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This is a prevalent issue. The component in question is not a battery, but rather a capacitor/power module situated in the passenger footwell. Below are some links that you may find interesting: Genuine Mercedes-Benz W205 C-Class Voltage Converter Aux Battery A205905341480 | eBay

Appears to be suitable or appropriate in appearance! The vehicle's height is expected to decrease somewhat in the next weeks. I had my vehicle's height reduced by 40mm using Eibach springs around 2 months ago, and I believe that the overall ride quality has much improved. I am currently undecided about using spacers. I came across information stating that VX Lines have a natural height that is 15mm lower than usual. Therefore, by using 40mm springs, you would only get a drop of 25mm.

Impressive. What is the purpose of having functional steering wheel buttons when you can control all functions using voice commands via Siri? I do not use CarPlay, just connect my iPhone over Bluetooth. However, I rely solely on voice commands, specifically addressing Siri. Initiate the playback of the Smith and Sniff podcast or establish a phone call with TheSteeringCommittee. What is the level of sound quality?

Discovered the method to include an image, although remain unaware of the procedure to include self-recorded movies of the automobile in motion. However, if any of you own this knowledge, kindly share it in the comments section.

I managed to resolve the issue with the pedal by identifying that a position sensor wire was missing and not properly attached. It is now functioning perfectly. There is a significant increase in boost/vacuum leakage, resulting in a significant decrease in power. However, this issue can be resolved by thoroughly inspecting all components. Currently, the progress of resolving the issue is at 75% completion. Therefore, this implies that the fuel lines were not correctly installed, the underneath pump was not properly attached, and there were loose wires present, among other issues. However, she has excellent driving skills, with a flawlessly operating engine and a smooth performance. I would want to include many video excerpts, however I am unsure of the method to do so. Thank you for the suggestions and comments, I have gained a substantial amount of knowledge from this website. If anybody is currently doing the similar procedure, please feel free to comment below this page to get assistance or vital information that I acquired throughout this exchange. This was my first diesel engine replacement, since I had previously completed a similar task on the 325-328i-s of the same generation, which were much less complex. Transitioning from a newer generation 4-cylinder engine to the first generation M57 6-cylinder engine was a lengthy and enjoyable experience. There were several fluctuations and a plethora of fresh knowledge that I acquired. However, this is the essence of the matter. Here is what I particularly like about automobiles, namely BMWs. The process of acquiring knowledge, including both successes and failures, is what unifies an automobile community. All those who made contact and provided valuable suggestions. Appreciation is extended to everyone, and I am now going to delight in using my newly acquired engine ❤

Successfully started and operationalized the automobile. However, had an issue with the throttle. Engaging the throttle from 0-50% produces no response, while applying more than 50% results in a little increase in revolutions per minute (rpm) before stabilising at about 1.5k rpm. What may be the underlying reason of this?

Additionally, does anybody own a schematic illustrating the gasoline line or hose for the e46 330d? I am uncertain about the proper placement and routing of the vacuum schematic, and unfortunately, I am unable to verify this information since the bmwfans.info website is now inaccessible.

Once again, I have identified the issue. Only two of them. One issue is that I cannot use the donor vehicles' ews module. I circumvented the issue by inserting a fuse between the two prominent wires. There is still no movement or response whatsoever. Examined the ECU wiring and related components, but found no issues. Considered the idea of reevaluating the voltages and grounds repeatedly, maybe for the hundredth time. Discovered a socket on the engine's ground nut that I had inadvertently left behind when reassembling it after cleaning the ground yesterday. Upon attempting to insert the key, the engine unexpectedly starts. Now I only need to complete the installation of the fuel lines, hoses for vacuum and coolant, organise the engine compartment and proceed with a test drive.

I have successfully connected all the necessary components, or at least I believe I have done so. Rotate the key but there is no response or action. Perceive a distinct clicking sound originating from the engine compartment, accompanied by an absence of any other auditory indications. I have thoroughly cleaned the engine ground. I am still perplexed as to whether the 3 grounds and B+s should be placed anywhere or not. I discovered duplicates of these located behind an alternative interface for the m57 ecu. I am experiencing a lack of ideas and would much appreciate any assistance or suggestions.

Regarding the matter at hand, I am aware that the terminal 30 is expected to be one of the three b+ pins. However, I am currently unaware of the specific pin in question.

I possess wiring diagrams illustrating the pin configurations of both ECUs. However, I am unable to determine the appropriate placement of the voltage supply pins and ground pins. Additionally, on the M57 side, there are pins designated for coolant temperature, oil temperature, and other functions, but I am uncertain about their corresponding locations on the M47 side. It would be greatly appreciated if any of you could provide guidance on the proper allocation of the remaining pins.

Greetings, gentlemen. I am now in the process of replacing the engine from m47n to m57. The body side connection is a more recent kind, often referred to as a single large connector. The m57 ecu uses a compact, outdated generation connection. (Comparison between a 5-connector ECU and a 2-connector ECU) I possess wiring diagrams (WDs) illustrating the pin configurations for both electronic control units (ECUs). However, I had difficulty in determining the appropriate placement for the voltage supply pins and ground pins. Additionally, on the m57 side, there are pins for coolant temperature, oil temperature, and other parameters. However, I am unable to determine their appropriate placement or connection on the m47 side. It would be much appreciated if any of you could provide guidance on the correct placement of the remaining pins.

What is the estimated time commitment for "a bit of coding"? Individuals capable of doing this task will have made substantial investments in costly equipment and developed extensive knowledge and skill, which contributes to the overall expense.

Based on my research, it seems that any repair made to the hybrid components is really a temporary solution. Defective components are being replaced with more defective components, albeit fresh ones that have not yet malfunctioned. Regrettably, it is the modus operandi of Audi. Audi engineers seem to be relying excessively on guesswork.

The automobile has had intermittent use, mostly being stored in a garage. However, it has been exposed to damp conditions on a few occasions over that period.

I purchased a set of these accessories for my SLK. To far, they have shown no signs of rust, even after a period of two years and ongoing. Another method, which was suggested years ago by Television (Rest in Peace), involves using a wire brush to clean the visible parts, inserting the bolts through a box with the threads facing downwards so that just the visible parts are exposed, and then applying a coat of the appropriate colour Hammerite paint using a spray can. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362248505646?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512Xb19c944e7a7f8169c3c708352b24e28a

https://www.check-vehicle-recalls.service.gov.uk/recall-type/vehicle/make/BMW/model/5%20SERIES/year/2017/recalls

Did you really experience a situation where you entered the vehicle, started driving, and then the Check Engine Light (CEL) illuminated? Or was it subsequent to your departure from the dealership? I agree that it is peculiar that the Check Engine Light (CEL) illuminated subsequent to their maintenance activities on that particular component of the system. However, I could not see any mention of the inlet manifold on the recall list. Since they have acknowledged no previous CEL (Check Engine Light) before the repair, I would personally assert my disagreement. What is the reason for their statement that a new manifold is required? Has it been cracked?