Adv3nture

Mine included the cushioned cargo lining. I would like the rubber cargo tray. We had OEM rubber cargo boxes in both our 2023 CX-5 and our previous 2016 CX-5, which we no longer own. They were well-fitted and well constructed.

I am unable to get any heat from the car's fan heater. Steam is emanating from the heater pipes.

I purged the whole system. Replaced the coolant reservoir along with a new top. Regrettably, I am now seeing significant pressurised steam emanating from the bleed valve located atop the engine. I am unable to stop it, thus I guess it is exhaust gases. I believe the high-gain sensors are compromised, which caused the coolant tank to rupture first. Strangely, the temperature gauge is functioning normally. Could this maybe be the consequence of a clogged thermostat in the lower hose exiting the radiator? I believe that is only optimistic speculation. It may be time to consider acquiring another economical 2006 Range Rover 4.4 HSE 4.4L. It would not be worthwhile to hire a business for this task, and I am apprehensive about the magnitude of the project to be completed on weekends.

It did not overheat after my temporary repair on the expansion tank. Nevertheless, I used the heater at maximum capacity for the duration of 60 miles. The temperature was very high, although it is summer. The temperature gauge remained at the midpoint.

Last weekend, I drove my rover up a mountain, and the expansion tank fractured. There seems to be pressure in the coolant. Is the head gasket unequivocally failing? No water present in oil or the reverse. I reassembled the expansion tank, applied head gasket sealer, and bled the system. I drove it for 60 miles thereafter; towards the end, the adhesive began to deteriorate on the expansion tank repair, and coolant was leaking from the fracture in the tank once again. It operated smoothly. I have purchased a new expansion tank. Is it possible that I have temporarily resolved the problem, or may there be other factors causing the overheating other from the head gasket?

Regrettably, the only definitive method to ascertain the situation is to remove the sump.

nice car

😊

Thank you.

The automobile had initially sagged on both sides, so I scheduled an appointment. Prior to the appointment, the automobile appeared to be functioning well, although I took it to the shop nonetheless. They found no issues, so I proceeded on my way. A few days later, the car malfunctioned again, necessitating flatbed transportation to the mechanic for inspection of the sagging issue. The assessment indicated that the compressor required replacement. The task was completed, and upon retrieving the vehicle, the height was satisfactory.After driving 5 miles, the chassis alert illuminated, prompting me to exit the vehicle for inspection. I observed that it had ascended significantly on the passenger side. The car has been parked since and remains at that elevation. Additionally, prior to my purchase, new airbags were installed on both sides four months ago.

Did the garage fail to identify any more issues during the initial inspection of the vehicle?

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Hello, I experienced sagging on both rear corners and took the vehicle to the mechanic. A new compressor was installed. Travelled 5 miles after retrieving the vehicle, at which point the chassis warning illuminated. Exited the vehicle, observing that the passenger side's left rear and front are significantly elevated, while the driver's side front and rear are notably lowered. What actions has the garage failed to undertake that resulted in this situation?The garage has been closed for the past three days, so I will return tomorrow. Thank you

A few matters. This is merely my perspective. The LED in the mirror would likely consume approximately 20mA. The measurement of 170mA suggests that an additional load is also using current. Despite a 170mA draw, I anticipate it would require several days to deplete a completely charged battery in optimal condition. I cannot identify any rationale for the circumstance you outlined regarding the key to be the source of the issue you are experiencing. Affirmative. In my modest opinion, I would suspect the OCP controller; nevertheless, substituting it with a verified functional unit is the only method to ascertain certainty. That constitutes the extent of my understanding, but I hope it is resolved promptly and economically.

Greetings everyone, I am a new and first-time owner of a Mercedes, having transitioned from a BMW F11. I just acquired an S213 E350d (AGM Line Premium) and am enjoying the torque from the Stage 1 remap and the digital cockpit; however, I am very concerned about the potential damage to my 20" turbine alloys (is this a matter of when, not if?). One week into ownership, I encountered many errors: - B000211 - intermittent - Squib for driver’s airbag stage 2. Is it advisable to repair the squib component or is replacement the superior option? - The message "Mercedes me connect service limited" appeared when the OBD2 was connected; should I be concerned? I have resolved the issue using the iCarsoft for the time being. For those knowledgeable, is the airbag squib problem costly or feasible for a DIY approach (e.g., after substituting it with a secondhand unit from eBay), or will the new squib need dealer coding via STAR, etc.?