Grundysp

Thank you for the prompt response! Is it straightforward to determine whether the ignition barrel is the cause of this issue?

To whoever it may concern, I have been experiencing a persistent problem with my automobile for three years and have made some observations that might assist an expert in diagnosing the issue. Simply put, sometimes the automobile fails to start and does not even make a cranking noise when the key is turned all the way to the right. Vehicle: Mercedes-Benz S350 Bluetech, 2011 model (W221) Side note: When the automobile starts successfully (although occasionally after a delay, either on the first or second attempt), all problems vanish, and it operates smoothly as expected. Symptoms: - Ignition key moved to the second position, but engine does not start, no cranking sound. Two problems appear on the dashboard. Run-flat system malfunction, Electronic Stability Programme malfunction The engine coolant temperature gauge remains static on the dashboard, regardless of the car's prior operation and expected temperature range of 60-80°C. The pre-ignition glow indicator does not illuminate even when the engine is cold. The compressor for the air suspension does not produce the expected hissing sound, indicating it is not functioning. The system is displaying two pending error codes. Error codes P0113 and P00AD indicate issues with Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1. I have deduced that the issue is likely related to the battery voltage, since it consistently occurs during winter and cold weather. I have not seen it during the summer season. It seldom happens after the vehicle has been driven and warmed up. Keep in mind that voltage increases over a long period of use, indicating a greater level of battery charge. When my battery voltage dropped below 12V, it took me an hour to start the vehicle by repeatedly twisting the key and hoping for it to start. When I replaced the battery with a fully charged one, an error may occur. However, after attempting to start the engine 2-3 times, I am able to switch it on. On another occasion, I attempted to jump-start the car from another running vehicle after 20 minutes of unsuccessful attempts to start it on its own. The car began promptly and no error was shown. Despite having a new, fully charged 95Ah AGM batteries, I still have this message and sporadic starting problem. Additionally, when the key is turned to position 2, several customers are activated. The air suspension compressor would initiate, pre-ignition glow, and air conditioning air, among other functions. Before attempting to start the engine, I see that the battery voltage decreases by around 0.5 volts. After fully charging a new battery, it reads 12.5V initially, but drops to 12.0V after turning the key twice. Occasionally, when turning the key to position 2, the glow plug briefly appears and the air suspension starts hissing, but then abruptly stops, displaying an error message on the dashboard and preventing the car from starting. Could this issue be a short-circuit triggered by a component activated while the ignition is in position 2? When voltage decreases, some modules may fail, resulting in errors or the vehicle not starting. It is peculiar that the vehicle consistently starts, but it may sometimes need up to an hour, or locking the doors after an unsuccessful attempt and attempting again 20 minutes later. Value accurate estimations.

That is precisely what artificial intelligence would achieve. Inform the dealer that you are rejecting the automobile under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 and that the Approved Used Terms and Conditions are meaningless since they cannot override your statutory rights. You may also get a letter form online for rejecting a new automobile because of a significant issue that occurred inside the first 30 days.

to listen to your difficulties. I cannot provide insights on the technical aspects, but from a legal standpoint (this is non-professional advise - I am not a lawyer....): 1. Your local dealer is accurate in stating that the issue will not be covered by the 1-Year Approved Used Warranty. The 1-year AU warranty does not cover faults that were visible at the time of sale and should have been identified and fixed by the dealer before the sale. This prevents dealers from shifting the cost of preparing cars for sale onto the warranty. Dealers' service departments dislike warranty work that include addressing issues that other dealerships' service departments neglected to address due to laziness. Unfortunately, you are not the only person to complain about inadequately prepared MB Approved Used automobiles on this platform. 2. If you do not want the automobile, you have two alternatives. You may request the dealer to exchange the automobile for a different vehicle, as allowed by the Approved Used Terms and Conditions within 30 days of buying it. Swapping the automobile may be done without providing a reason, as long as the dealer has another car in stock that you prefer and is within the same price range. The second choice is to decline the automobile and get a complete reimbursement, as permitted by the Consumer Rights Act 2015, within 30 days after buying it. For example, if the automobile has a significant issue during the first 30 days, the dealer is legally required to accept its return and provide a complete refund. If you choose not to keep the automobile, you are not obligated to allow the dealer to fix any issues. Refer to: https://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/rejecting-a-car/# 3. If you purchased the automobile via financing, notify your loan provider and they will advocate on your behalf. If you spent over £100 using a credit card, such as paying the deposit, notify your credit card provider. Regardless of the situation, the credit provider is responsible for covering the whole cost of the automobile as stipulated by the Consumer Credit Act 1974. 4. If you choose to retain the automobile once it has been fixed, contact the original dealer and demand that they cover the repair expenses at your local dealer. The local dealer will fix the automobile at no expense to you, eliminating the need for you to transport it to the supplying dealer 200 miles away. Depending on the repair costs, the dealer may give a refund instead of covering the repair fee. For instance, a new gearbox from Mercedes-Benz might be rather expensive.

