Adv3nture

To my star partner, I am eternally grateful.

y, I'd greatly appreciate it if you could take a look at the three images I've attached. Are you aware which of the three exhaust gas temperature sensors is responsible for the [260100 Error]? Please tell me which one it is. Thank you, my friend.

To the folks who own BMWs, My ride is a BMW 520D F10 Saloon from 2010. It has been a very dependable vehicle for the eight years that I have owned it. This is the error message I received when I checked the car's code recently: The Exhaust-Gas Temperature Sensor After the EGR Cooler Is Signalling an Open or Short Circuit to B+, Representing Error Code 260100 When it comes to automobiles, I lack technical expertise. I would be eternally grateful if someone in the community could shed any light on this matter for me. Can you tell me which sensor this issue is pointing to? How do I locate it? There are a few YouTube posts that mention sensors, but they all seem to be different. The problem persists despite my replacement of the part located on the right side of the EGR cooler (part number: 1362 094142 02 / 7804177-02) in the front of the bay. It is said to be the one on the left side, underneath the engine bay, just next to the exhaust/DPF. Rumour has it that it's located behind the exhaust. Give me your thoughts on this, if you don't mind. In anticipation, I'm really appreciative of your support.

Calliper binding is typically the issue in most cases.

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Recently completed a four-wheel alignment, and the specifications indicate that everything is satisfactory. Is a steering adaption necessary for the vehicle's electronics to acknowledge the altered steering angle? The steering wheel remains slightly misaligned. Thank you very much

The 3LT is indisputably superior, however specifications are crucial based on individual preferences.

Mine included the cushioned cargo lining. I would like the rubber cargo tray. We had OEM rubber cargo boxes in both our 2023 CX-5 and our previous 2016 CX-5, which we no longer own. They were well-fitted and well constructed.

I am unable to get any heat from the car's fan heater. Steam is emanating from the heater pipes.

I purged the whole system. Replaced the coolant reservoir along with a new top. Regrettably, I am now seeing significant pressurised steam emanating from the bleed valve located atop the engine. I am unable to stop it, thus I guess it is exhaust gases. I believe the high-gain sensors are compromised, which caused the coolant tank to rupture first. Strangely, the temperature gauge is functioning normally. Could this maybe be the consequence of a clogged thermostat in the lower hose exiting the radiator? I believe that is only optimistic speculation. It may be time to consider acquiring another economical 2006 Range Rover 4.4 HSE 4.4L. It would not be worthwhile to hire a business for this task, and I am apprehensive about the magnitude of the project to be completed on weekends.

It did not overheat after my temporary repair on the expansion tank. Nevertheless, I used the heater at maximum capacity for the duration of 60 miles. The temperature was very high, although it is summer. The temperature gauge remained at the midpoint.

Last weekend, I drove my rover up a mountain, and the expansion tank fractured. There seems to be pressure in the coolant. Is the head gasket unequivocally failing? No water present in oil or the reverse. I reassembled the expansion tank, applied head gasket sealer, and bled the system. I drove it for 60 miles thereafter; towards the end, the adhesive began to deteriorate on the expansion tank repair, and coolant was leaking from the fracture in the tank once again. It operated smoothly. I have purchased a new expansion tank. Is it possible that I have temporarily resolved the problem, or may there be other factors causing the overheating other from the head gasket?

Regrettably, the only definitive method to ascertain the situation is to remove the sump.

nice car

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