Samuraisaint

BMW 320D M Sport 54 Greetings, I am a novice, therefore I appreciate your patience. When connecting the multimeter to the fuel pump connection (the white/blue wire and the brown wire), continuity is seen during a continuity test, whether the vehicle is entirely off or the ignition is on. This suggests the possibility of a short circuit. Each component exhibits continuity when individually connected to the chassis, which I presume is standard. Am I accurate in asserting that power and ground should not exhibit continuity? If this is not the case, has anybody encountered this issue and may provide guidance on further steps? Thank you in advance.

It would be beneficial to ascertain which end of the vehicle is emitting the growling sound. There is little use in investigating exhaust noise when it is generated by induction, and vice versa.

I saw a considerable number of objects on my screen after covering a distance of around 200 kilometres yesterday.

Greetings everyone, I need immediate guidance. My 2012 C-Class petrol vehicle has incurred damage as a result of insufficient oil pressure. Preliminary examinations indicate that the intake camshaft has incurred some impairments (although the exhaust camshaft seems to be unaffected), and there is also some damage to the crankshaft. The engine operates with the same level of performance as when it was driven to the garage, but emits a noise reminiscent of a diesel engine from the 1980s. Should we go for rebuilding or replacing? I have received a quotation to substitute an engine with a 68k engine for a total cost of £3,750. The process of rebuilding seems to exhibit significant variations, but, it is understandable that the extent of further damage remains uncertain until more investigation is conducted. The price range for the initial cost is between £2,000 and £2,500. It is worth noting that some individuals may incur this amount as their final bill, while others may exceed the cost of replacement. What is your opinion? I am experiencing significant mental distress as I struggle to choose the most optimal course of action. Any assistance or advice would be much appreciated. Located in southwest London, in case that has any impact on the advise.

How is your experience with the Ferrari?

The little micro switches located on the other side of the PCB from the battery are unmistakable. Proficiency in using a soldering iron is necessary to replace them. There are eBay sellers that specialise in replacing switches, or you might visit an electronics repair shop that has experience in soldering tiny components into circuit boards, such as those seen in televisions.

Unless it is equipped with easy access and a changeable battery, the fob requires cutting along the seam since it is not designed to be opened.

You are not eliminating the flaps, but rather focusing on their function.

Could you please provide a blank ie delte kit, which includes simply an arm stop and gaskets, at a cost of around £15.The flaps were applied to a 640d in order to remove its operation.

Verify the voltage level since the battery may be seeing a decline in performance.

The automobile was sent to the mechanic today due to a complete battery failure. Diagnostic tests completed and passed - new battery installed, hoping for the best!

It's peculiar that the issue only occurs when using my key, and it has only occurred twice since Thursday. I tested my key again earlier, and it worked well.

Thank you! I will ask the garage to do it instead than doing it myself, obviously.

Successfully used my fob without any issues. Car started and drove normally. Planning to get the codes checked to identify any underlying issues and then assess the key. Can a major issue be identified using error codes? Apologies, this task is not often considered a "pink job," but my hubby is now unwell with a cold.

Replaced batteries in key fob on Friday, however it stopped working this morning. Recently attempted to use my fob again, received no message, and the car is functioning well. I really dislike dealing with cars. 🤦🏻‍♀️🤣🤣🤣

Novice here! The car is a 2016 E350 convertible. Recently, I had an occasional "anti-collision inoperative" notice on my key fob, which I learned may be due to a low battery charge. I drove for 10 minutes and the message disappeared. While starting the automobile last Thursday, a message appeared prompting me to consult a workshop without needing to change gears. There were no warning sounds or check engine lights. I drove the car up and down the driveway without any issues, but the message persisted. Utilised husband's key but found no message. I replaced the battery in my key fob, and it worked well until this morning. I received the same message without any warning, but the vehicle didn't start. I then used my husband's key, which had no message, and the car began without any issues. I have since stopped at three locations, restarted the car each time, and everything is working perfectly now. I hope the issue is just with my key. Can I get it inspected at a location other than a Mercedes dealership? Thank you everybody for your assistance!

In a recent episode of Wheeler Dealers titled "Old Aaht Your And," they had chrome spraying done. The findings were quite impressive.👍

Describe the circumstances under which you hear this sound. What is the velocity? Is it a singular sound or recurring?

I am certain that it originates from the B-pillar, likely from the safety belt. Thank you for your assistance. My fender resonates at moderate speeds, not high speeds like plastic fenders.

I have had difficulties in uploading the photographs. However, while the vehicle was still, the pressure gauge indicated a reading of 0 bar. During a brief drive around the block, when the vehicle did not exceed second gear, the pressure gauge registered a value of 0.3 bar. I will do an extended experiment to observe the outcome, while simultaneously operating the machine to capture the data during the process. 👍🏻

The gearbox malfunctioned and requires repair, while the engine mounts, clutch, and fuel mass all need attention. The list of sensors installed on the automobiles has been thoroughly mapped, with just 76,000 units completed. There is no intention of discarding or scrapping them at this point, as shown by the use of the "🤣🤣" emojis. Excellent suggestion, however.

Requesting feedback from anybody who can provide an update. After clearing the fault code, I briefly drove the vehicle (while dropping off my child at school) and decided to take advantage of the cleared fault to see whether there were any pressure readings. Since there was no indication of a malfunction yesterday, the fact that a reading is now being shown leads me to question if the sensor is indeed damaged, since it seems to be able to take a reading. 🤦🏻‍♂️ The engine light did not illuminate throughout the little journey, so I am now uncertain if I should continue driving and wait to see if it illuminates again.

I recently seen the video as well 🤣 and it doesn't seem like a very difficult task. My car is a 2012 model, so it may not be the exact same as the one you're referring to, but it should give you a general sense of what to anticipate. Thank you for your assistance and contribution. I much appreciate it. 👍🏻

It would be logical or rational. If there were a leak, there would be some indication of a reading, even if it is little. Simply investigating the level of difficulty involved in making a change. I have already spent $3,500 on it inside the last several months. One would expect that it will now offer me some respite. It is a manual W204 C250. There is one additional sensor to include in the bill, and it is hoped that there will be no more additions beyond this.