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I tried the E85, and it is around 83 percent ethanol. I discovered a website, morepowertuning.com, that has a calculator for mixing, and I learnt that in Washington State, the legislation defines E85 as an ethanol-gasoline blend comprising between 75% and 85% ethanol. During winter, ethanol levels are often reduced to account for lower temperatures. I would unequivocally suggest this to anybody in a similar predicament to mine. I should note that I own the S3/TTs 8V injectors; I am uncertain whether I included it in the list before. Finally, I am very pleased with the significant reduction in fuel costs. I consistently filled my tank with 10 gallons, which cost $70, but this night I filled it completely for about $44. As is often said in the United States...Yippee!

In my opinion, the issue lies not with the gasoline itself, but rather with the octane booster. The active component is MMT, which leaves an orange residue on surfaces. The plugs, O2 sensors, and PCV are unlikely to be beneficial for the performance. I will replace my plugs and operate the E30ish to eliminate the need for octane booster. I will examine them on my next oil change; one may get valuable insights about the vehicle's performance just by inspecting the spark plugs.

A male individual would need to conduct periodic assessments for accuracy management. Approximately once every few months? It remains preferable to incurring additional costs for the octane booster.

I have recently discovered a test that involves mixing a little amount of water with E85 to assess ethanol concentration. I suppose I will adopt a scientific approach to it.

You are quite accurate, sir. Laughing out loud. I have contacted Propel Fuels to request some figures, and I hope their response will be prompt. However, 92 is the maximum octane rating available from a pump in this vicinity. I am fatigued by the sight of orange spark plugs and oxygen sensors resulting from the octane booster.

I had 11 gallons of 92 octane petrol and supplemented the remainder with E85 fuel. If my calculations are accurate, it amounts to 10 gallons of petrol to 5 gallons of ethanol, considering the approximately one gallon of conventional petrol already present in the tank. The final blend should be adjusted from 92 octane to around 96 octane. I need more octane due to my 93 octane KO4 tune.I intend to solicit your insights about potential difficulties particular to my automobile that I may be overlooking, beyond what is available online.

I am interested in your opinions about the combination of E85 with 92 octane premium fuel. I have conducted some research over the last several days, noting the installation of an E85 pump around 10 miles distant, and have resolved to try it out. My mixture is about an E30, and I see a change in the overall smoothness and a reduction in exhaust odour with the high-flow catalytic converter. The Long-Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) is elevated (formerly 4-8%, now over 17%), whereas the Short-Term Fuel Trim (STFT) ranges from -1 to -4% (previously around -8%). Am I being foolish in attributing the prolonged duration to ethanol? I am seeking a superior alternative to octane booster.

I own a German automobile manufactured in 2010, in addition to my Mazda. Unfortunately, despite having driven just 40,000 kilometres, it has accumulated several paint chips. Consequently, I repaired the front end of my Mazda using paint protection film (PPF) and I am now pleased with the outcome. In my opinion, the outcome is contingent upon the prevailing road conditions.

At what point did the phenomenon commence? The probability of encountering inaccurate data is significantly increased when certain events occur, such as acquiring a new vehicle, modifying the car registration number, altering one's name due to marriage or legal name change, or registering several automobiles at distinct locations. In the past, around fifteen to twenty years ago, it was necessary for us to contact the prior insurance providers in order to verify a client's No Claims Bonus (NCB). If we were unable to confirm this information over the phone, we would then request the policy holder to produce written evidence of their NCB. A few years ago, we modified the procedure to conduct NCB confirmation on just a portion of policies, with the aim of reducing the need for human resources and cutting expenses.

Tomorrow, I will get a bore scope in order to visually inspect anything. The valve cover has been removed for replacement, and upon first inspection, no damaged or missing components are visible. However, I will conduct a more thorough examination. Thank you for responding!

Greetings. I just purchased a 2007 Mini with a naturally aspirated 1.6-liter engine and 108,000 miles on it. The vehicle has a 6-speed gearbox. I need a new clutch, so I proceeded to replace it. Additionally, because the sub frame and exhaust were already off, I took the opportunity to replace the oil pan gasket. Discovered several miscellaneous items in the pickup truck. The washer was located inside the oil pump, positioned just under the chain and enclosed by the plastic cover. The car operated well without any audible disturbances, however it failed to move due to a malfunctioning clutch. Upon inspecting the pump and windage tray, I have seen no discernible damage to the pistons or cylinder walls. Uncertain about the earlier repair done on the timing chain, but no visible damage was seen on the guides.

Wouldn't a phone of that vintage lack 3G capability? I have received information indicating that the 3G network would be deactivated in the United Kingdom.

This is applicable to almost every recently released automobile available on the market.

Good morning. A acquaintance of mine has a 2010 ML300 and has experienced a significant increase in resistance while attempting to turn the power-assisted steering (PAS). I have not examined it yet, but he informs me that it is the updated PAS system including an electric motor system instead of a conventional mechanical pump. Has anybody encountered similar experiences? Thank you very much

Certain individuals lack awareness and just continue driving until they come to a halt, oblivious to factors such as unusual sounds or malfunctioning components. My wife resembles that description well.

Wow, that is a significant amount of carbon.

@Mututing You have a few kilometres left to surpass or exceed. Eric Dietz https://media.audiusa.com/en-us/audi-soul/149 https://audiclubna.org/video-of-the-day-nardo-r8-rebuild-a-labor-of-love/

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Essentially, I would want to inquire if it is conceivable for a potential issue with the large end bearing to only become apparent when the dumper is tightened with the belt, and everything seems to be OK while the damper is not under strain. While the sounds typically produced by a defective water pump, compressor, alternator, or damper vary from the ones I am experiencing, is it possible that one of these components may still be the source of my issue?

I attempted to create a video showcasing two distinct scenarios. It operates seamlessly without the need of a belt.

Upon attempting to detach the alternator belt and just rely on the battery, I saw a complete cessation of the noise. Attempted to replace all the pulleys, tensioner, and belt, but did not achieve any improvement. When the belt is installed, the vehicle produces a knocking sound, which is rather peculiar. The water pump, alternator, and crankshaft pulley seem to be in acceptable condition. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts?

If the issue lies in the large end bearings, would I not perceive a corresponding escalation in the ticking sound as the revolutions per minute (rpm) of the engine increase? As the engine speed reaches around 1000rpm, the knocking noise ceases.

Greetings, everybody. As seen by the link provided, my engine has developed a knocking sound when idling, which ceases while accelerating. When I disable the fuel delivery to the fourth cylinder, the sound seems to become more stable. However, I am uncertain if the issue is with the injector itself or whether it indicates a more serious problem. Prior to attempting removal, I would want to inquire whether anybody has already had a similar scenario. Thank you in advance

No, you apply the spray generously, allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes, and then remove any remaining residue. Allow a 12-hour period for the substance to completely seal before operating a vehicle, as it effectively repels dirt. As water comes into contact with it, the water forms into droplets and slides off, carrying away any dirt or debris.

Designed for the purpose of cleaning the undercarriage and wheel wells. I suggest use a robust rigid brush with these products: Subsequently, apply this as a protective coating using an oil-based preservative: