Uneripty

Thank you. What is your anticipated expenditure for the required work? I will not be going to BMW, as I do not fit the criteria. Considering all factors and my situation, I will go for a location that will do the task competently. Concerning the chain, I hope that the regular oil change will mitigate issues; but, if replacement becomes necessary, it may influence my decision to retain the vehicle or convey this information to a prospective buyer. This encapsulates my uncertainty over my position, the extent of commitment required, and the financial investment necessary at this juncture. I have seen several components that may need replacement at this mileage. Where should one begin if everything now seems to be functioning adequately? I am cautiously optimistic, however I see the need of more frequent maintenance, prioritising what is most essential relative to expense.

Based on the MOT history, it seems that this vehicle has mostly been used for highway travel. I do a singular excursion, around 230 miles weekly, along the A12. I am certain that there have been other occasions, particularly when the children are not in school, when I have completed the whole distance, maybe using the clutch just once or twice. I use great caution with it to avoid causing any disturbances. Nonetheless, the clutch and gears in this vehicle are exquisite; I can really assert that I have never encountered any unusual noises or problems whilst shifting. To provide additional context, I observed a minor judder during my last mini service approximately one year ago. After changing the oil and filter, the judder completely dissipated, which astonished me; the car's performance became exceptionally smooth, contrasting with the previous slight resistance I had experienced. Recently, after 7,500 miles, I repeated the oil change, yielding identical results—everything feels remarkably smooth once more. It appears that the vehicle benefits from regular oil changes, so I intend to shorten the intervals between these services. Nonetheless, the little judder, while slight and contingent upon precise clutch modulation, is there this time—more so than before when it was entirely absent. I can assert with certainty that all aspects related to the clutch and gears operate seamlessly.

Greetings, everyone. I want to create this article in the hope that someone can guide me appropriately. I am nearing 160,000 miles on my 420d, and I am uncertain about my current status. I like my vehicle; it is perhaps the finest and most pleasurable automobile I have had. Over the last two years, I have changed many components, either due to their age or exceeding their expected lifespan, and I am likely now operating on borrowed time. This is not necessarily an impediment for me; I am appreciating the overall maintenance and acquiring substantial knowledge in the process. She certainly keeps me alert, positively. I understand that many may react with shock when I admit my little knowledge of prior history, making it difficult to ascertain what issues have been addressed before. Is it inconceivable to reach 160,000 miles without a clutch replacement? I enquire since I believe that is my current situation. I just had a comprehensive service at a reputed facility (not BMW) and paid for a 'gold' service to ensure a thorough inspection. The assessment I received was quite favourable, save for the need for two new rear tires and alignment. Considering I had tracking performed in April of this year, there is nothing more to convey—primarily a printout of checks; even manual notation was unnecessary, as she seemed rejuvenated in every regard. Nonetheless, I enquired about it, and he assured me there was no cause for significant concern. I am cognisant of some aspects that may be somewhat borderline or fall within the spectrum; yet, they overlooked all of these, leading me to doubt the veracity of their assessments. Additionally, there is a little judder while entering first gear, which prompted me to do a comprehensive inspection to elucidate any issues. Nonetheless, I am quite uncertain about the next steps to take. Is it a straightforward, unequivocal new clutch installation? Or should other factors be considered initially? I have examined many aspects to consider initially, including clutch burn, the removal of clutch delay, and the replacement or cleaning of the intake manifold. Uncertain about the extent of their connection, but I presume they are related. Any advice to provide, considering the aforementioned context, would be welcomed. Thank you for your attention.

This is quite challenging. You undoubtedly own one significant issue, from which all other problems likely stem. I extensively utilise WD40 and ACF50 on, in, and under my vehicle over the winter to mitigate these issues, yet my previous 3.2 Coupe never malfunctioned like yours. Your issue seems to have originated from water in the boot; thus, I recommend beginning by thoroughly drying it out. Subsequently, open all connections, dry them, and add grease or WD40 to each one.

I have just reviewed the tire specifications for the U25 Mini Countryman, where Mini enumerates all the tires compatible with the vehicle. I was pleasantly happy to see the Goodyear All Seasons Gen3 in the list, and rather astonished that Mini specifies a H speed rating! The tire is available with a V speed rating, leading me to conclude that the Goodyear tyre is an acceptable option for the vehicle.

I fully concur; a V grade is ideal. Why does Mini specify a Y rating? Significantly reduces the availability of tires; for instance, there are no All Season or Winter tyres with a Y grade. I will ultimately install All Season tires, despite their "only" V rating, but I cannot get why Mini equips vehicles with Y rated tyres instead of the superior and more economical V rated options.

Indeed, the maximum velocity of the C classic variant is much inferior than that of a V rating. What is the rationale for selecting Y-rated tires? It seems to be excessive to me.

Does anybody understand why Mini specifies Y-rated tires while the maximum speed of the C models is 130 MPH, for which V-rated tires would suffice? 130 is almost double the speed limit in the UK.

I would want to express my gratitude to all those who have responded. It is highly valued. As you probably surmised, my scan tool is an inexpensive one. However, Austozone offers affordable scan tools, but they also have access to more advanced ones upon request. Despite specifically asking for these, I still did not get any error codes. If anybody has any recommendations, I am considering investing in a compact, specialised version. Regarding the vehicle's temperature, it is not experiencing overheating. I just assume that driving for an hour may be causing the car to heat up and perhaps cause the problem. I just acquired a new thermostat and coolant for my vehicle. However, as many of you are aware, these Mini Coopers seem to have a tendency to overheat even under normal conditions. Is it possible that the issue is caused by a faulty temperature sensor or another sensor related to the valve being stuck?

These automobiles lack a temperature gauge, but the coolant is fresh and at the proper level.

Thank you, the vehicle does not seem to be experiencing overheating. The problem is being caused only by the duration of the drive. When the temperature decreases, the illumination ceases once again.

Greetings, everyone. The engine light on my 2012 Cooper S consistently illuminates after about one hour of driving. After stopping the automobile for a duration of 5 minutes or more, when I return and start the engine, the engine light automatically goes off. I own an OBD meter and I inspect it when it is operational, but, no diagnostic code is being displayed. I presume that it is related to the issue of excessive heat, but I am not quite certain. (I reside in Texas) I just replaced the thermostat and coolant, but, the issue persists. I have not experience any power loss or disruptions when the lights are turned on, but it is causing me annoyance. I have not been able to locate any other individuals experiencing the same problem on the forum. We would appreciate any suggestions or insights. Thank you.

I have been registering zero no claims since I am declaring myself as the primary driver and policy holder in order to establish my own No Claims Discount (NCD). I will need to verify the accumulated No Claims Discount (NCD) on each policy. However, this information will not be beneficial if I choose to insure under my own name. There seems to be further work that needs to be done. I really like obtaining insurance estimates.

Against all odds, our ageing Poogeot 307 miraculously passed its MOT today, leading us to navigate the complex process of auto insurance renewal. The ownership and insurance of the Poogeot is in the wife's name, as shown on the V5 document. I have always been listed as a named driver. The wife has another car on which she has accumulated a No Claims Discount (NCD) for a period exceeding 9 years. Currently, while utilising online quotation platforms for the new Poogeot insurance, I am inputting a value of `0` for the No Claims Discount (NCD) amount. This is because I understand that NCD entitlement can only be used to one car at a time, and my wife is already using it for her other vehicle. Insurers determine the accuracy of your No Claims Discount (NCD) by accessing a database or accident records shared among insurers. This allows them to identify any discrepancies or irregularities in your NCD record, rather than solely relying on the information provided by you over the phone or through an online form. There is no malicious or fraudulent activity happening here, I am only raising a question that arose during a chat today.

The second floor above the ground level is dedicated to affordable tyres. While they may improve somewhat over time, the tyres will never match the quality of the Bridgestones you previously had.

Locking your wife in the vehicle is unquestionably perilous. When releasing her, do it from a secure distance, then flee rapidly!

Mercedes' quality remains excellent. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202405219944955?polaAffiliate=isis&utm_source=RoEye&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=HELP&utm_content=Skimbit Ltd.&utm_term=Performance

By applying a glass coating, the requirement for windscreen wipers would significantly decrease, and the reliance on high-speed use will become obsolete. In my experience, fast speed has never shown to be advantageous under severe rainfall.

Apply a hydrophobic polymer coating to your glass surface to minimise the requirement for using wipers. I use Aquapel, a product that offers a variety of alternatives on the market. It is straightforward to apply and provides a minimum duration of six months. I apply fertiliser throughout the spring and autumn seasons. After experiencing its benefits, you will not revert to using unprotected glass.

I have seen that you are now located in Germany. I would want to inquire about the specific predetermined speed at which you do your fuel efficiency tests.

Read and sent a message to him. Here is the answer I received from a dealer, who also declined someone I know facing the same problem: 'Please be aware that customers who possess a warranty, extended warranty, or corrosion warranty (if they have regularly serviced their vehicle via Mercedes Benz) will have coverage if the issue is determined to be a defect of the manufacturer.' However, if you do not own a warranty or if the issue is not considered a manufacturing defect, there will be an inquiry cost of £222 for the first hour, calculated proportionally.

Hello, my friend. I believe I may use a tow rope to transport the vehicle to the nearby dealership. However, I am reluctant to do so due to the exorbitant fee of £222 per hour for a "inspection." This seems unnecessary considering that the issue has already been identified during the MOT. Otherwise, I would have already completed that task.

Indeed, there is no need to be concerned, since this situation is only a result of a misunderstanding. An acquaintance of mine visited a Sytner dealership and encountered a complete refusal of service. However, they were able to get assistance from a Vertu dealership, although at a cost of around £200 for bolts. It is worth noting that there are several stories of these bolts being provided free of charge, indicating a lack of consistency in the matter. Another risk is that even if the subframe is replaced, the absence of a MOT may result in the vehicle not being released if there are any problems with the arms, bolts, bushes, and so on. Under what circumstances, their rates will rapidly deteriorate and become BER. I want information on the specific aspects that will be addressed, in order to preemptively replace the shock component prior to transferring it to them. Otherwise, it would be futile to invest more money in the automobile just for them to reject it following inspection.