Adv3nture

£132. It is likely accurate, since the dealership managing director is entitled to his substantial yearly Christmas bonus. However, I really lack any understanding!

I did not either; I conducted an online search for it.

I must admit, I was aware of this from my prior Sportages, but I needed to locate the reference in the HEV Car Infotainment System Quick Reference Guide.

Activate the rotary volume control.

Thank you for the information. I was concerned that there may be an issue with it.

Understood, but why does the automatic gearbox remain at 7,000 RPM before shifting up?

I purchased the vehicle in April of this year from a BMW dealership, which had 13,000 miles on the odometer. I identified the acceleration problem very immediately, attributing it to my unfamiliarity with automatic gearbox and my experience of driving a diesel vehicle for the last decade. The vehicle has no fault codes; other from this, it is in excellent condition. Should the automobile exhibit significant tugging at 6000+ RPM, or does the absence of this sensation suggest a malfunction?

This is my first automatic vehicle, and I am uncertain whether I am operating it incorrectly; but, I see that when I accelerate fully, the engine revs to 7000 rpm before shifting up. This seems excessively delayed, since it has exhausted its momentum by 6000, resulting in just noise without tangible benefit. The acceleration seems to be more rapid when I manually shift at about 6000 RPM or when I do not fully depress the accelerator in manual mode. It features a tuning box that has significantly improved performance; yet, the delayed shifting remains an issue regardless of the box's presence.

My acquaintance often advises me to do a regular 'Italian' tune-up—revving the engine vigorously from time to time. I had encountered several problems with a Celica GT4 due to overly cautious driving. Occasional brake failures, turbo malfunctions, etc. Drive her aggressively. 😂 You may eliminate the ingredients and use BP Ultimate only.

In the 1990s, my performance turbo Japanese imports were equipped with a 'turbo timer,' which automatically maintained the engine at idle for a certain duration after the ignition was turned off. This let the turbo to cool gradually instead of abruptly shutting down, which would result in significant heat soak damaging the internals. I am uncertain about the relevance of this technology; an informed individual will arrive shortly! 😃

Is it feasible to purchase only the actuator? I am capable of disassembling and cleaning the EGR valve and purging the cooler core. I am unable to locate one anywhere. TPS is charging £422 including VAT for the whole assembly.

It is rather ironic, really. Disregard my previous remark.Rolling on the floor laughing my ass off:

It is not the N75 solenoid; rather, it pertains to the solenoid associated with EGR cooling flow regulation. I recall that disconnecting and reconnecting it resulted in the generation of EGR error codes.

Acknowledged. My inclination is to rectify issues thoroughly, which is the reason for my post here. I appreciate that these engines often function well and run admirably without modifications; I would not consider a performance remap, since this is my wife's everyday vehicle. I am uncertain if my work has caused this issue or whether it has coincidentally occurred simultaneously and only requires an EGR valve, as indicated by the problem code. To what extent are you familiar with these engines? Could a fault code, such as the one I am receiving, be activated by a poor connection related to any components I have altered? (for instance, the throttle body). What caused the error to remain unresolved but go inactive when disconnecting the throttle body? The throttle body seemed not to operate as a shutdown flap when the engine was turned off with the error code present. It would come to a jarring halt rather than ceasing operation smoothly. The vehicle is now operating well. The glow plug indicator illuminated again yesterday upon her return home; however, when she drove later, the car functioned well and covered around 15 miles without any problems. Does the existence of an EGR fault code, whether active or stored, influence the initiation of a DPF regeneration? The DPF is intact and seems to function well, as there is consistently no soot on the rear of the vehicle, and the fuel efficiency remains between 40-45 mpg, which is satisfactory for a Touran DSG mostly used for local B-road travel.

Indeed, I am also involved in the trade and fully aware of your activities. To be fair, vehicles may sometimes malfunction unexpectedly during maintenance. I am curious if this EGR defect is related to the recent work I performed, namely the removal of the input manifold and disconnection of components such as the throttle body and N75 valve. While attempting to erase the P0403 code with the engine running, I found that it would not clear. Upon disconnecting the throttle body, the fault status changed from active to passive, and it subsequently cleared. However, disconnecting the throttle body resulted in additional faults that could not be cleared until it was reconnected. The P0403 code did not reappear immediately but returned after several brief trips. I have heard that aftermarket EGR valves are subpar, and given the cost of authentic VW units, I am inclined to disable the EGR valve and eliminate the related fault codes via mapping. Unless you can provide a compelling rationale against it?

This may be an unusual request; I hope someone can provide me with guidance. Wife's Touran, 2.0 TDI CR 140 PS with DSG transmission, CFHC engine code. The signs indicative of a thermostat stuck in the open position were evident, as it took an extended period to reach the desired temperature. No fault codes; operated normally otherwise. Yesterday, I replaced the thermostat, a somewhat unpleasant task. I accessed it from above by detaching the intake manifold and throttle assembly, necessitating the removal of the fuel rail. Initially, things seemed to go well. The vehicle was reassembled successfully; however, during the road test, the coil light began to blink, resulting in the activation of limp mode. Returned to the workshop and connected it, resulting in a P0403 error code. I find it quite dubious that this occurred quickly after significant effort, so I re-examined what I had altered and found nothing amiss. I have disconnected and reconnected all the electrical connections. The vehicle traveled around 15 miles without the warning light activating again. I started and stopped the engine many times over this distance, and all functions operated normally. This dawn, the coil light illuminated once again. Inquiring about recommendations from others? Is there a connection between the EGR system and the throttle body linked to the intake manifold? The EGR valve seems to be located in the rear of the engine, far from my work area. Upon researching this code, I saw many discussions on the N18 valve. What is its function, and where is it located? The new thermostat seems to be malfunctioning. The system now reaches temperature more rapidly than before; but, if I reduce the throttle or operate softly for around 30 seconds while the temperature is at mid-range, the coolant temperature decreases somewhat. This indicates that the new thermostat may not be entirely shutting, unless I am overlooking another factor. Does this pertain to the N18?

Was the vehicle operating smoothly prior to being parked? Have you recently purchased it in its current condition? I am seeking to comprehend the historical context of the situation - is it possible that the vehicle was immobilised due to an engine malfunction, and is it conceivable that someone may have previously interfered with its components? In the first article, it is said that the chain seems to be fresh. However, there is also uncertainty over whether it has been disassembled before.

What is the car's history - did it experience a sudden loss of power while driving, or was it parked and just failed to start?

Indeed... You are only repeating the statements made by Fred. I get the main idea and I am now awaiting assistance.

Yes, I may have unintentionally given that impression. My apologies! The car is now causing me extreme frustration.

Is there anyone available?

The car is causing me extreme frustration and I am gradually losing hope with it. After the scan, the engine mount was changed, but it did not have any effect.

Greetings everyone, I appreciate your responses. The plugs are desiccated yet coated with carbon deposits. Yesterday, I performed a VCDS scan and will now provide the results.