Inspirli
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Everything posted by Inspirli
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I quickly topped up the battery on the way home yesterday. It was vital. It just took ten minutes, and I could have been gone in five if I had preconditioned first (average 145 KW). Although many may not be concerned about this, it is likely the primary "deficit" of the E-Niro.
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Vehicle comparison: I've decided to sell my 21 E-Niro and lease a Skoda Elroq instead. I am quite satisfied with the E-Niro. My first electric vehicle; it bolstered my faith in EVs to an unprecedented degree; now I just cannot fathom reverting to ICE. My '2' spec E-Niro was lacking in conveniences and quickness when it came to charging, so I upgraded because I wanted a new automobile. The Elroq was offered at a steep discount for a three-year lease! less expensive than the EV3. My initial thoughts on the Elroq are that it is an exceptionally pleasant vehicle to use; on these chilly mornings, I am particularly fond of the car's heated steering wheel and seats. I did purchase the Sportsline, but the 'kit' is great overall. The consumption of "fuel" has been the sole source of disappointment. The Elroq has a larger battery, but I'm not experiencing any more range, and I could possibly be seeing a little decrease. In the summer, my E-Niro's typical electricity consumption was about 4.5 to 5.0 miles/KWh, and it consistently achieved 320 miles on a full charge. In the winter, though, it dropped to roughly 4.0 to 4.5 miles/KWh, and on long, cold highway drives, it dropped to 3.5 miles/KWh or lower. With regular winter driving, I have not been able to improve the Elroq's performance to greater than 3.5 thus yet. Okay, so the heavier larger battery won't help, the 20-inch wheels won't either (and they're worse on potholes than the Kia), and I might end up utilising the heated seats and battery pre-conditioner more often than before. In any case, I've come to understand that we ought to be really appreciative of the E-Niro efficiency and the precise range predictor.
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What a hardship. If your dealership has denied rebuilding the engine, it is dishonest. At such a low mileage, why was a rebuild necessary? Was it proper to rebuild? The conrods failed, therefore I was wondering if there was a problem that required the rebuild. If Kia knew anything was wrong, they wouldn't have sold an almost new vehicle to another garage instead of a customer. Have you contacted Kia's customer service department to enquire about their perspective?
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I will not purchase an electric vehicle until it features a Toyota solid-state battery, and my 1990 analogue meters continue to function flawlessly.
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Does 20,000 refer to miles or price?
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I purchased a pre-owned 2019 Kia Stonic 1.0 T-GDi (118 horsepower) 3 ISG. While driving on the interstate at approximately 60 mph, the vehicle occasionally exhibits difficulty in accelerating, even when the throttle is completely engaged, particularly while ascending inclines or across bridges. Has anyone else encountered this problem?
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Today was the day for the Ministry of Transport inspection.
Inspirli replied to InsigDriv3's topic in General
It is always reassuring to receive a clean bill of health. I hope these Insignia Bs do not present numerous issues as they age. My vehicle is now seven years old and has yet to receive an advisory, let alone a failure. I recently conducted a major service using as many Vauxhall components as possible. -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397209405259?_skw=e63+amg+estate&itmmeta=01K8Y2YE9CX7JQSNYJC1V2XFZ6&hash=item5c7b86874b:g:uBAAAeSwv7ho~-NX&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ftSshJxTgc2RJ4IAHRx8ovyAX0stc0dEhU6KQ24uiFPUh2yJ/9vK5yurd/pLOKVEh68FD8qVzzOD/u0k4wa2yt9uvHWK3Fa3gUrhtg5x4eY6lafuny5NwY0e+EAK2GNqh9ph8lNcAZuzh9H3RwRkq2jFunYgH4ppGrg0EAfN8Q4WEVzBnVpyiPpKPuIf2dNLlpXcVZ2MaUnMcrqi3lWpJwksQ3pEIgtE+FQYbAWRMl+Mqeh75/lAfj1f6iPmZIoqQ=|tkp:Bk9SR_Lk-cLHZg&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X4e893185f6903a8a1c46a3085190915d&subId2=15
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397197431069?_skw=e63+amg+estate&itmmeta=01K8NEJWQ1RGA4JM56QF8MSZAS&hash=item5c7acfd11d:g:uBAAAeSwv7ho~-NX&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1d1nkFBPwhy43bctbrsLFscVk8c8GZ6Ey3Vxz39H4VBlvBBQBWi1KeP4lq8vqea8Iab1mFuBsma8zdvANzuNl/4YVNlfwU6ZUXWBlfKhory5inBg2BzmJEhcB/CUYCXnUJcNx0RyqriUL8vtOtrpj2UPGJ15BasqeMBz+ZUSe0rrDJa75GvOB/Lnlhn9eZhGgpkB2s7OIzcmj1Aj56sMym9I/bNeV2BQvjKF88mXRSfZfuslf5H7aq7ZHpalKu8Ga4GhsgyNm7r58bEOS4vV/iT+lM81cxK7OwhdkHlIs3SSA==|tkp:Bk9SR9zLy67FZg&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X2ea9405ef47c85311967d0e1d7a2343b&subId2=15
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Contemplating the feasibility of this concept. And it's already on 100K miles. The rear appears organised, ha ha!
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On my F36, the hardwire is connected to the positive terminal of the battery, while the negative is attached to the chassis in the boot. I connect the charger in the driveway once a week for about half a day; otherwise, due to my limited excursions, a new battery lasts just one year.
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Ensure the jump point connection is secure.
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If the issue arose after you had been driving it, it is plausible that it functioned properly following the component change. Was the ride height satisfactory upon your collection of the vehicle?
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The effective functioning of the compressor has uncovered an additional problem. I suspect a malfunction with the solenoid or level sensor on the high side.
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Regrettably, it was a 2.3 diesel. That was rather ironic, anticipating that some could presume it was the more potent version. The XR3. That is self-evident. The SAAB 3 Litre V6 was undoubtedly the finest automobile I have ever had; yet, it had to be relinquished due to the corrosion of the power steering pipes at 11 years of age, which resulted in fluid dispersion throughout the engine compartment. The cost to rectify the issue would have exceeded double the vehicle's worth. Ford Mondeo. The name encapsulates the essence. Volvo V50. This was the LUX variant (highest specification). This was 11 years more recent than the SAAB, although it was inferior in comparison. I selected the EV3 mostly because of its mileage, warranty, and delivery prior to April. After doing a test drive, I concluded that I had finally discovered a vehicle capable of rivalling the SAAB.
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The spouse's vehicle has both of these features: The high and low beam is permanently disabled since it continuously alternates between dip and main. The lane departure system is deactivated while not on primary roadways due to its excessive sensitivity. Attempting to activate or deactivate them while driving is perilous, since it necessitates engaging with the dashboard screen and navigating through around four or five menus. Can they be easily activated or deactivated on the EV3?
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As already said. Advice If you want to retain the vehicle long-term, get a BMW-specific scanner; it will be beneficial and save you considerable expenses.
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2011 E350 attempting to engage park when in motion at a low speed.
Inspirli replied to AmericaMonster's topic in General
My vehicle is a 2015 S212, which has the capability of self-parking; however, my previous 20120 S212 lacked this technology. -
Do you believe a tank and cap acquired directly from BMW? Are the aluminium options effective, or should they be avoided?
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The first occurrence occurred when I was stopped, and today it happened during very slow traffic; so, I can only infer that it occurs while idling. It is conceivable that the fan is malfunctioning (I have tested it and confirmed that the fuse is operational) or that the thermostat is defective.
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I conducted the test, which yielded a negative result for HGF; but, when opening the bonnet, I discovered that the cap was missing, likely dislodged by the pressure. Is the pressure causing the caps to dislodge for any reason?
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I will conduct a test.
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I am aware that it is located near the thermostat. I do not exhibit any apparent indications of HGF or thermostat malfunction. Temperatures are OK; heaters function as anticipated. No smoke from the exhaust; oil is crystal clean; vehicle operates smoothly. I plan to replace the valve cover gasket during Christmas, as it appears to be deteriorating and likely has never been replaced (evidenced by some severely rusted bolts). Is there anything I can visually inspect while performing this task, given that I lack testing equipment? If I cannot identify any issues, it will necessitate a visit to the garage. Any suggestions? This one has me perplexed.
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I purchased a 2008 Mini Cooper S in August. I immediately saw that the coolant was depleting, so I purchased a new tank from Febi Bilstein. For a few months, everything was satisfactory; levels were monitored biweekly. I was waiting for a buddy with the vehicle idling when an excessive amount of steam emanated from the hood. Upon inspection, I discovered the tank was empty and the cap had been detached. Upon inspection, the metal valve was misaligned; I purchased a new cap that is far more robust and well-constructed. It is hoped that the issue lies with the cap; nevertheless, there is a suspicion of a leak, despite the absence of coolant. Nonetheless, there are indications of dried coolant stains present: