JamesStv

It is a genuine pleasure, measured in smiles per gallon, not lately seen in high-powered vehicles with poor fuel efficiency, and the fleeting moments of delight derived from their usage. Having operated a remapped C63, the exorbitant fuel and tax expenses are astonishing.

It is reasonable to assert that Australian, New Zealand, and South African CX-60 models produced around the same date would possess the same or a comparable Service Bulletin. If the dealer verifies the OBC with MDARS and observes the identical OLD File Version now in CX-60, updating the OBC to the NEW 'E' File KBB3-30WF2-E will resolve the issue.

CX-60 (KH) - Mode Two charging interruptions occurred inadvertently prior to completion. TSB NUMBER: R018/25 (Europe and United Kingdom) Initial Publication Date: April 15, 2025 NOTICE: Relevant Model: CX-60 (KH) equipped with e-SKYACTIV PHEV (Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle). DESCRIPTION: Certain customers may see unintended cessation of MODE 2 charging prior to completion while utilising a MENNEKES-manufactured Charge Cable. CAUSE: An instantaneous power interruption during the temperature calibration of the power sensor in MENNEKES-manufactured charging cables is perceived by the vehicle as an anomaly, resulting in the cessation of charging. MODIFICATION IN MASS PRODUCTION: The control software of the On-Board Charger (OBC) has been revised. SUBJECT: VIN AND PRODUCTION DATE RANGE: Europe (Left-Hand Drive and United Kingdom Specifications) JMZ KH B * 250001 to 999999 - To Be Determined. REPAIR PROCEDURE: 1. Reprogram the On Board Charger (OBC) utilising the Mazda Modular Diagnostic System (M-MDS) with the Mazda Diagnostic And Repair Software (MDARS). If the current Calibration file name displayed on the ECU FILENAME screen matches that in the Calibration Files Information or has a later alpha suffix, reprogramming is unnecessary, as the file has already been updated; seek additional guidance. NOTE: Consult the Service Information E010/24* "ECU REPROGRAMMING PROCEDURE USING MDARS". 2. Erase Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC). 3. Confirm the repair by activating the power (READY On) and ensuring that there is no activation of the MIL or any abnormal warning lights. CALIBRATION FILE DETAILS ECU OBC Software version... Current time to... update Previous File New File KBB3-30WF2-D KBB3-30WF2-E duration: 10 minutes

Indeed, the coolant pipes! These represent one of the most significant failure sites of the vehicle's cooling system.

The cost will be elevated due to the need of navigating many obstacles to reach the destination. At this point, you may choose to contemplate the thermostat and perhaps address some of the hoses while you are engaged in this task. You want to avoid incurring labour costs again in the future. Additionally, inspect the ancillary belts; it may be an opportune moment to address them as well.

The vehicle is, in fact, located in Kent. It is a R107, however the individual I am seeking was not located in Kent. I am in Surrey part-time and can inspect the vehicle, but I would appreciate any ideas for an independent expert.

I am considering purchasing a vintage SL and would want to arrange for an examination. Some time ago, I encountered a self-employed individual in the Surrey/Sussex region who seemed knowledgeable. I believed I had retained his contact information, but I am now unable to locate it. I am enquiring whether anybody present is familiar with the individual I am referencing. He operated independently and was not affiliated with these websites that only refer a local mechanic. Thank you.

One certainty indicated by the scan is the absence of contact with the Airbag Module; thus, it may be prudent to begin troubleshooting from that point. It is likely located under the centre console. However, your Satnav, radio, and amplifier also lack communication, leading me to believe that water infiltration may be the cause.

http://www.seekic.com/uploadfile/ic-circuit/201312101247309.gif

albeit it is automated. Disregard the P/N lockout switch. Utilise a voltmeter or a 12V bulb to verify the presence of 12V at the solenoid terminal during the starting process. If such is the case, the wiring up to that point is functioning properly, indicating that the solenoid is probably the issue.

Purchasing the item for £150 on eBay will resolve the issue. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/405057353940?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338774556&toolid=10001&customid=130832X1595858X0700792665a396300c3c9e5afb99e2b3

https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

Have you consulted the online MOT history to verify the mileage?

A hoover leak refers to a situation when there is an unintended and undesirable escape of air or gas from a sealed system. Inspect all hoses and small diameter pipes for any signs of splits, as well as examine the rubber joints.

In freezing temperatures, the engine will start operating prior to the battery reaching a depleted state, sometimes much earlier.

My occurrence was singular. It is quite bothersome and persistent in emitting beeping sounds. It was discovered that the latch was not properly fastened on one side, therefore it needed to be opened and then closed again. Occasionally, the rubber stoppers may need rotation to ensure they are not impeding complete closure.

I now have gunmetal wheels on my silver vehicle, but after seeing your pictures, I am inclined to change them to silver.

As far as I know, I do not have either of those alternatives.

I am not really worried about quick charging; it is only to maintain the phone's battery level while using it for navigation.

Discovered this item and I believe it may be the exact what I am seeking. https://amzn.eu/d/19IhrEY

I suggest that CLK owners who now have one in use consider eliminating any uncertainty. Although I have conducted searches on eBay and Amazon, I cannot determine if the lid can shut without the lead being there unless I personally test it.

Is the 12v auxiliary socket located in the ashtray compatible with any standard phone charger? I am concerned that it may interfere with the gear select lever when it is in the park position. I would rather keep it plugged into the socket instead of having to detach it every time I park. It would be ideal to have a compact version that would enable the ashtray lid to shut while the charger is in place. I would much appreciate any comments or tips.

The sensor voltage was decreased to less than 0.02Vac, indicating that the sensor may need closer proximity.

During the test, I saw voltage readings ranging from 0.04Vac to 0.1Vac while manually spinning the wheels at a high speed. This was done using both the new Pagid sensor on the left and the old BMW sensor on the right. I have seen many YouTube videos that demonstrate the testing of sensors on different vehicles, and it seems that a voltage reading of less than 0.1Vac is considered to be low. I am concerned that my new hubs may not be compatible, and I would like not to repeat the task for a third time.

Greetings, I am experiencing an issue with my 2005 520d Touring vehicle. I installed two high-quality F.A.G front wheel bearing assemblies, with the component number FAG713667070. Following the replacement, I encountered error code 49F2, indicating a problem with the wheel speed. Upon resetting the code, the ABS and DTC lights illuminate again when the vehicle exceeds a speed of 5mph. While replacing the bearing, I suspect that I may have caused damage to the left wheel speed sensor by getting it trapped and pulling on the wire. To rectify this, I replaced it with a Pagid sensor 417110628. This did not resolve the error. I attempted to install the sensor that I had taken out from the left side onto the right wheel, but unfortunately, this did not resolve the issue. Have I mistakenly placed wheel bearings that are not compatible? Have I damaged two sensors? Did my new sensor arrive in a non-functional state? Given the improbability of all the options, I need some diagnostic suggestions. Is there a method to inspect the wheel bearing assemblies without the need for their removal? Is there a diagnostic technique using a multimeter to test the sensors? Do you have any more suggestions? Salutations!