boot; thus, I recommend beginning by thoroughly drying it out. Subsequently, open all connections, dry them, and add grease or WD40 to each one.

I have just reviewed the tire specifications for the U25 Mini Countryman, where Mini enumerates all the tires compatible with the vehicle. I was pleasantly happy to see the Goodyear All Seasons Gen3 in the list, and rather astonished that Mini specifies a H speed rating! The tire is available with a V speed rating, leading me to conclude that the Goodyear tyre is an acceptable option for the vehicle.

I fully concur; a V grade is ideal. Why does Mini specify a Y rating? Significantly reduces the availability of tires; for instance, there are no All Season or Winter tyres with a Y grade. I will ultimately install All Season tires, despite their "only" V rating, but I cannot get why Mini equips vehicles with Y rated tyres instead of the superior and more economical V rated options.

Indeed, the maximum velocity of the C classic variant is much inferior than that of a V rating. What is the rationale for selecting Y-rated tires? It seems to be excessive to me.

Does anybody understand why Mini specifies Y-rated tires while the maximum speed of the C models is 130 MPH, for which V-rated tires would suffice? 130 is almost double the speed limit in the UK.

I would want to express my gratitude to all those who have responded. It is highly valued. As you probably surmised, my scan tool is an inexpensive one. However, Austozone offers affordable scan tools, but they also have access to more advanced ones upon request. Despite specifically asking for these, I still did not get any error codes. If anybody has any recommendations, I am considering investing in a compact, specialised version. Regarding the vehicle's temperature, it is not experiencing overheating. I just assume that driving for an hour may be causing the car to heat up and perhaps cause the problem. I just acquired a new thermostat and coolant for my vehicle. However, as many of you are aware, these Mini Coopers seem to have a tendency to overheat even under normal conditions. Is it possible that the issue is caused by a faulty temperature sensor or another sensor related to the valve being stuck?

These automobiles lack a temperature gauge, but the coolant is fresh and at the proper level.

Thank you, the vehicle does not seem to be experiencing overheating. The problem is being caused only by the duration of the drive. When the temperature decreases, the illumination ceases once again.

Greetings, everyone. The engine light on my 2012 Cooper S consistently illuminates after about one hour of driving. After stopping the automobile for a duration of 5 minutes or more, when I return and start the engine, the engine light automatically goes off. I own an OBD meter and I inspect it when it is operational, but, no diagnostic code is being displayed. I presume that it is related to the issue of excessive heat, but I am not quite certain. (I reside in Texas) I just replaced the thermostat and coolant, but, the issue persists. I have not experience any power loss or disruptions when the lights are turned on, but it is causing me annoyance. I have not been able to locate any other individuals experiencing the same problem on the forum. We would appreciate any suggestions or insights. Thank you.

I have been registering zero no claims since I am declaring myself as the primary driver and policy holder in order to establish my own No Claims Discount (NCD). I will need to verify the accumulated No Claims Discount (NCD) on each policy. However, this information will not be beneficial if I choose to insure under my own name. There seems to be further work that needs to be done. I really like obtaining insurance estimates.