depofly

The battery in my 2008 E92 325i was replaced in March. It has not been operated since then, just initiated a few times. Upon attempting to use it again, I have seen the presence of the yellow low battery indicator on the dashboard, the necessity to adjust the time on the clock, and the failure of the car's boot to release when I unlock the vehicle. The first battery had a capacity of 80 ampere-hours and a cold cranking amperage of 800. The previous item was replaced with a Bosch battery that has a capacity of 95Ah and a cold cranking amp (CCA) rating of 800. I am certain that it was programmed and officially registered using Bimmercode. I have had the automobile for a duration of 8 years, during which I have not encountered any issues till the present day. Is it possible that a recently purchased battery has lost its charge due to the automobile being inactive for a period of 4 months? Will I need to change it once more?

It is rather frequent to see waggons stuck beneath a bridge with a clearly indicated height limit of 10 feet and 6 inches on a back road that I sometimes use. One method provides enough advance notice, while the other method catches you off guard as you navigate a curve without visibility. If the waggons see it in advance, there are no convenient places to turn around, resulting in the need to reverse around 90-degree turns often. I suppose that satellite navigation systems are responsible for displaying this route as the most expeditious path to the motorway.

This ring is a component of a sensor, which I have coloured "red".

EDIT: Or does it have to be with a wheel hub (bearing)? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/4245005040?maker[]=111

I apologise for my oversight, I failed to notice the term "rear". Does it resemble this (verify compatibility)? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/8954402010

Occasionally, it is also referred to as a tone ring. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/triscan/7206508

Thank you for your message. Just to clarify, are you suggesting that the replacement of the injectors did not resolve the issue, since the root problem was really the vanos hubs (solenoids located on the front of the engine block)? Regarding my initial inquiries, I appreciate any more guidance in advance. 1.) Has anybody have experience installing a single injector with a pre-owned index 11 injector on a 2008 N43 318i? 2.) Are the cylinders of the N43 engine numbered 1-4 in consecutive order from the front of the engine bay to the back firewall? This is important since the diagnostic is indicating a problem with the injector in cylinder 3.

Thank you for providing the information, @Finestey. I have also discovered a source that offers a guarantee of 2 years and does not need the replacement of old injectors. This is a fuel injector with the part number 13537589048-11 and index number 11, designed for BMW 1, 3, 5, and 6 series vehicles with N43 and N53 engines. It is available for purchase on eBay. I am posting this information for your reference. I am currently unaware of the specific index of the original injectors in my 2008 N43 4-cylinder engine. However, I assume that the index number should not pose a problem when replacing a single injector. Although, I have come across reports of potential complications in some cases.

I am experiencing a cylinder 3 injector failure on my 2008 E90 N43 4-cylinder vehicle, which is resulting in a very unstable idle and stalling. Is it OK to substitute this individual injector with a pre-owned index 11 injector? Furthermore, I presume that the cylinders are labelled in a sequential manner from 1 to 4, starting at the front of the engine compartment and progressing towards the back firewall. Any guidance or recommendations would be much appreciated. Thank you.

I need assistance in removing the sump, as it is likely to contain a significant amount of debris. Additionally, it is necessary to remove the oil pump, as it may harbour additional fragments of the chain system. This occurrence is usual when the top guide breaks and falls down, resulting in a failure.

If you need all the practical and functional devices without any unnecessary extras, I would recommend opting for a 3 or 4 specification model. Both vehicles are equipped with Smart Cruise control, which has left a strong impression on me. However, what about the panoramic roof? I have just used it for demonstration purposes and have not utilised it for any other reason.

Undoubtedly, there is a certain quality that sets them apart.

I fail to see why the owner, who claims to be a master technician certified by Mercedes-Benz, did not get the bonnet repaired. Is the designo paint expensive? This is a beautiful machine! However, it has been available for purchase for as long as I can recall.

I get a visual notification reminding me to maintain contact with the steering wheel when my hands are already on the wheel and in the proper position. It occurs often, but I now choose to disregard it. Has anybody else encountered that specific message?

If you are encountering difficulties with AA, have you experimented with using an other mobile device, borrowed from an acquaintance or a relative? I would want to state that I have not had any issues with AA when using my Motorola Power device, whether connected by wire or via a Moto MA-1 wireless adapter.

Even if two injectors were not functioning, I would have expected the engine to start, to some extent, with the other four injectors operating. Prior to further delving into the issue, it is advisable to take the vehicle to a reputable Mercedes-Benz expert who can thoroughly examine the automobile. It is not the opportune moment to engage in a game of chance with repairs, as doing so in the past resulted in negative consequences.

Having experienced both, I am able to discern the difference. The temperature of 90 degrees decreases more rapidly, particularly in the MHEV (uncertain about the PHEV). On the ninth iteration, they used the same compressor as the fifth iteration, resulting in a slightly decreased power output for the ninth iteration. While it is not inherently negative, one may discern a noticeable difference. The large windscreen of the 9 was not beneficial since it allowed excessive heat to enter. What significantly improved the situation on the 9 was the application of window tinting to the front windows (except the windscreen), thereby reducing the amount of heat entering the vehicle.

We successfully replaced the SAM module, resolving the issues with the rear light, trunk, alarm, blinkers, windows, and defrosters. Upon inspection, we discovered rust and moisture within the SAM.

I have inspected the battery and confirmed its satisfactory condition. Additionally, I have seen a little amount of wetness in the boot region and identified some exposed wires.

Assistance in any kind would be very appreciated.

I have obtained all of these codes. The trunk cannot be opened using the remote, the blinkers are not functioning, the right tail light is not working, the left tail parking light remains on even when the lights are off, the windows no longer automatically roll down somewhat when the doors are opened, and there is no rear defroster. There is a sense of interconnectedness in everything. Electrical problem?

There is no alert or siren sounding.

Assistance required? Regarding the prior statement, I am not familiar with the topic you are discussing. What is the purpose of the alarm sounder?

Greetings, gentlemen. I am experiencing an issue with my 2006 CLS500. Yesterday, while arriving at work, I turned off my vehicle and its lights. As I exited the car, I saw that the tail light located at the bottom right side was not turning off. Upon reentering the vehicle, I proceeded to start the ignition. Subsequently, a warning appeared on the dashboard indicating a "Display Malfunction" and advising me to seek professional assistance. I toggled the light switch, but the light remained on. To prevent my battery from dying, I removed the carpet and disconnected the right tail light. During the night, I saw intermittent flashing and blinking of the left bottom tail light. After finishing my job in the morning, I attempted to use the fob to open the vehicle, but unfortunately, the fob was malfunctioning. Upon pressing the buttons, the little red light on the fob illuminates, nevertheless the vehicle remains unresponsive. Fortunately, I had the foresight to leave it unlocked. Subsequently, I attempted to access the trunk by pressing the inside button, using the fob, and even by manually lifting the handle upwards, but regrettably, it remained unresponsive. To open the trunk, I had to remove the actual key from the fob, place it into the keyhole, and then pull the latch. Do you have any insights about the current situation? Kindly inform me. In addition, I would like to inform you that the blinkers are now functioning properly.