Without intending to divert the discussion, I must mention that Glynhir Mansion/Farm in Ammanford is an exceptional location. A few years ago, I embarked on a bike expedition and paid a visit to the place. Surprisingly, it is still in the ownership of the same family, who even recognised and recalled my presence! There were absolutely no regulations - it was a perfect and peaceful setting. At my current age, I rode on a Honda motorbike with one of the farm boys, who was around 14 years old, while we drove an ancient Massey Ferguson tractor into the town. We purchased a substantial quantity of supplies for a nocturnal meal in the hay barn and transported it back. Varying periods! (early 1980s)

Poor resolution (it's a photograph taken with a cell phone of a photocopy of the original picture). However, you get the concept. Observe the immense happiness! I remember my mother being really appalled.

I also have a beautiful photograph of me riding a horse energetically across a field in Wales. I estimate that I was perhaps 11 or 12 years old.

Typically, the third or fourth cylinder is prone to melting in turbo engines due to a weak fuel mixture and excessive heat. This may also lead to severe knocking and poor performance when using gasoline with an octane rating lower than 98 RON, which is recommended for Cooper S engines.

The presence of overheating, oil residue, and discoloration in the form of white or black deposits on the rings, stem seals, timing chain, and plugs indicates potential issues. Greyish brown residue is considered healthy, while black residue suggests a rich fuel mixture. Bright white residue with melted electrodes indicates a lean running condition and burning oil. Such conditions can lead to excessive heat, making the rings brittle. In turbo engines, this can potentially cause a hole to melt in the hottest cylinder, typically located near the gearbox end.

A new set of spark plugs will temporarily address the issue of misfires until the excessive oil consumption and fuel mixture imbalance cause another set of plugs to fail. It is now time to do a maintenance refresh.

Life is ephemeral to spend energy on little matters; perfection is transient. Simply relish it in optimal well-being while it is within your grasp.

Indeed, I examined my reflection in the mirror earlier today and pondered over this matter. I appear to be developing 'patina'. At least that seems to be rather polished and refined...

I am uncertain about the reason for my current efforts, to be honest.I really dislike seeing the squandering of automobiles.I have the potential to fracture or shatter them.Such things just exasperate me!

Yes, I own an other 2.0 identical vehicle, I am certain.

I replaced the ekpm with my other automobiles, which I am certain functions well, but there was no discernible change.The automobile previously began but only operated for around 5 minutes. Subsequently, I examined the fuses and discovered that fuse number 79 was not functioning due to a blown circuit. I modified it and tried once again. Experienced another explosion. I installed another electronic control module (ekpm) which did not cause the fuse to explode, but it failed to initiate the engine's startup or provide power to the pump.Is there a method to manually start the pump?

Is this question absurd?

I have successfully supplied power to the electronic control module (EKPM), but there is no further functionality beyond that point. Thank you for taking the time to read!👍

Seventy

Apologies, the current rating is 20 amperes.

My automobile is experiencing a failure to start. Not really convenient. Upon inspecting the fuse box, I discovered that the fuse with a rating of 29 amps (unfortunately, I cannot recall its specific number) had malfunctioned.I modified this and it operated for a duration of 1 minute before ceasing to function.Although I am not really skilled with a multimeter, I am now experiencing a lack of power to the ekpm.After replacing the fuse, I regained electrical power. However, when I attempted to activate the device, the fuse malfunctioned once again. Is it probable that this is a defective ekpm?Upon inspection, I saw no apparent indications.

Yes, however, it is necessary to replace the fluid and filter in the expansion tank. This is a service item.

Additionally, please ensure that only one spray is used at a time.

Excellent decision.